• Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

I did something stupid -- snapped off the dipstick tube

  • Thread starter Thread starter Takt
  • Start date Start date Apr 15, 2005

Takt

Member
Jul 14, 2004
48
0
6
Madison, WI
Apr 15, 2005
#1
  • Apr 15, 2005
  • #1
On my 66, 302, I was working on getting the water pump out. I took off the alternator, set it aside and accidently snapped off the dipstick tube. Of course, it snapped off flush so I can't get anything around the tube. I tried to tap it, but that didn't work.

So, short of dropping the oil pan and coming back up from the bottom, any ideas?

I'm not a car guy by nature (surprise, surprise with this mistake huh?) But, man I really like working on them!

Thanks.
 

YellowMach69

Founding Member
Aug 5, 2002
371
0
16
buffalo new york
Apr 15, 2005
#2
  • Apr 15, 2005
  • #2
I recieved an engine like that before , what i did was insert a screwdriver in hole and bent half of the tube over and then used needle nosed pliers to pull it out along with some heat like a burnsamatic,Whala it came out slowly , be patient
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Apr 15, 2005
#3
  • Apr 15, 2005
  • #3
I'd be very careful with any heat near the aluminum timing chain cover. I'd be more inclined to try sharpening a flat screwdriver to try to drive it in between the aluminum cover and the steel dipstick tube. The worst that could happen is that you'd risk knocking the piece into the pan, then you could use solvent to try to flush it out the drain plug hole. Ain't working on old cars fun? Seriously, I'd much rather work on my '68 than ANY modern computer-controlled car. You can fix old tech with common sense, a hammer and a file. New cars require a degree and $50,000 worth of tools.
 
A

a.vannoy

New Member
Apr 13, 2005
90
0
0
Apr 15, 2005
#4
  • Apr 15, 2005
  • #4
tweezers- big a$$ tweezers or needle nose pliers
 

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
4,933
101
124
Seattle
Apr 15, 2005
#5
  • Apr 15, 2005
  • #5
How about getting a large bolt extractor? I've never tried it with something that was press fit, but it may help break the end of the tube loose enough to plier it out
 

67coupe351w

New Member
Jan 31, 2004
424
0
0
Portland, OR
Apr 16, 2005
#6
  • Apr 16, 2005
  • #6
vristang said:
How about getting a large bolt extractor? I've never tried it with something that was press fit, but it may help break the end of the tube loose enough to plier it out
Click to expand...

Sounds like the winning idea to me
 

Loup-garou

Founding Member
Aug 11, 2001
337
0
16
New Orleans, LA
Apr 17, 2005
#7
  • Apr 17, 2005
  • #7
zookeeper said:
I'd be very careful with any heat near the aluminum timing chain cover. I'd be more inclined to try sharpening a flat screwdriver to try to drive it in between the aluminum cover and the steel dipstick tube. The worst that could happen is that you'd risk knocking the piece into the pan, then you could use solvent to try to flush it out the drain plug hole. Ain't working on old cars fun? Seriously, I'd much rather work on my '68 than ANY modern computer-controlled car. You can fix old tech with common sense, a hammer and a file. New cars require a degree and $50,000 worth of tools.
Click to expand...

Well, I'm not sure that's the *worst* that could happen. Trying to drive anything between the steel dipstick tube and the aluminum timing cover could well split the aluminum casting. Ideally, that stub of steel tubing should be carefully driven out from underneath. It should be possible to do it with the timing cover on the car. Dropping the oil pan is no fun, but it's better than buggering up the timing cover (or dropping metal chips in the oil sump).

In my experience, more than a hammer and a file are required to fix these cars. A Phillips-head screwdriver and a Crescent wrench are must-haves!
 

84convertablegt

New Member
Nov 6, 2004
589
0
0
Columbus, OH
Apr 17, 2005
#8
  • Apr 17, 2005
  • #8
In my experience, more than a hammer and a file are required to fix these cars. A Phillips-head screwdriver and a Crescent wrench are must-haves!
Click to expand...
A 9/16, 1/2, and 5/8" socket will do it all. plus, on what other car can you remove the rear valance, bumper, etc. in 3 minutes? i love working on my car. i always think everythings gonna be hard, then i do it and im like, "that was it?"
 

zookeeper

Founding Member
Aug 25, 2001
3,415
63
109
Rogue River, Oregon
Apr 17, 2005
#9
  • Apr 17, 2005
  • #9
Ain't that the truth! When I pop the hood on my Suburban, it takes me 5 minutes to find the dipstick, which is the only thing I have the knowledge to operate under there. I kid you not, I tried to install a new water pump a couple years back on the Suburban and lacked the specialty tools to do it! The fan threads onto the water pump, rather than being held on my the tradional 4 bolts, and you can't get the fan and pump off as a unit. I have built complete cars, frame included, yet I didn't have the technology to do even the simplest repair on that thing! I LOVE my '68!!!!
 

