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Hydraulic Flat Tappet vs. Hydraulic Roller

  • Thread starter Thread starter nonosstang
  • Start date Start date Mar 8, 2006

Would it be worth the extra money to switch to a hydraulic roller cam?

  • Yes

    Votes: 9 64.3%
  • No

    Votes: 5 35.7%

  • Total voters
    14
  • 1
  • 2
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nonosstang

Founding Member
Nov 9, 2001
142
0
0
Newark, CA
Mar 8, 2006
#1
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #1
I currently have a hydraulic flat tappet cam and wanted to order a new cam today because I'm going to be adding a supercharger in a couple months. So, I was considering doing a retrofit to a hydraulic roller cam.

Would changing over to a roller cam be worth the additional cost? About $400 difference.
 
S

steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
1,180
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36
Frankfort, Ky
Mar 8, 2006
#2
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #2
I think it would definatly be worth it. A roller cam is going to greatly reduce friction. If you do it right, with the link bar lifters, you will gain a lot of hp and torque from the switch and get a better cam profile as well.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
32
109
Austin TX
Mar 8, 2006
#3
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #3
If you are planning on pulling the motor then do the roller-cam. if you intend to install a new cam with the engine in the car then don't. There is monor machining required and it is not a good idea (IMHO) to do such things without a tear-down.
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
3
36
Macon, Ga.
Mar 8, 2006
#4
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #4
there is no machining required unless the dogbone and spider setup is used. Link-bar lifters require no machining 99% of the time, any work that light be needed would be due to excessive casting flash in the lifter valley around the lifter bore.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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south louisiana
Mar 8, 2006
#5
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #5
I voted no, but this only applies to a flat tappet block. If you have a roller block, roller wins everytime. The cost difference is more than $400 to convert. You already have a cam, you'll have to add the new one to the cost. Plus lifters, pushrods, new valve springs, etc.
 

nonosstang

Founding Member
Nov 9, 2001
142
0
0
Newark, CA
Mar 8, 2006
#6
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #6
D.Hearne said:
I voted no, but this only applies to a flat tappet block. If you have a roller block, roller wins everytime. The cost difference is more than $400 to convert. You already have a cam, you'll have to add the new one to the cost. Plus lifters, pushrods, new valve springs, etc.
Click to expand...

Well, I was figuring $400 in my case. I already have the other stuff. I just need a new cam and lifters. The difference in price from Summit is about $350 since I need to get a new cam anyways. Then, another $50 for the retrofit kit.
 

thehueypilot

Active Member
Feb 25, 2004
1,084
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37
Medina,Tennessee
Mar 8, 2006
#7
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #7
You also have to take the heads off to install the new vertical bar lifters.
 

Edbert

Founding Member
Jul 13, 2002
3,548
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Austin TX
Mar 8, 2006
#8
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #8
302 coupe said:
there is no machining required unless the dogbone and spider setup is used. Link-bar lifters require no machining 99% of the time, any work that light be needed would be due to excessive casting flash in the lifter valley around the lifter bore.
Click to expand...
I thought the top of the lifter bores needed clearancing, but I know your level of knowlege on such things and I stand corrected.

:SNSign:
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Mar 8, 2006
#9
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #9
yes the difference is worth the price of admission. faster ramp acceleration rates with the same duration, lower friction, both add up to better performance and fuel economy as well.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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south louisiana
Mar 8, 2006
#10
  • Mar 8, 2006
  • #10
nonosstang said:
Well, I was figuring $400 in my case. I already have the other stuff. I just need a new cam and lifters. The difference in price from Summit is about $350 since I need to get a new cam anyways. Then, another $50 for the retrofit kit.
Click to expand...
Where you going to get a cam AND hydraulic roller lifters for $350 ? Using the factory style lifters in a non roller block also requires using a reduced base circle cam ( that's $350+ there by itself). Using Crane's retrofit lifters ( $425) you can use the std base roller cams ( but a custom blower cam will still set you back more than a std cam will) You will need new pushrods, no getting around that, and those will likely end up being custom jobs too, with all the mixed up parts. You may have done the math, but I've done it too--- several times and fitting a roller cam to a non roller block always came out costing about $600 minimum. Hardly worth the cost differential over a good flat tappet grind. And if you're thinking on using a set of used factory lifters, that's all good, but forget about reving it over 5500 rpms.(just in case you had that in mind)
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
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56
North Carolina
Mar 9, 2006
#11
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #11
I voted no and agree with D. Hearne. To do a retro was going to cost me $700 last time I checked. Maybe something has changed. Besides how much broader of a tq. curve are we talking about; 5-10 lb. ft.? Consider dollar vs. gain. I think it would be better to start with a roller block.
 
S

steel1212

Active Member
Jun 24, 2004
1,180
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36
Frankfort, Ky
Mar 9, 2006
#12
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #12
I think we are missing something here. I don't think he is including the price of the cam in as he needs to get a new one anyway.

"price from Summit is about $350 since I need to get a new cam anyways"

So with that theory it would be about 350$ for the lifters, plus another 100 or so for gaskets.
 

