How to run cooler and why am I running hotter after heads?

Kdubslugga

Active Member

Jun 7, 2003

1,515

3

38

43

Akron, OH

May 28, 2007

#1

• May 28, 2007

• #1

Heres the issue, few weeks back i went to the track with stock heads and head gaskets and i ran a 13.004 at 110.80 whle blowing the head gasket. I used the oppurtunity to bolt on some heads and some Cometic head gaskets and alos a 160 thermo instead of my 180 i had been running. Now cruising around town the temp settles at 195-200, when i mash on it through 4 gears it goes to 210 before slowly coming back down to 195, i never ran this hot before and i was wondering if it was normal to run a bit hotter with aluminum heads?? A freind of mine has the same setup and never runs over 180 but he has a 2 row aluminum radiator compared to my stock replacemet piece of crap. should i be investing monye into a better radiator?

 

S

slappy9090

New Member

Apr 20, 2007

40

0

0

marion, iowa

May 28, 2007

#2

• May 28, 2007

• #2

I am running all stock motor other than bolt on's right now, full intake and exhaust. I would think even with aluminum heads it shouldn't make your heat run that high unless (which this is probably the case) your OEM radiator is entirley too small to handle the ad-ons. I just bought a 2 row aluminum from oriley auto parts, advanced auto parts had a good one also, very impressed with it it was under 300 bones also! I don't even break 180 now!

 

Aryan15

Member

Sep 22, 2003

236

0

17

CA

May 28, 2007

#3

• May 28, 2007

• #3

I would go with the aluminum 2 row radiator, 180*t-stat, and aftermarket water temp. gauge, and do a good flush of the block before installing your new radiator. IMO, aluminum heads warrant a cooling system upgrade.

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

Founding Member

Aug 7, 2002

9,516

6

99

Arkansas

May 28, 2007

#4

• May 28, 2007

• #4

Aluminum heads dissipate heat better than iron heads.

That is not 'normal' from what I have experienced.

I'm assuming the headgaskets were put on correctly. The tab should be sticking out at the front of the engine.

Now, if the heads are somehow getting you more compression, that causes extra heat.

I would not run a 160* t-stat, run 180* or greater.

 

TheBocSez

New Member

Feb 3, 2004

652

0

0

Converse, TX

May 28, 2007

#5

• May 28, 2007

• #5

5spd GT said:

Aluminum heads dissipate heat better than iron heads.

That is not 'normal' from what I have experienced.

I'm assuming the headgaskets were put on correctly. The tab should be sticking out at the front of the engine.
Now, if the heads are somehow getting you more compression, that causes extra heat.

I would not run a 160* t-stat, run 180* or greater.

Click to expand...

That was my 1st thought too.

 

daddystang

New Member

Aug 13, 2006

185

0

0

May 28, 2007

#6

• May 28, 2007

• #6

I'd also go back to the 180 stat. From what I've seen on here from prior posts, and my own experience the 160's don't cool as well as the 180. With the mods you have I'd assume you have a mechanical temp guage so that you get a real reading, the stock guage is kind of funny. Good luck to you.

 

Kdubslugga

Active Member

Jun 7, 2003

1,515

3

38

43

Akron, OH

May 28, 2007

#7

• May 28, 2007

• #7

I have an autometer 2 1/16 temp guage that is electrical that is where my readings are coming from, i went on a long cruise today, it settles at 179 on the highway, but drives much warmer just driving around town, and yes the tabs on the head gasket are facing the front, there on right lol, i made double and triple sure before i put them on.

Im gonna try an aluminum radiator, and maybe go back to the 180 stat!

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

Founding Member

Aug 7, 2002

9,516

6

99

Arkansas

May 28, 2007

#8

• May 28, 2007

• #8

Kdubslugga said:

I have an autometer 2 1/16 temp guage that is electrical that is where my readings are coming from, i went on a long cruise today, it settles at 179 on the highway, but drives much warmer just driving around town, and yes the tabs on the head gasket are facing the front, there on right lol, i made double and triple sure before i put them on.

Im gonna try an aluminum radiator, and maybe go back to the 180 stat!

Click to expand...

The radiator is air cooled as you know while coolant passes and 'stalls' into the radiator cavity to cool it down before entering the engine. If the t-stat rating is too low (i.e. 160*) it may not allow the coolant to 'stall' in the radiator cavity and cool down, so it is a continous cycle of hot/hot/hot, instead of cold/hot/cold.

I hope that made sense, and I hope that fixes it.

It is particularly noticeable at low cruising speeds (less air cooling over the radiator).

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

May 28, 2007

#9

• May 28, 2007

• #9

It sounds like a cooling fan issue if you run at a decent temp while on the highway.

Good luck.

 

Modular2v

Founding Member

Jun 30, 2002

3,222

23

99

oklahoma

May 28, 2007

#10

• May 28, 2007

• #10

i run a HIGH flow electric water pump, no t stat, aluminum heads and a 3 core aluminum afco radiator.....i have to WORK to get my car up to 160 lol it sucks. You need to upgrade ur radiator and put the 180stat back in though!

 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta

Founding Member

Nov 22, 2001

3,501

28

119

Motor City

May 29, 2007

#11

• May 29, 2007

• #11

A thick aluminum radiator in my 96 Cobra worked wonders. I was running in the L in NORMAL....after the blower install and the radator install...(same time)...the car runs in the N and the O in NORMAL.....