I am looking at a 2004 GT, let me know if this is the wrong place to post...

It's really hard to beat the value of a 2V PI GT, they're so cheap and can be in the 12s with bolt-ons.

get a mach 1. its worth it just for the seats

GToddyT5 said:

erroneous

Stock for stock, it's a driver's race. Modded Mach 1 vs stock GTO, I wouldn't go as far to say "easily". If that GTO is modded, it's trouble.

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This makes no sense. Stock for stock, a driver's race, but modded Mach vs. stock GTO, the Mach won't win easily. Did I ever mention the GTO being modded? No.

Crzyhrse said:

This makes no sense. Stock for stock, a driver's race, but modded Mach vs. stock GTO, the Mach won't win easily. Did I ever mention the GTO being modded? No.

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What about that was difficult to understand? With the cars being that close in performance, basic bolt-ons isn't going to make a Mach 1 walk a GTO. A few tenths isn't easily. With a consistent driver, yes, but otherwise, it can be made up for.

65fastback2+2 said:

I know I love my mach...and it eats GTO's...last GTO I saw run at the track was consistent 13.7's.

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So I guess he needs to run 12.7's to include the word "easily" in his sentence. OK, my mistake.

Ohio B7 said:

What stock dyno numbers does the 04 GT put down? I searched, but it seems a stock GT is hard to come by on this site. lol. Also, what does that translate into 1/4 mile times. I was always under the impression that 5 speed GTs are in the mid to high 14s with factory freaks dipping into the low 14s. Am I wrong?

I am not going to get a 4V. The Mach 1 is too expensive with low miles and I want a car as new as possible. I am fine with 2Vs and the potential for up to 400 reliable hp.

Also, bringing up that the GT engine doesnt require timing belt services is an excellent point. Are there any big services these cars require? I know the TB on a 2002 A4 is about a 1k job and required at around 75k.

The GTO is a great car, and so is the Mach. I would be lucky to own either.

Also, the GTO forum is usually very slow, this board seems to be very active.

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mid to low 14's, some dip at 13.9

I feel that TB change, almost at a 120K and my thermostat is going bad, need to remove the tb for that, the mustang doesn't need alot of service, idle air controlers are bad from time to time but nothing really to worry about


This forum is hopping alot :SNSign:

Stick with the Mach over the LS2 GTO, I drove my buddies goat at the track (he was to young to drive it ) I couldnt get it any faster then a 13.89, its an automatic but still 400hp and a 13.89? Never drove a Mach but I rode in one, definitely faster than the gto IMO

Ohio B7 said:

You have to remember that there are two GTO engines. the 350hp LS1 that is a good match for a Mach 1 and the 400hp LS2 that could easily put a stock Mach in its place.

I also have read that the GTO has launching problems because of axle hop, and that it is tough to get a wide tire under the rear because of the depth of the wheel well. Also, there arent alot of aftermarket wheels that fit them either. All of that makes launching them harder than the mustang. Both GTOs though have greater displacement than the mustangs so highway rolls prob arent a good idea for the Machs either, unless there are some serious power adders.

If you really can get a Mach for 16 with 35k, I am game, but not for 18. Someone has a 6k mile Mach 50 miles away for just under 20K. Does anyone know of Machs going for that kind of coin? 35k miles 5 speed for about 16 in exelent shape?

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GTO are fatt pigs they feel like a powerful bus but check this out

http://www.internetautoguide.com/usedcars/24-int/ford/mustang/mach-1/index.html

Coming from a blown 2v, I'd say go for (in this order):

LS2 GTO
Mach 1
LS1 GTO
2v

The LSx engines just have so much potential with the heads/cam options out there it's ridiculous. Buddy of mine has TEA Ported TFS Heads-ECS Cam and they are a big reason why he is putting down just shy of 500rwhp N/A while still being very streetable and on the stock sb. You are not going to get that from a Mustang mod motor (especially 2v) w/o F/I, internals, and fuel. Each vehicle has it's positives (you could even go for a 01 2v w/ 60k miles on it, slap a KB and have an instant 400rwhp for less than $18k. Problem is you would already be behind the curve in terms of suspension. So there is always something... btw my 2v dyno'd 231rwhp stock which unfortunately is above avg. for a bone stock dyno.


Edit: Gotta love the the VW/Audi 2.0T, able to extract a pretty decent amount of power with very little (have an 06 2.0T Passat as the DD)

Well if this helps i smoked a mach1 at the track last year 2 times and mine doesn't have that much in it yet.

Lots of good advice, with some bad here and there also. Honestly, I think it's best to keep an open mind when sizing up cars, especially if you've never owned one.

A GT is certainly the best deal, you can get a very new car for cheap. But, I think it's very very important that you at least drive, if you haven't already, a IRS mustang, so you can appreciate it a little. To be honest, the live axle is the only thing I absolutely hate about my car. That plus the 4V is good enough reason to consider, but if you absolutely must save the money, for 15k I'm not sure you'll find a better car than a GT, but be sure and buy a set of springs, make it your first mod, to help with the ackward rear end traveling around.

Not to judge anyone or anything, but I really doubt the B7 could take out a PI 4.6, if they are raced perfectly. I don't own one myself, but my friend bought a '06 A4 B7 S-Trim, very nice car, I love it. I've driven it quite a bit, he lets me use it when he comes down to PA. Anyways, though certainly quick, and probably my favorite engine ever built, doesn't seem like it's enough to take out a stang, not stock anyways. He has the, I can't really remember now, I think APR 93, software, um, some exhaust work, suspension and brakes, cold air, and some other misc stuff. I love mustangs as much as the next guy, but if I were you I'd keep the Audi, or if you can have both, and keep the stang for fun, like I did, then go with the cheaper GT.

Also, from my own, personal experience, a PI GT will run with a GTO, though highway runs will lean toward the GTO, and a bolt on GT or Mach1 can easily run with the 400hp version, they're "extremely" heavy, people don't always account for this. Anyways it's not like I've driven 100 of them, I'm just saying from the few I've seen here at our local airport. There's a nice black one that comes a lot, it's all stock, beats most cars no doubt, but if my car can keep up they can't be too fast. I'm not a great driver either, good I guess, I dunno, but he got me by a hood lenth the first race, the second race I got him by 2 cars, and I was pulling pretty hard. Though I'll be the first to admit, my car seems to pull better than what's typical on the highway, always has dunno why.

It's been my experience that each car can be very different from the next. Of the mustangs I've owned, no two ran anywhere near the same, all different.

If you get a mustang, get a Mach 1. Otherwise do suspension work right away, because going from a B7 to a GT is going to drive you insane.

for a daily driver i would take a gto over a sn-95 mustang any day. Im lucky and can have my cobra and not have to dd it and drive anything on my lot that i want.