hydraulic clutch bleeding PIA..need suggestions

pazcarguy · Feb 11, 2007

I put together a hydraulic clutch package for my 66 coupe using CNC components from an article I read. Bleeding this thing is a total pain in the ass. I have a Ford Ranger hydraulic reservoir firewall mounted higher than the master and used all CNC 3/4 inch bore master and Slave with a 36" ss flex line between the two. I have been using a Mityvac hand held vacuum pump with inline reservoir connected first to the output of the master, then the other end (non-master end) of the flex hose and finally to the bleeder on the slave. I did this in steps to get the fluid flowing and then connected the components as trying to do it from the bleeder alone was a 1 hour fruitless effort. I finally removed the slave from the tranny for easier access and using the bleeder nipple, ran through 8 full reservoirs and I am still getting air bubbles.Im never let the reservoir go dry. All components are new and I have no leaks that I am aware of. I also had my wife and son pump this thing for minutes at a time and I have only got the slave to move three times but now it doesn't move at all. I am not allowing air to be drawn in when manually bleeding as the bleeder is closed. Has anyone else had this much difficulty. I am short of removing everything minus the master intact and putting the slave as high as I can (tie wrapped to hood) to bleed it this way and then try and snake the bled unit as a whole back to the bottom of the car. Any suggestions

jcode68 · Feb 11, 2007

I feel your pain... Do a search on hydraulic clutch and you will see many others here have been through this process, some with better results than others. The good news is, you will get it bled and once it's done properly, the clutch action and pedal feel is awesome. Again, I would suggest you do a search and spend the next hour reading the threads (some of which are miine). I will tell you that you should avoid using the Mighty Vac for this. First stage should be to gravity bleed with the pedal disconnected from the master cylinder. Also, on your slave, pull the boot off and reach in to pull the cylinder forward almost flush with the end. This will allow the most amount of fluid into the slave. Do both of these before you start to gravity bleed. Read all the threads and post back with any further questions. Good luck and hang in there!

D.Hearne · Feb 11, 2007

I Used to have the same problem with my Ranger. Fill the reservoir, open the bleeder fitting and pressurize the resevoir. Once you have it all full, there will still be air in the system, I've put a long hose off the bleeder fitting up to the level of the reservoir to trap this. After a day or so, bleed this air off. Now if I take the system apart I plug the lines to keep as much fluid there as possible. And it also helps when bleeding the master cylinder to pump the pedal about 50-75 times before cracking the bleeder fitting.

hotrodredneck · Feb 11, 2007

if you are using a ranger set up the problem lies in the master cyl. It lays at an angle and air gets trapped at the top. disconect the master cyl, not the res, and hold it almost upside down and try to depress the cyl. it's a PITA but doable. Once you do that, hook it all back up and bottle bleed the system like you would do a brake system. should be good after that.

do a google search on Ranger/ Explorer clutch bleeding and you will find more of the same advice, it works I know because we had to do it on a buddies explorer.

Hope this helps

jikelly · Feb 11, 2007

That sucks. I have a very similar system that I rigged together myself with no such bleeding problems. In fact I think I've only had to bleed the system twice. I don't remember it taking me that long to bleed the thing either.

http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/jikelly/Tremec page.htm
http://webpages.acs.ttu.edu/jikelly/pictures.htm

pazcarguy · Feb 12, 2007

jcode68 said:
I feel your pain... Do a search on hydraulic clutch and you will see many others here have been through this process, some with better results than others. The good news is, you will get it bled and once it's done properly, the clutch action and pedal feel is awesome. Again, I would suggest you do a search and spend the next hour reading the threads (some of which are miine). I will tell you that you should avoid using the Mighty Vac for this. First stage should be to gravity bleed with the pedal disconnected from the master cylinder. Also, on your slave, pull the boot off and reach in to pull the cylinder forward almost flush with the end. This will allow the most amount of fluid into the slave. Do both of these before you start to gravity bleed. Read all the threads and post back with any further questions. Good luck and hang in there!

pazcarguy · Feb 12, 2007

I wanted to thank everyone for replying. I never had this much trouble bleeding anything but there is always a first. I made a few phone calls today and found some interesting things. I spoke with the owner of CNC and he told me to gravity bleed it verses using the mityvac. I seems that I possibly aerated the brake fluid using the mityvac and when this happens their is nothing you can do but wait. The vacuum can pull the cup seal from the cylinder wall and allow air to entrain in the fluid. (I was at 25 inches of vacuum using vacuum grease to seal the bleeder threads.) He also told me that the master cylinder (CNC brand) could be a problem ac the inlet fitting is not facing straight up. I told him that many people used this setup as they don't want to incur the cost of the JMC unit. He replied that he actually manufactures the JMC unit and sells it exclusively to them but will not sell it to the public. Anyway I am going to gravity bleed this with the pedal disconnected and see how it works. thanks again

hydraulic clutch bleeding PIA..need suggestions

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