HP expert? Need your help spending my money

Alright, well I just recently bought a 94 mustang GT in laser red with the tan/black leather interior combo with 55k miles on the dash.

The modifications were as followed:
Vortech V2-sq kit
shorty headers
Bassani x-pipe
Magnaflow exhaust
3:73 gears

Since then I ordered a 3" cowl induction hood and '03 cobra wheels.

How much HP do you think the car is making currently and what should I order next for the car? Should I go the suspension route or continue to upgrade the engine?

BTW: The car is sitting in my parents garage where my dad is putting on the parts for me since I'm at Keesler AFB, MS about 15 hours from home.

Thanks for any help I can get.
 
suspension.if your going to build a house,you need a strong foundation.with your engine mod's,it sound's like your making good power,assuming it's in tip-top shape.are you still on the factory suspension?

i think rear upper and lower control arms,lowering springs,subframe connectors(which i need),others will chime in with their opinions.

welcome to stangnet.
 
I made sure all the maintenance was done right away. It's pushing 8psi right now.
I know on my old car it was a big no-no to put lowering springs on stock shocks/struts, but one of you mentioned lowering springs and not shocks so just curious if the stock shocks/struts could handle them?

What heads would be good to go for? GT40 heads?
 
i lowered my car an 1 1/2 inch on stock shocks/struts before switching to coilovers.it's always best to replace the shocks/struts while you have everything taken apart,but not required.

as for heads,i'm not sure.i got gt40's,just have not installed them yet.alot of other guy's here have strong engine combo's,they can answer those question's better than i.i'm focusing on suspension and braking first.
 
It sounds like you have a pretty nice car. the first things I would do is check and see if the car has 42lb injectors, a good maf and a custom tune if the car has a fmu, stock injectors, and msd BTM it is more prone to engine killing detonation and more likely to blow head gaskets or worse burn pistons or split the block.

the second thing I would do is buy good full length sub frame connctors and K member brace assuming you still have the factory strut tower brace to keep things from flexing. A set of good aftermarket rear lower control arms, aftermarket springs and camber castor plates.