HTS/Ceramic?

I believe the following info is factual, if not someone correct me.

The HTS coating is a lighter coating which is not as thermally insulated as the ceramic.

The ceramic coated is a heavy coating which is very insulated and keeps the outsides of the pipes much cooler, theoretically increasing flow rate and hp....etc.

Hope this helps.

First, I would not recommend MAC headers...especially HTS coating. The right way is ceramic because they can withhold the most heat withing "Rainbowing" or rusting. Yes they are expensive but they will last a long time. Also, get the Long Tube headers for an easier install....the Shorties are a pain!!! Plus in my opinion the Long Tubes sound better. If I could go back, I wouldn't have bought the Shorties.

GO WITH BBK ceramic LONG TUBE

HTS is not ceramic. It is crap. To me, I think it looks just like VHT's spray paint. TO keep Mac crap from rusting, I clean them well, lightly sand them, and paint em with BBQ paint.

Jet-Hot or ceramic is the way to go. Jet-Hot will coat them inside and out for around $150.00-$175.00. Even though that may seem like a lot, it is a very wise investment. These are BBK's Jet-Hot coated that are going on my new engine.

Tim

That is one gorgeous set of long tubes! I'm jealous

Ceramic and HTS are apples and oranges, and can't really be compared in the same class. First of all, ceramic coating isn't just for aesthetic and longetivity purposes, it promises a very worthwhile performance benefit. HTS coating, despite the fact that it isn't all it's cracked up to be, is not crap. It actually stands for heat treated stainless, which is a bit deceptive because it is only barely any of them. However, dollar for dollar, you get more benefit PER DOLLAR for your extra $20 for HTS coating than you will paying $150 for Jethot coating. This isn't to say it's as good, it isn't by any stretch of the imagination. Jethot is the ultimate, and nothing else compares. However, even Jethot isn't as indestructable as they'd have you believe, and I have seen first hand in the shop that daily drivers here in New England who have Jethot coated headers do still have a lifespan. They will outlast HTS for years, but for 750% more money, they had better. I have been using HTS MAC exhaust components here for years on my daily driven cars, and I mean daily driven in the rain, snow, sand and salt, 20K miles a year; and if cleaned on a regular basis they hold up far longer than uncoated pipes do. And that is all HTS was intended to do- it isn't even in the same league as ceramic. If it was, MAC wouldn't have any reason to offer ceramic coated headers as well, would they? Thats like putting road course tires on a drag car and saying they are crap becuase they don't hook like slicks. HTS is only supposed to offer more life than bare uncoated steel, and it does- for a few extra dollars it's a bargain. If you want show stopping looks, thermal benefit and superior lifespan, HTS isn't even for sale in the department you should be shopping in. Furthermore, I don't understand the complaints about MAC header installation problems in general- or shorties for that matter. I have installed more long tubes and shorties than I can remember, and I never had a set of long tubes bolt right in without causing a problem somewhere, and I've never had a single issue with shorties. The MAC shorties that I just put on my wifes car last summer went on like a breeze, and still look like the day they were put on. It's all about what you want.

Killer50stang said:

First, I would not recommend MAC headers...especially HTS coating. The right way is ceramic because they can withhold the most heat withing "Rainbowing" or rusting. Yes they are expensive but they will last a long time. Also, get the Long Tube headers for an easier install....the Shorties are a pain!!! Plus in my opinion the Long Tubes sound better. If I could go back, I wouldn't have bought the Shorties.

GO WITH BBK ceramic LONG TUBE

Click to expand...

MAC offers ceramic headers now also and Actually MAC headers arent that bad, ive been running my 1 5/8" LT's for about 7yrs and they go on easily when taken off, i firmly believe 9 out of 10 complaints on MAC products comes down to who is installing them. and you are the ONLY person that has ever said long tubes are easier to install than shorties.


Scott

I have installed a few sets with the engine in and they were not that bad. I am installing BBK's with the engine out, so no biggy. It all depends on the person, but the gain ussually out weighs the install troubles.

Tim

yeah, i changed my shorties in about 2 hours the first time i ever took my stock ones off. took me about 4-5 hours to put my LT's on just because there is no friggin room. i have mac LT's from a fox body and had a bung welded on for emissions. im going to get an hpipe made outta my stock hpipe for emissions so i can keep my LT's on. they are rusty as hell but i personally dont care. ive cleaned them off a few times just cause i was bored but i dont care. i personally just dont care about rust. it might retain a lil more heat but $75 was hard to pass up for an o/r hpipe and LT headers. i never understood chrome headers either

So what is the real difference between LT's and Shorties??

Long tubes are better tuned per cylender, as they are almost always perfectly equal length- they usually have room for better designed collectors to allow greater flow charactersitics, and they tend to sound better (opion).

another thing i remember hearing alot about, is longtubes being too close to starters etc.
and the heat off the headers kill it.

dderek - it's really easy and inexpensive to make a starter shield out of gutter flashing. I know how to do it on that other forum - how in the world do you post a pic on this site? I've checked out the gallery, but can't seem to figure out how to store pics on it. Guidance? I can post a pic of my heat shield....

I know NOTHING about exhaust details. What size headers should I go with? Right now, I believe everything is the stock 1 5/8". I have stock headers with a Flowmaster H pipe.

The stock headers are 1.5" I believe. Unless you are running at least 347 cubes or big forced induction, 1 5/8" is all you'll want.

go with 1 5/8" and get stage 8 locking bolts. will save u a major hassle of re-torquing them. also get some very very good header gaskets. i went with the flowtech gaskets and they havent caused a problem yet.
im also using BBK equal shorties ceramics. they have yet to change color on me after 1 month of usage.