Engine how to eliminate hot temps in upper intake

mattys91gt

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Feb 3, 2022
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Plymouth Massachusetts
so it's a 91 mustang gt mostly stock just a flowmaster 2.5 with 40 series mufflers timing is a 10 the smog pump is bypassed using a shorter belt and brand new EGR and the emissions on the strut tower I think its all working right.what can I do to lower temps? I was reading about the coolant lines going to the EGR not sure if that would help
 
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It all heat soaks eveentually.

I have no coolant lines, no EGR, a phenolic spacer and I can assure you after some time driving around everything in the engine bay is blisteringly hot. It's not to much isolating components that will help, but getting better airflow through the engine bay. A cowl hood may help with this in terms of giving rising heat an easier path to escape. Ceramic coated headers is another thing that may help.
 
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The only time a hot intake manifold is going to have any real impact on air charge temps is slow speed (rpm) idle type conditions. Once engine rpm's get up the air velocity through the intake runner does not have much time at all to absorb intake runner temps. At 4,000 rpms and up the air temp entering the cylinder head will be close to ambient, assuming you are not pulling air right from the radiator or near exhaust manifold/header.
 
thank you both of you and I bolted on a 83 gt hood scoop going backwards but haven't cut the hood the 83 hood had a big hole for the carb I just wanna let heat out here's a few pictures I don't want a giant hole maybe a smaller square in the middle not sure was looking for ideas
 

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A cowl hood may help with this in terms of giving rising heat an easier path to escape.
The truck in the picture had a louvered hood when I bought it.... This truck never overheated in the 12 years I had it.. 454/Turbo400..... I give most of the credit to the hood letting out the heat....
DSCF0226.JPG
 
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Louvers were used in model A and T hoods to allow heat to escape the really small engine compartments, unlike scoops which uses air flow to cram air in, but didn't really work all that well do to air flow over flat surfaces and 'packing' which occurs when you can't cram air into an area that is not moving are out (or inadequate air flow), a louver, basically a scoop backwards, air flow over the flat surface was pushed up slightly created a 'low pressure ' area at the opening of the louver, the slightly higher pressure inside the enclosed engine compartment will flow out the louver because of the low pressure at the opening.
Now the hood scoop mounted backwards (open at the back) will do the same thing, now the issue will be the cowel, there would be the possibility of engine compartment heated air entering the interior when the vent is open.
In order to get air out is most times not just a matter of cutting a hole someplace, the factory designs the engine compartment air to exit out the bottom, now look at the new nascar hoods you will notice openings at the side towards the front of the hood, if I were to move hot air from the engine compartment, that is where I would install louvers or reliefs to remove the hot air.
Now while I think the reversed scoop will do the job I think the hole(s) need to be as far forward on the hood as possible,
Just some thoughts from someone with an idiot light and too much coffee.
 
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You got me on that one, I could not remember the name of the vents ( old age) and googled it and it gave me the wrong name,,,, LOL....
I figured it was auto incorrect that struck.
(The velour is gone from my other project and pics will follow after the glass is in.)
I do not remember er seeing louvers on a Fox or SN-95 Mustang. I’m not sure if it is a style thing or no water on EFI wiring thing.
One of the newer versions often pulled hood pins out at the track, so it might be worth a try.
 
thank you both of you and I bolted on a 83 gt hood scoop going backwards but haven't cut the hood the 83 hood had a big hole for the carb I just wanna let heat out here's a few pictures I don't want a giant hole maybe a smaller square in the middle not sure was looking for ideas
I would cut a 2" x 8" hole here if it fits between the braces (2x6 if it doesn't fit). Remember measure 3 or 4 times, cut once.
Hood hole.jpg
The nicest finished product might be a 2" hole saw opening on each end and then connect the two holes to make an oval. That should be enough opening to vent some heat. Overall it will not look bad either with the hood open. Center the hole on the overall hood width can also make it look like it is supposed to be there and not some hack job.
 
I would cut a 2" x 8" hole here if it fits between the braces (2x6 if it doesn't fit). Remember measure 3 or 4 times, cut once.
Hood hole.jpg
The nicest finished product might be a 2" hole saw opening on each end and then connect the two holes to make an oval. That should be enough opening to vent some heat. Overall it will not look bad either with the hood open. Center the hole on the overall hood width can also make it look like it is supposed to be there and not some hack job.
u think cutting out the middle would be ok and what can I use to glue the supports back to the hood
 
My current hood has no braces, no issues either ...

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The next one I am working on ...

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The "Y" part of your stock brace will be removed.

As far as the "glue", it is not really glue, just some foam stuck in that helps keep the vibrations between the skin and frame from happening. It can help some oil canning with the skin as well. Some foam strip wedged in between the frame and skin should do the same.
 
My current hood has no braces, no issues either ...

20200514_213051.jpg 20200903_103045_HDR.jpg

The next one I am working on ...

20220423_175404.jpg 20220423_202623.jpg 20220423_202653.jpg

The "Y" part of your stock brace will be removed.

As far as the "glue", it is not really glue, just some foam stuck in that helps keep the vibrations between the skin and frame from happening. It can help some oil canning with the skin as well. Some foam strip wedged in between the frame and skin should do the same.
so cut the brace off and make a bigger square cut out
 
the whole thing is loose so it won't matter if it comes off do you think a 2x8 I'll show u what the 83 hood looks like that the scoop came off of
 

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That opening looks like the factory 82 GT hood opening under the scoop looked like. At the end of the day you could cut an opening any shape you want. Removing the center area bracing should be fine if you want to.
 
That opening looks like the factory 82 GT hood opening under the scoop looked like. At the end of the day you could cut an opening any shape you want. Removing the center area bracing should be fine if you want to.
that's the hood it came off of would that be to big of a hole for EFI I know that car was carb
 

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That factory hole was never functional. I think it was for clearance of the air cleaner (maybe). In your pic it looks like there is a lip around the edge to help keep some water out of the engine bay. That is the main reason I suggested something small for an opening. If you are only trying to vent some heat, you don't need much for an opening.
 
That factory hole was never functional. I think it was for clearance of the air cleaner (maybe). In your pic it looks like there is a lip around the edge to help keep some water out of the engine bay. That is the main reason I suggested something small for an opening. If you are only trying to vent some heat, you don't need much for an opening.
ya just trying to lose some heat and I'm going try tomorrow I'm not sure if it was you that told me to use the hole saw but should the brace stay or go the glue is melted away so it doesn't hold the brace