Hp = 1/4 mile time,1/8 th mile time

[Gtwo]

hello been stalking for awhile, I got a 98 gt 4.6 with a stick. Whats the accepted power numbers to push these cars to the 12s,or the 10s?
1/8 mile stats would help to.

More noob ?'s to come.

 

[slayerripkdc]

Thats a hard question. I have seen these cars with 270ish wheel horse run 12's and I have seen 400 wheel horse run 12's. Many many factors play a role in 1/4 mile times. Traction and driver is key!

 

[Gtwo]

Somehow done a bunch of posts,my phone is acting weird.
Whats it take to go tens?

 

[slayerripkdc]

12's to 10's...thats a pretty big jump. Why don't you run 14's first .

 

[bhuff30]

10s? That takes a lot more than just power and $$,$$$. It takes a well sorted out combination. And that combination you will only get from experience in setting up the car, suspension and drivetrain. It is incedible how many people make the power to run 10s, but can barely break into the 11s or 12s because the car isn't dialed in and setup correctly.

On the other hand, there are plenty of cars making barely more than stock hp, yet have the chassis, suspension and drivetrain setup just right to click off easy 12s every pass.

 

[Gtwo]

I understand you cant buy tens, not trying to. I was just wondering what it does take. Like how can I tell the difference between a 10 & 12 car on the street.

My personal goal is 12 on the motor. Get consistent and then spray.

I have raced before but it was a 226" rail with a BBC and a powerglide, went low 6's in the eighth.

Total noob when it comes to these newer mod motors,mustang chassis.

How good is the stock suspension when its in good shape?

 

[bhuff30]

Lots of good calculators here: http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm Just put in your specs and see. A typical weight is probably around 3500-3700 with driver/fluids. Looks like around 500rwhp with an ideal suspension/driver would get you 10s in a full weight car.

 

[Gtwo]

Thank you,thats what I was looking for.

 

[saxmanJJ]

Depends on setup of suspension, tires, weight and weight distribution.

I went 12.90 w/ 265rwhp.

I went 11.49 w/451rwhp.

Both times with the same basic suspension and tires (well, 12.90 was on 275/50/15s, 11.49 on 275/60/15s).

I'd like to know what it will take to run 10s too!
I'm going to guess I'll need another 75rwhp to hit 10.99 w/o changing anything else w/ the car. My car has adjustable shocks and struts, battery relocated, A/C delete, front swaybar delete, Maximum Motorsports LCAs, running on 275/60/15 MT ET Street Radials.

 

[cronin57]

12's to 10's...thats a pretty big jump. Why don't you run 14's first .

What he said. It will cost you more than $10,000. If you were able to get into the 10's, there is a good chance your car will no longer be street legal. Before someone jumps on me for saying this, I said "a good chance", not "for sure". I got into the 11's once, and I have dumped about $15,000 into my car since I bought it new in 2003 for $29,500. This figure counts in the new Motor, a Cobra shortblock with all forged innards, that cost me $7000 installed, and my Paxton 2000, another $5,500. Then there's the springs, subframes, rims and rubber, Throttle body, intake, etc. Much money, indeed!

 

[Gtwo]

Yeah, I have no where near that budget, once again...

I am not shooting for ten, gonna try for 12' s.

Was just trying to get a baseline on what it took other people to get to those milestones. And not just hp wise, suspension and drivetrain as well, how heavy your car was at the time would be useful info to.

 

[Gtwo]

A shot of what im working with, those hood pins I don't like, comes with buying a used car I guess.

 

[sneaky98gt]

10s on a manual transmission is also MUCH more difficult than on an automatic transmission.

And as far as what kind of dyno numbers? It's very hard to say. With '325' rwhp, I went 12.57 @ 109.51 mph. With '335' rwhp, I went 12.09 @ 117.49 mph. In other words, I picked up 8 mph in the 1/4 with '10' rwhp..... Get away from the habit of associating dyno numbers with track times, ESPECIALLY elapsed times; trap speeds are relatively easy to get, but a good ET requires a lot more than just power.

All that being said, a 3600 pound car, with a good suspension/tire setup, good rear gear, stall converter (if an automatic), and most importantly, A GOOD DRIVER, will go 12s with 275ish rwhp, maybe a little less. It will take around 500 on the same car to go 10s.

At the same time, here's what a 650 rwhp car looks like with crappy tires and a crappy driver:


i.e. he got smoked by a car making HALF the amount of power.

 

[Winters98GT]

12's and 10's are a big difference. Shoot, a 11.0 to a 10.5 is a huge difference. A good drag radial is where I would start for 10's. Then, you will need a solid clutch and a lot of power for a stick car.

It seems that every car has a different sticking point for ET's(or threshold) given their setup when the ET just doesn't come down much regardless of what you do.

If you do full race suspension, slicks/skinnies, then it changes things. I've never liked to touch the suspension on my cars(my 3 2v mustangs, except lowering them), and prefer to run them the way I do on the street everyday. It is really up to you what you want to do with the car.

Either build the crap out it with a lot of HP, a strong clutch, sub-frame connectors, and a good drag radial, or make it a drag purpose car with suspension, removing weight, built rear, gears, etc. You need to decide on if it is a street car or a car that is driven on the street but only intended for 1/4 racing.

 

[Gtwo]

Street car first and track car second for sure.

Gonna just run the shniz out of it and see what'll do! Im not just made of money and cant just stuff wads of hundreds under the hood,I am trying just to set baselines in my mind.