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How to make solid lifter for checking pushrod length..

  • Thread starter Thread starter jd-hart
  • Start date Start date Jul 28, 2008

jd-hart

Member
Jun 29, 2005
124
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Greensboro, NC
Jul 28, 2008
#1
  • Jul 28, 2008
  • #1
I know there are a ton of posts about this but I can't find one that explains exactly how to make a solid lifter out of a hydraulic one. Pics would be cool.....

Or is is possible to buy a solid lifter for a Ford that would have the same dimensions?

I know this is suppose to be an easy check, but this solid lifter thing is confusing me...

I don't have an extra lifter around, so I was just going to buy a replacement one at Advance Auto and take that one apart. Is that okay to do? Or should I try and get a Ford one from the dealership?

Thanks for the help....
 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end
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#2
  • Jul 28, 2008
  • #2
I'm pretty sure my buddy took an old one apart and filled it with washers...i'll ask him for sure and post back.


EDIT:

Ok, he said you basically gut the stock lifter...there's a little C clip snap ring kind of deal that holds it together, you take that out and there's a plunger and spring setup inside. He said take the plunger out and stack enough washers inside so that when you put the spring back in it's completely solid.
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
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#3
  • Jul 28, 2008
  • #3
If you have access to a welder, you could also tack weld the plunger in place. Of course this method is permanent, so make sure you have no future plans for this lifter, except for checking pushrod length.
 

jd-hart

Member
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124
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Greensboro, NC
Jul 28, 2008
#4
  • Jul 28, 2008
  • #4
StangGT1995 said:
If you have access to a welder, you could also tack weld the plunger in place. Of course this method is permanent, so make sure you have no future plans for this lifter, except for checking pushrod length.
Click to expand...

I don't have a welder, but would JB weld work?
 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run
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#5
  • Jul 28, 2008
  • #5
Probably not. It has to be able to withstand quite a bit of spring pressure, and I'm not sure that JB Weld has anywhere near the strength to do it. It might work, but it also might break immediately under pressure. The washer idea isn't bad, but the only concern I have with that one is the possibility of the plunger still having the ability to depress slightly. You could always completely fill the lifter with JB Weld, put the plunger back in, and wait for it to dry. I don't think it would go anywhere then.
 

Redsnk95

Founding Member
Feb 3, 2002
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Houston, TX
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#6
  • Jul 29, 2008
  • #6
Do a search on Hardcore50.com I believe you can just flip the plunger.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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#7
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #7
So...trying to convert a spare explorer lifter I have to a solid.

Clip out, rear section that contacts the pushrod out. I see the plunger inside. I can depress it slightly, but cannot remove it at all. Is there a trick to this? I've tried to take 2 apart so far and can't get the plunder out of either
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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#8
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #8
Got this out.



Can't get this plunger out, although I can depress it a tad. Seems locked in




I have some from a mustang, but assume they are the same. Those are in better shape so trying to make one from these ratty explorer lifters
 
Reactions: Fordfreak93

liljoe07

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Apr 4, 2017
#9
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #9
They are a pain to get out sometimes, compressed air in the oil feed hole can work. Or turn it up side down, and bang it on a piece of wood.
 
Reactions: Fordfreak93

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#10
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #10
Is it really required to have a solid lifter to check for pushrod length?

The plunger spring in the hydraulic lifters has enough resistance that you can feel it by rotating the pushrod as you slowly tighten the rocker nut. The moment you feel the slightest resistance in rotation you are at zero lash. Then just add for lifter preload and you have your length.
 

liljoe07

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#11
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #11
You can actually can compress the lifter before feeling resistance. Not every one has the same feel. Converting to solid takes out any variables.
 

JD1964

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#12
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #12
liljoe07 said:
You can actually can compress the lifter before feeling resistance. Not every one has the same feel. Converting to solid takes out any variables.
Click to expand...

True but if you are using adjustable rockers in the end, the same variables still exist. In addition to feeling for resistance, if the intake is off you can also look at the plunger and see exactly when it begins to compress.
And whats the lifter preload, .060? There's a bit of room for being not exact in my opinion?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,146
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#13
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #13
Well, I thought this would be 5 mins of work with a junk lifter I had on hand...but turning into more of a PITA really
 

liljoe07

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#14
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #14
John Dirks Jr said:
True but if you are using adjustable rockers in the end, the same variables still exist. In addition to feeling for resistance, if the intake is off you can also look at the plunger and see exactly when it begins to compress.
And whats the lifter preload, .060? There's a bit of room for being not exact in my opinion?
Click to expand...

Using the same rocker you would be running during push rod checking would take that variable out of the equation. It's easier to just have the solid lifter than worry about having to pay attention if the valve moved or the lifter depressed. If I was to use a non solid lifter, I would definitely be using light checking springs. Not sure if he is or not.
 

JD1964

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#15
  • Apr 4, 2017
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liljoe07 said:
Using the same rocker you would be running during push rod checking would take that variable out of the equation. It's easier to just have the solid lifter than worry about having to pay attention if the valve moved or the lifter depressed. If I was to use a non solid lifter, I would definitely be using light checking springs. Not sure if he is or not.
Click to expand...

Why light checking springs? In checking pushrod length you want the valve held tight on the seat right? A lighter valve spring wouldn't lend favor to that. Am I missing something in the process?
 

liljoe07

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#16
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #16
All you need is the valve to stay up in the head against the seat. And light springs do that just fine for checking pushrod length.
 

liljoe07

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#17
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #17
John Dirks Jr said:
Why light checking springs? In checking pushrod length you want the valve held tight on the seat right? A lighter valve spring wouldn't lend favor to that. Am I missing something in the process?
Click to expand...

Let me also point this out. You seem to think a non solid lifter is ok for checking pushrod length. But you also seem to think a regular valve spring would be better than a light spring. If you use a normal valve spring and a non solid lifter to check your rocker sweep, it will be erroneous. As the cam moves the lifter up, the lifter will collapse delaying the rocker motion and then throwing off the rocker pattern on the valvestem tip. The rocker pattern will give the illusion that the pushrod is too short.
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
15 Year Member
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#18
  • Apr 4, 2017
  • #18
That makes sense. I was thinking only about pushrod length with regard to preload. I was not thinking about the geometry throughout the range of motion.

Thanks for tolerating my poking.
 

FoxMustangLvr

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#19
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  • #19
It's pricey but.....

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-PTVTOOL/sve-mustang-piston-to-valve-clearance-checking-tool-85-95
 
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