So confirming what I need to do to put a '88 CV 302/AOD in my '65 A-code.

1320stang

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Nov 13, 1998
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Edmond, Oklahoma
30+ years ago I pulled the 289 out of my '65 and took it apart (don't remember why) and traded the 3 speed for future machine work. I had bought a race 289 and had a Boss 351 Toploader that never ended up in the car. I purchased the aforementioned combo from a friend a year ago to put in the car, mainly to get it to move on its own, for $150 it was hard to turn down as a 'get by' combo.

I sent my motor mounts to a ChuckCoupe, a guy who built his own Daytona Coupe from scratch. I bought a set of mounts from CJ Pony Parts. Last night I started moving stuff around so I wasn't tripping over it all the time. I found a set of '66 up motor mounts I'd forgotten I had. I have extra pans, timing covers, etc. I'm trying to stay away from using 289 parts as possible, yet not spending a bunch of money. I'm trying to get the old girl moving under its own power so I don't have to push it around and hopefully motivate my son to help me work on it.

I know about brakes, wiring, etc, mainly concerned with getting the engine in and working.

Starting off, its a filthy mess but first off I ought to see if it turns over and maybe do a compression test. If it passes, throw some exhaust manifolds on it, throw it on the trailer after covering the throttle body and checking for any other opening and take it to the carwash for a bath.

At the bottom, the pan and pickup need changed, maybe the pump as well?

On the front, pull the timing cover so we can use the normal V-belt water pump, should be it up there, no? Now, I have no idea whether it has a fuel pump eccentric or not, but my tank is rotted out, so I plan on running an in-tank electric pump anyway eventually, so for now a small box pump and a gallon gas can will work, likely with a regulator.

So as far as induction, I know I said not to use 289 parts, but since its on top, thinking of using the iron intake and carb, plus I don't have the wiring harness that came with the engine, HOWEVER, I have an Explorer intake, wiring harness, computer, throttle body, fuel injectors and lines, etc. Actually I have another intake, throttle body, injectors and rails, just no harness. I think I have $75 for all of that.

I picked up some Fox Body tubular shorties with the ball & socket for free.

I'm not sure about a kickdown lever/cable, whatever the communicator to the AOD is.

As far as AOD, I have no idea if my stock driveshaft is the correct length, nor if the AOD splines vs the 3-speed spline are the same. Hoping at worse I just have to swap the yoke and not cut the shaft.
 
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Might be worth a phone call to Modern Driveline.
I personally can't recall anyone putting the AOD into a classic, but I remember the kickdown linkage is a big deal and if not correct, can scrap the transmission.
 
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I'm not quite sure if I want to mess with the factory Ford EFI. If I had pulled it out it would be one thing, but since its parts and pieces I got from various sources, not sure if I want to go down that rabbit hole. Ultimately I'd like to go Holley EFI of some sort, just so I don't have to mess with the carburator, but that'll likely be on a different engine, and since this car has a third pedal, I'm thinking 5 speed. With this light of a car, if it makes 300-400hp thats prefectly fine with the 8" thats in it. Something to cruise and maybe to a little autocross in, nothing too hot.
 
You won't have to change the oil pump, just the pick-up tube and oil pan. I think that the 5.0 timing cover is early enough that there will be a cast place for a front dipstick tube. It will need to be drilled out to exactly3/8". 3/8" metal fuel line is the same diameter as the oil dipstick tube. If you make your own tube, you will have to make it a certain length to be calibrated for 5 quarts. Also the right-hand passenger side brackets, alternator? might have to have a hole drilled in it for the dipstick tube. If the dipstick tube only has one bend in it, you can use a flat dipstick. If it has two bends in it you will have to use a 5.0 dipstick that is twisted like a pretzel. For exhaust, either stock '65 manifolds or Tri-Y headers for a '65-'66 Hipo. Yes you do have to have a calibrated kick down cable for the AOD or you will burn it up. Personally, if I had a Toploader 4 speed, I would install that. With the AOD you will need a rear differential ratio anywhere from 3:73 to 4:11 depending on the type of driving that you will be doing. It depends on the final drive ratio of the AOD. Probably closer to 4;11 will work well.
 
I have spare classic timing covers so the dipstick shouldn't be a problem. However I likely don't have a fuel pump eccentric on the '88 302, so a blockoff would be required. If I still owned a toploader you can bet it would go in, but they're so expensive. I'm thinking a T5 at least. The current rear has a 3.00 in it as I recall.

Now the kickdown to keep from burning up the trans is only required for cruising down the road, no? I mean driving it in an out of the garage or from the front yard to the back, shouldn't burn up the trans, right?
 
I recently completed Swapping 97 ford explorer 5.0L with GT40p head and 4R70W E-AOD tranny.
I modified the Explorer's existing wiring harness and got video instructions on youtube. My 67 Mustang now has 5.0L fuel injected with AODE Transmission
5.0 Eng.jpg
 
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Very nice!!!

So I'm on a self imposed deadline to get this thing running, driving, starting and stipping safely enough to take it to Hallett road course and Tulsa's dragstrip next year for the 50th Shelby meet.

Many Mustang parts places are no longer around and its been 30+ years since I bought anything new (I don't believe my Mustang was running when I joined Stangnet...)

So I know about many places that sell parts, any to stay away from? Any manufacturers to stay away from? I'm inclined to go Moog but maybe all that stuff is cheap Chinese.