I have an OBD reader, but my check engine light isn't on. Should I still plug in the OBD reader?Get a code reader.
It should tell you which cylinder is misfiring.
I have an OBD reader, but my check engine light isn't on. Should I still plug in the OBD reader?
Unfortunately, OBD reader found no codes, even as the motor was idling with a miss and backfiring in the exhaust.
Thank you. I now have an after-dark project!
WOW! I'm really enjoying the input I'm receiving here on StangNet. Thank you for jumping in. I pulled and tested all the coil packs, and they met spec. And since it's still pretty warm here in AZ, I didn't detect any water in the spark plug holes.Unplug the injectors one by one instead. Less chance of shocking yourself messing with an active coil. I've been zapped a few times and it hurts like a mofo.
You can unplug them with engine off instead too. TBH first thing i'd do is pull them and verify you don't have water sitting down in the spark plug holes
The mustang OBD2 might be too primitive, but later Fords have a misfire counter PID. Needs to be so many misfires before a code is generated and sometimes there just isn't. If you have that PID (and i'm not sure as i haven't plugged into mine in awhile) you can see if misfires are being detected that wouldn't trip a CEL. This might be a features that only the later OBD2 cars can do.
Would you care to comment on what injectors I should select if/when I find a failed one in my motor? Should I replace more than the failed one?Yes, you can pull fuel injectors while the engine is running. I do it all the time. Should be a noticeable drop in RPM and change in tone. Just unplug, note if it changes or not, and plug it back in. Won’t hurt anything.
Check the resistance of the injector coils as well. With car off, unplug and touch the two leads of a multimeter set to resistance across the two prongs. Should be about 14.4 ohms.
I actually once drove a few hundred miles on 7 cylinders with a dead injector. Was hard to detect. Had a light vibration at 3k RPM but other than that the car drove decent and had power. Obviously it ran better once I sourced a new injector.
My stethoscope arrived and I was able to hear all 8 injectors clicking away. Then I went ahead and tested all the injectors by unplugging them one-by-one. Each time I disconnected an injector, the engine ran rougher. It seems like #3 may be the problem child, as removing that connector didn't produce as much additional roughness as the other ones did. Now, the car won't idle after plugging everything back in. Did I mess something up by running the car with the intake tube removed from the throttle body? Removing the intake tube was the only way to reach the #3 injector. I plugged and unplugged #3 a couple times with the intake tube removed and noticed only minor change in roughness, so I was thinking that #3 is failing. I then plugged the #3 injector connector back in, re-attached the intake tube while the engine was running, and that caused it to stall out immediately. Now, the engine won't stay running unless I hold the tach at 2k. Did I break something, or did I diagnose #3 as failing?Replace it with the same type. I would just change one. Anytime I’ve had a failed injector on one car that was the only one to ever have an issue.
Unless you have 400k miles and they are crusty, I wouldn’t overthink it
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