So on my 98 Mustang GT with the 4.6 and 4r70W transmission I have run into the issue of the O ring on my transmission dipstick failing and leaking. For now I have some RTV plugging up the leak but I've had issues of getting the bolt on the bell housing (that holds on the dipstick) off so I can remove the transmission dipstick. So my question is to anybody what would be the best way to break that bolt loose? Please note I'm only working out of my drive way so I don't have a lot of shop equipment.
How to remove the transmission Dipstick on a 4r70W
- Thread starter TekoSn95
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to also add this is the O ring that goes into the transmission pan not the one that is seated on the top
Welcome to Stangnet! 
I guess the big questions here are what are you using to try to break it loose, how much space do you have to work with?
Generally speaking, you want more leverage. So, for example, if you're using a breaker bar you could slide a piece of pipe over the handle part to extend your grip. Here's an example:
Or you can slide a large enough socket onto the end of the breaker bar and use an extension to achieve the same thing.
If you're using a wrench you can do a couple different things. There's a tool made specifically for extending leverage for box end wrenches, I believe you can find them on Amazon. Here's an example:
Or you can slip the box end onto the bolt head then use a second box end wrench and slip that over the open end of the wrench to use that as leverage:
I hope this answers your question, good luck!
I guess the big questions here are what are you using to try to break it loose, how much space do you have to work with?
Generally speaking, you want more leverage. So, for example, if you're using a breaker bar you could slide a piece of pipe over the handle part to extend your grip. Here's an example:
Or you can slide a large enough socket onto the end of the breaker bar and use an extension to achieve the same thing.
If you're using a wrench you can do a couple different things. There's a tool made specifically for extending leverage for box end wrenches, I believe you can find them on Amazon. Here's an example:
Or you can slip the box end onto the bolt head then use a second box end wrench and slip that over the open end of the wrench to use that as leverage:
I hope this answers your question, good luck!
you know the box end wrench is a trick I tried, The firewall is kinda up close to the bolt so I cant get a wrench with a socket but i can get an open ended 13mm in there. Should I get an extended 13mm from harbor freight (bad idea ik but who cares its gonna be a one time use thing rlly). Get the leverage extender for the wrench and try that? I have used only my 13mm wrench (trying to get another wrench for leverage but to no avail) Also 2 other questions
1. Should I try heat and PB blaster to help break that bolt loose?
2. What precautions are best to give me the extra assurance that when the replacement O ring is on I have assurance it wont leak again (Example is putting RTV just above the O ring to at least plug up the hole incase the seal does leak at some point in the future)
1. Should I try heat and PB blaster to help break that bolt loose?
2. What precautions are best to give me the extra assurance that when the replacement O ring is on I have assurance it wont leak again (Example is putting RTV just above the O ring to at least plug up the hole incase the seal does leak at some point in the future)
I think I'd go with that tool I linked (or one like it - Amazon has a bunch....) - unless you want another set of wrenches. I was just on HF's website and they don't list a standalone 13mm. I don't remember seeing individual wrenches the last time I was in their store, but that's not saying they don't offer them. 
So you'd end up having to buy a complete set (again....) just to get the one wrench you want (that's probably why I have so many wrenches.... 
). And to get an extended length wrench you'd have to spend $80 minimum vs ~$15 or so for that wrench extender? It seems like the best option if money's a consideration (when isn't it?).
Here's the least expensive option on Amazon at ~$13. I now have it in my cart.... lol
If you'll notice, it has a 1/2" drive square hole on the handle end so you can use a breaker bar in conjunction for even more leverage - be careful you don't send tools flying!!
To give my 2 cents on your other questions:
1. You can definitely try some penetrating oil and heat but I don't know how much heat will help. If the factory used Loctite it would definitely help but I don't suspect they used Loctite on those bolts.
2. Put a light film of oil on the O ring before you try to install the tube is all I can really offer. And make sure it's all good and clean before reassembly. It doesn't take much to cause stuff to not seal. Personally, I wouldn't add any other sealant unless I had to. First, it's a ghetto fix or something you'd do to get you by until you could have it done correctly. Second - eventually when you go to do something else later down the road you'll end up regretting having all of that crap that you'll have to remove.
