How to remove convertible trim
- Thread starter DonMaximo
- Start date
your in for a treat
can only access this with the top down. I did it, PITA, wouldn't do it again.
If you are doing it merely to paint the trim I would suggest masking and painting on the car. The gaps are big enough to do so without leaving 'evidence'.
just my $.02
can only access this with the top down. I did it, PITA, wouldn't do it again.
If you are doing it merely to paint the trim I would suggest masking and painting on the car. The gaps are big enough to do so without leaving 'evidence'.
just my $.02
oh good...another obsessive car gutting!
Maybe I should show my wife your post so she knows I am not alone...
You will first need to remove the trunk lid, if you havent done so already. Remove the rear seat interior panels, and trunk panels too, if you havent done so already.
Then just look around, there are a bunch of nuts that hold the trim down from the inside. Mine had some rectangular shaped 'washer's too under some of the nuts, so look around...
Be careful, this trim is plastic. I would suggest removing the trunk hinges first since these are 'over' the trim.
If you are painting the car you are correct removing the trim is the only way to avoid a minor tape line. The only way to remove the trim is with the top off so you are correct to do this 100% you need to paint the car AND replace the top immediately after the car was painted.
If you are going through this much trouble I would also suggest you paintless dent removal the car before bodywork to avoid filler, and also be sure to get a no-orange peel like glass job.
If you happen to need a non-sagging rear LX bumper I have a NOS one, new in the box.
Maybe I should show my wife your post so she knows I am not alone...
You will first need to remove the trunk lid, if you havent done so already. Remove the rear seat interior panels, and trunk panels too, if you havent done so already.
Then just look around, there are a bunch of nuts that hold the trim down from the inside. Mine had some rectangular shaped 'washer's too under some of the nuts, so look around...
Be careful, this trim is plastic. I would suggest removing the trunk hinges first since these are 'over' the trim.
If you are painting the car you are correct removing the trim is the only way to avoid a minor tape line. The only way to remove the trim is with the top off so you are correct to do this 100% you need to paint the car AND replace the top immediately after the car was painted.
If you are going through this much trouble I would also suggest you paintless dent removal the car before bodywork to avoid filler, and also be sure to get a no-orange peel like glass job.
If you happen to need a non-sagging rear LX bumper I have a NOS one, new in the box.
You have to take the bolts out that hold the canvas to the body. Pull those out of the way and the bolts are right there. They are very fragile so don't break them. Sometimes they are already broke before you start on them. A good two-part epozy will get it back together. I always have glued them with no problems later on down the road.
glad to help!
Glad you pulled it off!
I would suggest (if it is not too late) to use some loctite when reassembling. I assume the car is still unpainted and gutted?
Now you get to be careful when reassembling as tightening too much pulls the body in and creates creases. Not to worry, out good friends creased the bodies when assembling...
If I were doing mine over again I might consider welding some steel plate behind the body to stiffen it and avoid the creases.
I sincerely hope after all this you have NO tape lines on your body after the respray!
Glad you pulled it off!
I would suggest (if it is not too late) to use some loctite when reassembling. I assume the car is still unpainted and gutted?
Now you get to be careful when reassembling as tightening too much pulls the body in and creates creases. Not to worry, out good friends creased the bodies when assembling...
If I were doing mine over again I might consider welding some steel plate behind the body to stiffen it and avoid the creases.
I sincerely hope after all this you have NO tape lines on your body after the respray!
After I finish removing the convertible top... I'll next crawl under the car and will drop the fuel tank. I'm running new/larger fuel lines. Once the tank and fuel lines are pulled, I'll be welding in subframe connectors and upper/lower torque box reinforcements. I think that should make a substantial difference. Do you agree ?
Car will be used exclusively on the street (non-primary vehicle) and engine has dynoed at 436ft.lbs/433 HP.
Not certain what you meant about "steel plates behind the body...".
Car will be used exclusively on the street (non-primary vehicle) and engine has dynoed at 436ft.lbs/433 HP.
Not certain what you meant about "steel plates behind the body...".
steel plate
I meant literally welding some steel to the sheetmetal on the quarter panels on the backside of the body (quarter panels). The top trim bolts to the sheetmetal, and tightening the bolts pulls in and warps the metal. I haven't done this but I would suppose that window motors/regulators would need to be removed first...but if you do...you would have THE ONLY fox vert without these warped panels!
I meant literally welding some steel to the sheetmetal on the quarter panels on the backside of the body (quarter panels). The top trim bolts to the sheetmetal, and tightening the bolts pulls in and warps the metal. I haven't done this but I would suppose that window motors/regulators would need to be removed first...but if you do...you would have THE ONLY fox vert without these warped panels!
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