how to get ground off?
- Thread starter 91whiteponygt
- Start date
dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
take a ratchet with a long extension and a half inch socket and take it off....and than put it somewhere else? or are you just replacing it because its bad? i would just use some 10-12 gauge wire and some crimp on eye terminals. use a sheet metal screw and screw it into the firewall and than bolt it to the back of the intake.
WhiteFizzo
Founding Member
You may want to check other grounds as well. I helped my friend swap out the waterpump out on his 5.0. After we were done, when he turned the lights on all his guages went nuts. After searching for a couple hours, we located the cluprit. It was a ground wire located near the battery.
Some thoughts about grounds.
A ground needs a clean & shiny bare metal place to connect to to work properly.
You can never have too many good grounds or too much money for go fast goodies...
Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computers.
1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is
the power ground for the starter & alternator.
2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the
intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or
loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor
clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs
a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis
ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side
with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side
handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that
comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to
it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid
fumes from the battery. It is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long
by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire. You'll find it up next to
the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness
4.) All the sensors have a common separate ground. This
includes the TPS, ACT, EGE, BAP, & VSS sensors.
5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground)
coming from the computer. This is different and separate from
the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal
on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out
under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on
back of the cylinder head.
6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around
the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module
ground terminates inside the computer.
7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and
runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.
8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from
the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it
controls internally.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103#volt
for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds
Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver.
If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.
The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot
and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops
from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop
between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively
reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.
A ground needs a clean & shiny bare metal place to connect to to work properly.
You can never have too many good grounds or too much money for go fast goodies...
Grounds are important to any electrical system, and especially to computers.
1.) The main power ground is from engine block to battery: it is
the power ground for the starter & alternator.
2.) The secondary power ground is between the back of the
intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It is often missing or
loose. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor
clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
Any car that has a 3G or high output current alternator needs
a 4 gauge ground wire running from the block to the chassis
ground where the battery pigtail ground connects.
The 3G has a 130 amp capacity, so you wire the power side
with 4 gauge wire. It stands to reason that the ground side
handles just a much current, so it needs to be 4 gauge too.
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
3.) The computer has its own dedicated power ground that
comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to
it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid
fumes from the battery. It is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long
by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire. You'll find it up next to
the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness
4.) All the sensors have a common separate ground. This
includes the TPS, ACT, EGE, BAP, & VSS sensors.
5.) The O2 sensor heaters have their own ground (HEGO ground)
coming from the computer. This is different and separate from
the O2 sensor ground. It is an orange wire with a ring terminal
on it. It is located in the fuel injector wiring harness and comes out
under the throttle body. It gets connected to a manifold or bolt on
back of the cylinder head.
6.) The TFI module has 2 grounds: one for the foil shield around
the wires and another for the module itself. The TFI module
ground terminates inside the computer.
7.) The computer takes the shield ground for the TFI module and
runs it from pin 20 to the chassis near the computer.
8.) The computer's main power ground (the one that comes from
the battery ground wire) uses pins 40 & 60 for all the things it
controls internally.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103#volt
for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds
Extra grounds are like the reserve parachute for a sky diver.
If the main one fails, there is always your reserve.
The best plan is to have all the grounds meet at one central spot
and connect together there. That eliminates any voltage drops
from grounds connected at different places. A voltage drop
between the computer ground and the alternator power ground will effectively
reduce the voltage available to the computer by the amount of the drop.
Attachments
dragnazz5.0
My "0" key d0esn't w0rk, s0 I have t0 use the zer0
get one those ground thing that ricers use that have like 10 grounds coming off the negative battery terminal and go all over the place. i know a guy that has one on his stock crx. it has i think 8 ground that are all 4 gauge if not bigger wire. hes got them running to everything from the throttle body to the strut mounts. kinda rediculous if you ask me...but yes the more "good" grounds the better.
srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
The "Ricer thing" you are refering to is called a Junction block or power terminal. Typically they are 1 in and 2 or 4 out
These come in handy when you are trying to get enough room on your starter solenoid...
These come in handy when you are trying to get enough room on your starter solenoid...