So you'd end up having to buy a complete set (again....) just to get the one wrench you want (that's probably why I have so many wrenches.... ). And to get an extended length wrench you'd have to spend $80 minimum vs ~$15 or so for that wrench extender? It seems like the best option if money's a consideration (when isn't it?).Here's the least expensive option on Amazon at ~$13. I now have it in my cart.... lol
If you'll notice, it has a 1/2" drive square hole on the handle end so you can use a breaker bar in conjunction for even more leverage - be careful you don't send tools flying!!
To give my 2 cents on your other questions:
1. You can definitely try some penetrating oil and heat but I don't know how much heat will help. If the factory used Loctite it would definitely help but I don't suspect they used Loctite on those bolts.
2. Put a light film of oil on the O ring before you try to install the tube is all I can really offer. And make sure it's all good and clean before reassembly. It doesn't take much to cause stuff to not seal. Personally, I wouldn't add any other sealant unless I had to. First, it's a ghetto fix or something you'd do to get you by until you could have it done correctly. Second - eventually when you go to do something else later down the road you'll end up regretting having all of that crap that you'll have to remove.
I suppose you could order one of these (or something like it) with that extender. On a positive note, if you wanted you could probably just return them if you don't want them and wanted your money back.
Yeah that is the idea lol. When my RTV fails around the dipstick (which I know it will its happened before). Ill get to work on this! I wanna say I appreciate the help because I was on Allfordmustangs.com and some dude with a was like "you'll need to try to make your own tool" and I'm just some dude working out of my driveway... This should work and I guess as a precaution (since I'm afraid of losing my wrenches) ill add some tape to the wrench & the leverage bar so I can assure the wrench doesn't fall into the abyss of my cars engine bay.I suppose you could order one of these (or something like it) with that extender. On a positive note, if you wanted you could probably just return them if you don't want them and wanted your money back.
Happy to have helped! Let us know how that extender thingy worked for you. The reviews on Amazon seem to be pretty positive. I did some looking around and swapped the one I shared for a more expensive piece just because it's straight instead of having that "bow" or whatever you want to call it in it. That and it actually kind of matches my 1/2" ratchet and breaker bar. 
I haven't pulled the trigger on it - yet....
I haven't pulled the trigger on it - yet....Alright well Im probably gonna try this real soon. the dipstick does seem to be leaking againHappy to have helped! Let us know how that extender thingy worked for you. The reviews on Amazon seem to be pretty positive. I did some looking around and swapped the one I shared for a more expensive piece just because it's straight instead of having that "bow" or whatever you want to call it in it. That and it actually kind of matches my 1/2" ratchet and breaker bar.
Alright! Heres your update I got the dipstick out of the hole and I was gonna install the new seal from the bottom of the car but my dad was able to get the dipstick out completely... but now here's another problem we cant find a way to put the dipstick tube back in. I still have my mid pipe in the car as well but as per a youtube video I saw a guy removed his EGR tube and was able to get his tube in somehow.(edit: he removed his bracket that connects to the bell housing but I'm not too keen on it) So my question here is how do I get the tube back in the car. Im really not that much in a rush to get this car back out on the road since my grandpa is loaning me his dodge Durango right now but I kinda still wanna get it back out thereHappy to have helped! Let us know how that extender thingy worked for you. The reviews on Amazon seem to be pretty positive. I did some looking around and swapped the one I shared for a more expensive piece just because it's straight instead of having that "bow" or whatever you want to call it in it. That and it actually kind of matches my 1/2" ratchet and breaker bar.
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I don't know if I'll be much help with this part, I've not dealt with replacing a dipstick tube in a transmission but I've replaced the oil dipstick tube on my 302. That's pretty easy and very visible so you can see what you're doing. But if I had to guess, you're having a hard time getting it lined up because you can't see what you're doing? The only suggestions I have are an inspection mirror - that might help you see what you're doing from the top - or if you wanted to get really in depth, you could drain the transmission and remove the pan so you can see the hole from the bottom. That would most likely take 2 people for sure.
