HP Turbo question

rdharper02 · Feb 20, 2012

Does anyone have the installation instructions for an HP turbo kit (1993 single kit)? I cant find mine and am installing my kit on the current project car. Any experience would be greatly appreciated as this is quickly becoming the car that Stangnet built. It all seems minor, but I barely have the time needed to finish this car before work and a planned move occur.

I need to know the below:

-Intake/Turbo cut-out template for fender.
-Initial timing
-Initial fuel pressure
-Pan location and method of installing the oil line drain.
-Plug gap

Rick 91GT · Feb 20, 2012

- never got one, just mock up and cut small pieces
- 10 degrees base
- 38-40lbs vac off
- go 1/2" back from the first bolt on the side of the oil pan, and 1-3/4" down
- .035"

HP is out of business.....

OIL DRAIN INSTALL FROM VORTECH, you can use this although I used a 1/2" for a turbo drain instead of 3/8"

A.

To provide an oil drain for the supercharger, it is necessary

to make a hole in the oil pan. Locate and mark hole per

diagram. It is best to punch the hole rather than drill.

B.

Remove paint around the hole area.

C.

Use a small center punch to perforate the pan and expand

hole. Switch to a larger diameter punch and expand the hole

further to approximately 9/16" diameter. Most punches are

made from hexagon material and may be placed in a socket

with an extension to make this procedure easier.

D.

Tap the hole with a 3/8" NPT tap approximately1/4" deep.

Pack the flutes of the tap with heavy grease to hold chips.

Use a small magnet to check for any stray chips.

E.

Thoroughly clean the threaded area. Apply a small amount

of silicone sealer to the new threads. Apply more sealer to

the 3/8" NPT hose fitting and secure in hole. Make sure a

seal is formed all around the fitting.

F.

Drain the engine oil and change the filter.

rdharper02 · Feb 20, 2012

Right on Rick. Your right, I think its because I kept requesting for the pdf on instructions. It figures, they seem to have made nice stuff, but their customer service was the worst.

Any recommendations on punching the pan while its on the car?

Oh, got the rearend done and under the car today. I'll post some pics as I get a little further. Its been almost 7 months since it has been on tires, sitting on the ground. Thanks again for the parts and help!

Rick 91GT · Feb 20, 2012

Just go slow and dont make it to big, also dont use a long punch or it will hit the crank. I took a punch and ground it down, fat and snubby..... I personally hate that method but it works well, pack the flutes of the tap full of grease.

No problem

RacEoHolic330 · Feb 20, 2012

The Vortech instructions are good. I used them when I installed my blower.

You don't have an aftermarket k-member, do you?

rdharper02 · Feb 21, 2012

I do have a tubular k-member. Its a MM piece, but should not present a problem. It looks like the one main hoop is rearward to the factory location.

RacEoHolic330 · Feb 21, 2012

You may be in for an unfortunate surprise. Take a look at this page of my build thread:

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...n-thread-dart-331-turbo-irs-etc.848816/page-3

My HP kit did not clear my MM k-member on the driver side. Only solution for me was to make a new header. My HP kit is an older one, so if yours is relatively new, they may have revised the driver side header design. I know the newer ones have a slightly different turbo placement. Hopefully yours will fit. If it does, there will still be VERY little clearance between the header and k-member/oil filter.

RacEoHolic330 · Feb 21, 2012

Take a look at the drive side of this k-member. It's for a 96, but it's still similar. Notice the square tubular support to the front side of the k member on the MM piece. That protrudes out further than the stock k-member, which doesn't have that support. That is what my header was hitting. Everything would have fit with the stock k-member.

rdharper02 · Feb 21, 2012

Did you have to re-fab the k-member?

RacEoHolic330 · Feb 21, 2012

Nooooo. I was not about to jeopardize the integrity of the k-member. Cutting any portion of a tubular k-member is a very bad idea. The MM k-member is a beefy one with a superior design to many other brands, so I didn't want to get rid of it and buy a different one. If you don't want to modify the hell out of your hotside, you'll need a different k-member.

rdharper02 · Feb 23, 2012

Well the good news is that the k-member appears to be another brand. The bad news is that it may still have a problem towards the engine mount portion. I have another a-arm to do before I start into the turbo. Wish me luck.

RacEoHolic330 · Feb 23, 2012

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

rdharper02 · Feb 23, 2012

Scott, just got a chance to look at your build thread. Great stuff!!. I did finish my other A-Arm today and notice that the rear mounting pad contacts my exhaust. started to cut off the corner, but had to come in for dinner. Did you finish your sub? If not, PM me and I can show you a quick and easy way to fab your box.

RacEoHolic330 · Feb 23, 2012

Thanks. I appreciate it. What exactly are you doing with the a-arms? I'm curious.

I decided to just go with the loaded Pioneer unit. Cheap, quick, and easy. Not as great as a custom enclosure, but it will serve its purpose for me.

rdharper02 · Feb 24, 2012

I had factory a-arms with the 1 inch forward k-member, so I decided to take the opportunity to buy some tubular arms with the 1 inch reverse to put the spindle in the factory location. Sadly enough, if I had kept the 4 lug setup I had, I wouldnt have needed them. At least, I'm saving some weight.

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