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"
Founding Member
Oct 10, 2001
2,468
86
99
Western Mass
Mar 9, 2006
#13
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #13
I was in the process of gathering up the parts for my rebuild including buying a new flat tappet hydraulic cam and lifters. When I discovered my original block had problems, I dragged home a roller block from the junkyard to rebuild in its place. After comparing the differences, I just ordered a new roller cam and lifters even though I could have used the bought and paid for flat tappet hydraulic in the roller block.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
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#14
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #14
steel1212 said:
I think we are missing something here. I don't think he is including the price of the cam in as he needs to get a new one anyway.

"price from Summit is about $350 since I need to get a new cam anyways"

So with that theory it would be about 350$ for the lifters, plus another 100 or so for gaskets.
Click to expand...
He'd still need to add in at most another $100 for custom pushrods. Prices on off the shelf flat tappet cams are about the same as std base rollers (for 5.0's anyway) in that case, the lifters cost you $425 for Crane's link bars. Using the factory lifters, requires a reduced base cam, that's going to run hum at least what the Crane lifters cost, seeing as he's going to have to go custom with the supercharger application. I don't see where he figured $350 from.
 

nonosstang

Founding Member
Nov 9, 2001
142
0
0
Newark, CA
Mar 9, 2006
#15
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #15
D.Hearne said:
He'd still need to add in at most another $100 for custom pushrods. Prices on off the shelf flat tappet cams are about the same as std base rollers (for 5.0's anyway) in that case, the lifters cost you $425 for Crane's link bars. Using the factory lifters, requires a reduced base cam, that's going to run hum at least what the Crane lifters cost, seeing as he's going to have to go custom with the supercharger application. I don't see where he figured $350 from.
Click to expand...

All I was asking for was some pros and cons about roller vs. hydraulic. . . not for someone to try to prove me wrong. Also, in my first post and poll question, I specifically mentioned ADDITIONAL cost . . . not the total cost. I already have a built 347 with nothing stock in it. I pulled it so I can change the pistons to drop the compression from 10.4 to 8.5. I was considering retrofitting a roller cam in instead since the motor will be torn down and I need a different cam anyways with less lobe separation.

Ok, custom grind cam from Summit (Comp Cams) is about $250 ($363 directly from Comp Cams). Comp Cams lifters from Summit are $240. Comp Cams retrofit kit is about $50. That comes to $540.

A new hydraulic flat tappet cam and lifters would probably be around $175.

Therefore, the difference is $365, when rounded up $400. Like I mentioned before, I don't need new pushrods, valve springs, etc.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 9, 2006
#16
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #16
If you are going with the roller you will need new pushrods regardless, in fact you need custom ones. Take it from me I am doing the swap right now, and stuck on trying to get the right size pushrods, I will have to go custom to get them right. What valve springs on what heads are you running? Mine were fine because they were Victor Jr.'s but the ramp rates combined with high lift will kill a normal spring that isn't designed for the application.
 

nonosstang

Founding Member
Nov 9, 2001
142
0
0
Newark, CA
Mar 9, 2006
#17
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #17
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
If you are going with the roller you will need new pushrods regardless, in fact you need custom ones. Take it from me I am doing the swap right now, and stuck on trying to get the right size pushrods, I will have to go custom to get them right. What valve springs on what heads are you running? Mine were fine because they were Victor Jr.'s but the ramp rates combined with high lift will kill a normal spring that isn't designed for the application.
Click to expand...

Trick Flow heads that I've had reworked. The valve springs are upgraded Isky springs.
 

classic boost

Founding Member
Feb 3, 1999
709
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0
canton, oh
Mar 9, 2006
#18
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #18
nonosstang said:
I don't need new pushrods.
Click to expand...
unless you have a set for a hyd roller cam lying around, then yes, you do need new pushrods.

back to your original question,
pros- more aggressive ramps, higher revs, no break in.
cons- extra cost, removal of head to install lifters.
 
J

jbuening

Member
Apr 28, 2005
399
0
17
Mar 9, 2006
#19
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #19
Maybe someone else here can remember, but there was a recent magazine article with dyno comparisons of a roller and non-roller cam motors with all else being the same and i think it was around 10-20hp difference and it was at a very high rpm, one that wouldn't notice it if it were a street driven car. Can't for the life of me remember what magazine that article was from though but it was written by David Vizard IIRC. Below is a site mentioning some roller conversion lifters for flat tappet cams. Pretty price though

http://www.revsearch.com/dynamometer/rollervsflattappet.html

Aha, found the post that referenced the article : http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=5847380#post5847380
 

302 coupe

Founding Member
Mar 2, 2000
1,952
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36
Macon, Ga.
Mar 9, 2006
#20
  • Mar 9, 2006
  • #20
Edbert said:
I thought the top of the lifter bores needed clearancing, but I know your level of knowlege on such things and I stand corrected.

:SNSign:
Click to expand...


I've never done a spider/dogbone style swap, but I have heard of people having to grind/flatten the top of the lifter bore area for the dogbones to sit flush. Plus, of course, tapping the holes for the spider, unless you do the nut-sert things. Just what I've heard though.

I have only done 2 link-bar style conversions to date, both were Comp solid roller setups with the link-bars, they just dropped right in. Pushrods will need to be checked, and you'll always need stronger valvesprings than you would with a flat tappet cam, but thats about the extent of it.

Roller cams typically make more torque, but there isn't much horsepower difference over a solid flat tappet cam with similar specs. My guess is because of added valvetrain mass and spring tension. Theoretically, the lobe style of the roller cam should do everything better than a flat tappet cam, but thats not quite how it works.
 
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