How much should I shim my T-5's front bearing retainer?

[180 Out]

I'm finally installing a T-5 in my kids' '65 that I bought last June. So yesterday I was shimming the front bearing retainer for correct input shaft preload. With a .036" shim pack, there was no wobble to the input shaft and it there was slight drag when rotating it. With .034" there was still no wobble and there was still some drag, but slightly less than with the .036. With .032" there was the slightest wobble -- you can feel it but you really can't see it -- and much, much less drag.

So which shim pack should I go with? The guy on my Hanlon how-to videotape seems to be saying to zero out the endplay and to have a slight drag on rotation. My problem is I think I have zero endplay with all three packs, and I like the idea of the lighter drag that I get with the .032. Should I go with noticeable drag, and no wobble (.034) or slight drag and slight wobble (.032)? What do you T-5 experts say?

 

[Rusty67]

What year car did the T5 come out of ? I'll try and look up the spec for you.

 

[180 Out]

Thanks for the offer. It's from a '95 Mustang GT.

 

[Glen's 1965 5.0]

shim

I would go with the .032 shim then. Don't worry about some wobble. With the 15 roller bearings in the input there should be some. The tip of the input will be in a bearing in the crank for support.

 

[nmk_61802]

It doesn't sound like you are measuring endplay. My understanding of endplay is the distance that the input shaft could move straight in and out, not side to side. Endplay should be zero. Also, a 95 T5 will not fit into a 65, actually, I shouldn't say that, it will fit, but the longer input shaft and bellhouse will relocate the shifter from it's stock location.

See here for reference:

http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2000/09/t5swap/index.php

 

[180 Out]

Thanks for that link. Lots of good T-5 swap stuff there.

To measure endplay correctly you need to attach a dial indicator to the tailshaft housing. This is most easily accomplished with a magnetic base and a strip of iron or steel bolted to one of the holes for the shifter plate, because there's no ferrous material on the tranny housing itself. You give the tailshaft a whack with a dead blow hammer, then set the indicator on the tailshaft and zero it out. Then you smack the input shaft with your palm; the dial indicator will then show you your endplay.

I don't have a dial indicator, so that's why I'm trying to sneak up on the correct endplay with the .036, .034, and .032 shim packs. That's why I'm asking the question, basically, what do you guys who HAVE used a dial indicator, or who otherwise have a lot of hands on experience with rebuilding T-5's, feel when your endplay is correct. Do you feel noticeable drag with no wobble, or do you feel the slightest wobble and noticeably less drag?

I'm obviously within .004" of perfect, actually plus-or-minus .002", and I'm just trying to figure out which form of perfect is MOST perfect -- really tight, not as tight and no wobble, or noticebly less tight and the slightest wobble. It seems like you can get obsessive beyond all reason with clearances in the range of .002" and parts robust enough to handle 300 lb-ft and 150 mph -- a piece of paper is .004" thick -- but as long as the trans is out of the car and I have the shims to choose from, why not?

As far as running a '95 T-5 in a '65, I'm using the '65 bell with a spacer and a short input shaft. It's my understanding that the cases of the '95 and '93 Mustang T-5's are no different; it's just the bell that's different. So my setup will work.

 

[Rusty67]

This information came out of AllData for a 95 mustang with a 5.0 and a manual trans, assembly instruction section. I think they are calling the input shaft the clutch shaft but I could be wrong. I'm rather certain this is what you are looking for. AllData wont let me copy and paste and I'm too lazy to retype it but here is a screen shot:

 

[180 Out]

Thanks for the attachment.

That's the THIRD method I've seen now, on how to shim the bearing retainer on a T-5. If I follow, you're supposed to turn your tranny on end, with the tail end up, and with the rear seal removed. You rotate both the output shaft and the input shaft. Then you put a dial indicator on the output shaft and zero it. Somehow you pull up on the output shaft and measure the endplay. You take that measurement and ADD .004", and that's your front bearing retainer shim pack, because you need a PRE-load of .001-.004.

Sounds to me like tight is right; that in my case I'd better go with the .034 pack: drag you can feel and NO WOBBLE.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Hack]

Thanks for the attachment.

That's the THIRD method I've seen now, on how to shim the bearing retainer on a T-5. If I follow, you're supposed to turn your tranny on end, with the tail end up, and with the rear seal removed. You rotate both the output shaft and the input shaft. Then you put a dial indicator on the output shaft and zero it. Somehow you pull up on the output shaft and measure the endplay. You take that measurement and ADD .004", and that's your front bearing retainer shim pack, because you need a PRE-load of .001-.004.

Sounds to me like tight is right; that in my case I'd better go with the .034 pack: drag you can feel and NO WOBBLE.

Thanks for the help.

I realize it's a holiday now, but why not call Hanlon Motorsports? You bought their video. I'm sure they would be happy to give you advice. I'd like to hear what they have to say.

 

[67efivert]

do u still have the 95 input shaft and is it in good shape if so do u want to sell it let me know thanks

 

[180 Out]

I think I better hang onto it in case I want to go with the late model bell someday.