Hypergrounding?

Gyronictonic

New Member
Mar 16, 2004
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i came upon the issue of "Hypergrounding" where you basically change the ground wires w/ better ones. it would make sense that it increases effiency to the lights, etc but i keep reading stuff like giving better torque, HP, and gas mileage. Is that true? can someone clarify this cuz i find it hard to believe.
 
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there is no way a thicker ground cable could give you power or better mileage. if you have a decent size (wattage) sound system, it can help with dimming and overall output, but that is the only time its really a worthwhile upgrade, imo.
 
iwannarace67 said:
I've seen real dynos at school...they work. Saw gains from from 5 to 10HP depending on the car.

Were the factory wires on the car about to fall off? I could see this making a big difference if you have a bad ground and crappy plug wires.

Let's see: Hyper Ground, Nology Wires, Tornado... now were really haulin' a$$.
 
I'm sorry I must be missing something but this seems rediculous.
How many HP does your alternator take? 10? and wether it's being used or not it takes 10hp right? better gas mileage from wires give me a break. the only thing drawing HP in your electrical system is the alternator right?
 
Of course they demonstrate on a Civic.
The only improvement I could see is crom a better grounded coil, allowing better spark. The engine ground on a Honda is a joke. And most are about to fall off anyway. But 5hp could just be dyno error.
I think the only thing it will improve is cold start.
 
Why couldnt it give you an increase in hp and tq. How many cars are running around with inadequate grounds? I believe a large percentage of cars would see a slight increase in hp and tq based solely on a new ground wire. :)
:lol:

Just being devils advocate. I can see maybe getting a very minute increase on a car that had increased resistance based solely on ground wires. But any car taht would see any significant improvement would probably not be running well enough to throw on a dyno. Of course im a newb so I could be totally off
 
That's pretty gay... I must have made 20HP because I used 1/0 GA wires to ground the battery directly to the engine and body. LOL

If you want to test, just use a multi-reader to see what resistance you have from your negative battery post to the body and engine.
 
The problem with most Mustangs is that the vital engine to chassis ground from the back of the engine to the chassis is often missing or damaged.

Cars with the 130 amp alternator upgrade NEED an additional 4 gauge ground wire run from the engine block to the common battery ground on the chassis near the battery. This insures that all the alternator current isn't being carried by the two 10 gauge ground wires that are part of the stock setup. With a 130 amp alternator, these wires are way too small to do the job.

The computer also must have good grounds to function properly. It has its' own dedicated ground wire from the battery to the computer. If this ground becomes damaged or corroded, performance will suffer.

Above all, remember that heat & time do damage to wiring and connections. High resistance connections will overheat and fail. With the newest fox body Mustang checking in at 11 years old and the original 5.0 fox at 25 years old, the wiring is starting to show signs of old age and poor connections on many cars. The results are intermittent problems that are difficult to find and fix.
 
jrichker said - "It has its' own dedicated ground wire from the battery to the computer."

Is this a particular pin or pins on the A9L computer? Since mine is a conversion, with a battery relocate, I'd like to reinforce that grounding on mine. I've run a 10gauge wire from the negative terminal up to the sheet metal screw/cable ground coming out of the computer case, but I now suspect that's just a case ground. Where do I need to 'tap it' in order to run that 10 gauge so that it truly grounds the computer, emulating the factory dedicated ground set up?

As for the topic of the thread, following jrichker's sound advice will return your car to the condition it came in from the factory if you've had degradation over the years. But I'd be skeptical of significant power gains compared with a properly functioning grounding system.

Unless of course you add a tornado when you hyperground. Together, you're surely looking at 400HP and 50 mpg.
 
Michael Yount said:
jrichker said - "It has its' own dedicated ground wire from the battery to the computer."

Is this a particular pin or pins on the A9L computer? Since mine is a conversion, with a battery relocate, I'd like to reinforce that grounding on mine. I've run a 10gauge wire from the negative terminal up to the sheet metal screw/cable ground coming out of the computer case, but I now suspect that's just a case ground. Where do I need to 'tap it' in order to run that 10 gauge so that it truly grounds the computer, emulating the factory dedicated ground set up?

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

The ECC pinout shows pins 40 & 60 as the computer power ground pins.
 
Yep, it's the wierd looking ground wire out by the starter solenoid with the inline fuse looking connector, black and yellow stripe if memory serves.

As to this thread;

Hyper Ground System
This system provides direct ground path from battery negative to body, chassis, and engine components to give extreme improvement on electrical circulation. In addition Hyper Ground System cables have 10 times less impedance than factory ground systems which provides immaculate conduction to prevent electrical power loss. The higher resistance of factory grounds, effect the ignition system and obstructs the primary potential.
The Hyper Ground System uses thick gauge 99.99 percent pure copper, and connects directly from the cylinder head and other points under the hood to the battery, to provide an ultra low resistance connection. This will increase the primary potential of regular cars to ignition tuned vehicles.

Just read it you can tell it's BS... electrical circulation? 10 times less impedance? immaculate conduction. WTF?

Jamie
 
Ranchero5.0 said:
This will increase the primary potential of regular cars to ignition tuned vehicles.

I guess once you go past the point of having an "ignition tuned" vehicle it does you no good. ????

I still don't buy into the whole thing -- I see having a good ground to the chassis from things as being necessary, but not putting thicker gauge wires on to increase power. Of all the things the factories do in an effort to win the horsepower wars and fuel economy wars, etc...am I the only one who thinks that using a thicker gauge ground wire would have come up somewhere???