Now, if you're having problems getting it to start or seat in the hole, you could try giving it some gentle persuasion with a mallet. Be sure to use something like a rubber mallet or, if you have a piece of scrap wood laying around, use the mallet/hammer on that between the tube and the hammer face. You could then lightly tap and see if it starts to seat. I'd advise if you choose to go that route that you make sure it's starting straight so as to not shave pieces of aluminum from the casing. I'd also advise that you pull the pan for that, too, so you can make damned sure that there is no chance of that ending up in your fluid. The hole for the tube is most likely precision fit so the tube won't just fall into place.
Now, if you're having problems getting it to start or seat in the hole, you could try giving it some gentle persuasion with a mallet. Be sure to use something like a rubber mallet or, if you have a piece of scrap wood laying around, use the mallet/hammer on that between the tube and the hammer face. You could then lightly tap and see if it starts to seat. I'd advise if you choose to go that route that you make sure it's starting straight so as to not shave pieces of aluminum from the casing. I'd also advise that you pull the pan for that, too, so you can make damned sure that there is no chance of that ending up in your fluid. The hole for the tube is most likely precision fit so the tube won't just fall into place.
yeah I wish I could explain it but the dipstick tube is getting caught up when I'm trying to put it in. I don't really think lining it up is that big of an issue because I can see down to the bottom of the car kinda but its getting the dipstick through to the bottom of the car is kindve what I'm getting caught up on.
here is the video I watched and I'm trying to replicate what this guy did but to no avail
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0C1VtiD9ck
here is the video I watched and I'm trying to replicate what this guy did but to no avail
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0C1VtiD9ck
Alright so my dipstick tube from what I can is getting caught on the bell housing. If I turn it I am able to push it in a bit more its just that the problem is that the bracket is facing away from where I have to bolt it into the bell housing. Idk if I should consider going out and buying a Lokar dipstick but I am gonna possibly sell my car when I'm done with this job.
Sorry, missed your last response, but that thing's got quite the bend in it. 
I'm sure if your dad was able to get it out that it should go back in. It's probably one of those cases where it's gotta be just right. Without having my hands on it I don't think I can give any useful advice. I guess the best I can offer is that you've got an idea of how to get it in there, just keep at it and walk away when you start getting frustrated to the point you wanna throw things. Not the easiest advice to follow - trust me, I know!
I'm sure if your dad was able to get it out that it should go back in. It's probably one of those cases where it's gotta be just right. Without having my hands on it I don't think I can give any useful advice. I guess the best I can offer is that you've got an idea of how to get it in there, just keep at it and walk away when you start getting frustrated to the point you wanna throw things. Not the easiest advice to follow - trust me, I know!
lol thanks for the advice. I surprisingly have been the most calm on this job then any other job I've done on my MustangSorry, missed your last response, but that thing's got quite the bend in it.
I'm sure if your dad was able to get it out that it should go back in. It's probably one of those cases where it's gotta be just right. Without having my hands on it I don't think I can give any useful advice. I guess the best I can offer is that you've got an idea of how to get it in there, just keep at it and walk away when you start getting frustrated to the point you wanna throw things. Not the easiest advice to follow - trust me, I know!
Alright the dipstick tube is back in and seated. Didnt do the bolt just yet but the bolt is threaded in and not tightened all the way.Sorry, missed your last response, but that thing's got quite the bend in it.
I'm sure if your dad was able to get it out that it should go back in. It's probably one of those cases where it's gotta be just right. Without having my hands on it I don't think I can give any useful advice. I guess the best I can offer is that you've got an idea of how to get it in there, just keep at it and walk away when you start getting frustrated to the point you wanna throw things. Not the easiest advice to follow - trust me, I know!
How my dad did it is somehow he took the grip end (to be exact the end of this hammer was rubber) of a metal hammer put it on the tube somewhere, and used a rubber mallet and started hammering at the tube and was able to knock it in, Then I just put some oil around the O ring and seated it in the hole and began threading in the bolt.
Though I don't know if it was us but we somehow bent the bracket where you stick the bolt in but we should be able to get by with it being bent
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