How to: Disable Skip Shift

If you are running the car without an aftermarket tune, but still want to get rid of the skip shift, all you have to do is disconnect the electrical connector going to the skip shift solenoid.

You can see exactly where it is, as shown on the following PDF:
Ford Service Manuals - IN-VEHICLE REPAIR

I disconnected the connector today, and it works as advertised. No skip shift. No MIL. The skip shift message still comes up on the tach, but the shifter goes right into 2nd...no lockout.

I tried getting pictures, but with the solenoid and connector towards the top of the tranny, it was impossible. To locate the connector/solenoid, simply locate the fill bolt on the passenger's side of the tranny, and the connector/solenoid are directly above it.

You can see in the picture below, I taped and zip-tied the disconnected connector to a near by wire. I taped the connector end itself to keep dirt and road grime out, so that if I should ever need to reconnect it, I can.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0735.jpg
    IMG_0735.jpg
    190.5 KB · Views: 817
  • Sponsors (?)


Skip Shift Bypass

Leaving the connector unplugged will throw a code, specifically DTC P0803.

Installing a 50watt 6ohm resistor across the unplugged connector will provide the same electrical load as the skip shift solenoid and will fake out the computer (no codes)

The resistor is the same used to place a parallel load on LED lights (see picture). They are less than 6 dollars on eBay. I soldered a few thin solid wires to the resistor ends, stuck the wires into the connector and shrink wrapped the whole thing to the end of the wiring harness. The light still illuminates but the lockout no longer interrupts shifts.
 

Attachments

  • resistor pic.jpg
    resistor pic.jpg
    54.9 KB · Views: 490
Leaving the connector unplugged will throw a code, specifically DTC P0803.

Installing a 50watt 6ohm resistor across the unplugged connector will provide the same electrical load as the skip shift solenoid and will fake out the computer (no codes)

The resistor is the same used to place a parallel load on LED lights (see picture). They are less than 6 dollars on eBay. I soldered a few thin solid wires to the resistor ends, stuck the wires into the connector and shrink wrapped the whole thing to the end of the wiring harness. The light still illuminates but the lockout no longer interrupts shifts.

I've yet to have a MIL. I'd think if I were to get one, it would've shown up by now.