Hydraulic Clutch Issues

GrandeStang73 · Mar 14, 2012

I finally got my car started after many headaches... now my t5 won't go into gear. I have a 3/4" wilwood master cylinder and the CNC slave cylinder set-up. I've bleed the system and i believe I am getting enough throw (just over 1 inch). My push rod adjuster nut does seem to come loose after running my car. Not enough pre-load on the throwout bearing??

65fastbackresto · Mar 14, 2012

Call Bruce at Modern Driveline, he does this stuff everyday. 408-394-3944.

69Rcode_Mach1 · Mar 15, 2012

The adjuster nut issue is not one I have run into. It doesn't need much preload, should just rest on the fingers of the pressure plate. It shouldn't be walking out though. I wish you the best of luck in bleeding it, if it's a pain then you are on the right track. I probably spent more time getting all the air bubbles out of that thing than building the engine and swapping it in there. Personally not a fan of the hydraulic clutch at all, cable is so much easier.

GrandeStang73 · Mar 15, 2012

Thanks guys! I guess I will try and bleed the system more... Could you tell me the procedure you used?? I couldnt use a cable set-up in my car, but i did see that came out with a 73 mustang conversion set-up.

GrandeStang73 · Mar 15, 2012

I called modern driveline and all they wanted to do was try and sell me their stuff.... I bought my set-up from daze cars, 3/4" willwood master and the CNC 7/8" bore slave. The master has a 1.4" stroke and the slave has an 1 1/8" stroke, will this set-up work??

chris66dad · Mar 15, 2012

That is close to what I have. You need more preload on the clutch. I adjusted it until I could get it into 1st gear with out any grinding.
I used this from Harbor freight to bleed my system and it did it the first time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html

65fastbackresto · Mar 15, 2012

That surprises me outta Bruce, he must have been in a bad mood or something, the guy is pretty cool 99% of the time.

GrandeStang73 · Mar 16, 2012

Thanks chris, I did put the nut on until there was no play in the clutch fork and then a turn or two. How much pre-load is required?

jcode68 · Mar 16, 2012

Do a forum search on bleeding hydraulic clutch. There are a bunch of threads, some of them mine. If I recall, the amount of travel should be in the range of 1 5/8" or so. Its been about 5 years since I did mine, but I believe the key to bleeding was in the slave cylinder. You need to pull the piston almost to the end of the cylinder and then gravity bleed it a bit before doing the clutch pedal/bleeder screw dance. I will say that once I got it bled, it works perfectly and some 5 years later I haven't had to go back and touch it once. Super easy on the leg and feels like a modern car with the T5 combo. Good luck.

65wildstang · Mar 16, 2012

Had the same setup on my t5 and converted it over to the t56. It did take awhile to properly get bleed. My setup had the shaft and a locknut plus another jam nut. Once I got the preload adjusted I tightened the locknut & jamnut together and haven't had any issues. Good Luck

USAF46270 · Mar 19, 2012

i was going to go with hyd, but iwent with a cable setup from modern driveline, with headers the 351c, it was a nightmare, now with the cable setup, its a piecenof cake

GrandeStang73 · Mar 22, 2012

Just got the hand vacum pump from harbor freight! I'm sure this will help in the bleeding process. How did you "pull" the cylinder out of the slave cylinder?

chris66dad · Mar 22, 2012

I connected the vacuum pump reservoir container to the slave cylinder bleed screw and then to connected the pump to the reservoir. Be sure to have someone up top filling the master cylinder reservoir because it will empty very fast. Do not let the vacuum pump container get more than 1/2 full or let fluid get into the pump.
I did not have to pull or extend the slave cylinder to get the air out of it.

GrandeStang73 · Mar 24, 2012

Thanks chris! I'll be trying out that today, I was thinking of making the slave cylinder and master cylinder a loop with the pump in line. I'll see if it is possible, that would be the best way to bleed anything im sure!

horseballz · Mar 24, 2012

If the bleeder is not directly at the top of the bore/slave cylinder, you will be lucky to EVER get all the air out, even with a pump or pressure bleeder. DAMHIKT! Basic science, air is lighter than hydraulic fluid and that one little F---ing air bubble can get trapped at the top and make the operation spongy/not enough travel (air is squishey, hydraulic fluid, not so much) and you're pooched until the air is GONE!
Just My $.02,
Gene

GrandeStang73 · Mar 25, 2012

I got it going in to gear and rolling!!! after 5 years .... Yes, the bleed screw was on the top of the slave. I bought a dollars worth of vacuum tubing and placed it over the bleed screw and ran it up to the master cylinder!! Just kept pumping up the pedal until I saw no more air bubbles. irate: Time to go pillage some Hondas!!! argh!

chris66dad · Mar 25, 2012

Awesome! Have fun eating some "rice" for lunch.

Hydraulic Clutch Issues

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