YellowMach69

Founding Member
Aug 5, 2002
371
0
16
buffalo new york
Apr 17, 2005
#10
  • Apr 17, 2005
  • #10
It all depends on how hard its in there, most distick tubes are pressed in ,But not that hard, Just getting ahold of the lip and pulling should be enough, Trying to use extactors, will somthimes enlarge the tube on the inside even more and causing the tube to be even tighter than it was.Id say use my method first then ,try others, A little propane torch isnt gonna damage it like your thinking.I said to use alittle heat ,not get it to some degree its gonna distort the aluminim
 
L

limey66

Member
Sep 23, 2004
408
0
16
Northampton, England
Apr 17, 2005
#11
  • Apr 17, 2005
  • #11
Is it a clean break? I would imagine if you bent the tube, it would crimp closed (to a degree) before shearing off... If that were so I'd try and drift a terminal sized screwdriver between the tube and the hole at the meatiest part of the casting, then pry it out.
 

WORTH

20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 18, 2002
2,166
44
98
Cape Cod, Ma.
Apr 17, 2005
#12
  • Apr 17, 2005
  • #12
use a bolt tap, run the tap in until it's tight and pull it out with a visegrip.
 

Takt

Member
Jul 14, 2004
48
0
6
Madison, WI
Apr 17, 2005
#13
  • Apr 17, 2005
  • #13
Thanks guys -

It snapped flush -- so I can't get vice grips or needle-nose plyers on it. I tried the tap -- but the farther in I went, the more pressue it put between the tube and the hole -- so I couldn't get it extracted. The fire thing would be cool -- but my in-experience would probably make me shy away from that. Right now it has a plug in it (aoy... ). I can't get anything between the tube and hole. I tried to get a "c" shapped pick in there to pull back out, but couldn't get enough leverage.

I really appeciate all the advise! I'll need more, so I hope you all don't mind newbie's asking questions (even if they are stupid).

Thanks
 
L

limey66

Member
Sep 23, 2004
408
0
16
Northampton, England
Apr 18, 2005
#14
  • Apr 18, 2005
  • #14
Can you drop the sump with the engine in situ? You might then be able to drift it up from below.
 
M

mustangman70

Founding Member
Dec 30, 2001
1,235
1
0
St pete, Florida
Aug 10, 2005
#15
  • Aug 10, 2005
  • #15
Allright i had this happen to me, it wasent that i snapped it moving it, i was trying to get it out! and it would pull up, mine also broke flush and i tried all of the above methods and i was shocked and scared i thought i had really ****ed something up, so this is what i did, i guess i wouldent RECOMEND this, but what i di ws took a drill, and "drilled" the **** out of there, i mean the hole didnt get ANY bigger then stock because the drill bit was that size, i then immediatly drained the oil and made sure all shavings were not around the hole as best as i could, the cars been running for allmost a year now with no pronlems but i could have gotten lucky i guess,,,,,
 
G

gevalia

New Member
May 18, 2004
20
0
0
Aug 10, 2005
#16
  • Aug 10, 2005
  • #16
Cold rod

I've had luck on problems like this with cold. Take a metal rod that fits fairly snug in the hold. Put it in the freezer for 10 minutes. Then put it down their and as the cold spreads, you should be able to pull it out easy.
 
1

10secgoal

Active Member
Dec 1, 2003
2,801
3
49
San Diego
Aug 10, 2005
#17
  • Aug 10, 2005
  • #17
gevalia said:
I've had luck on problems like this with cold. Take a metal rod that fits fairly snug in the hold. Put it in the freezer for 10 minutes. Then put it down their and as the cold spreads, you should be able to pull it out easy.
Click to expand...

That's not a bad idea. But you've already got the pump off, what's a few more bolts to remove the cover ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Progress Thread mnky99 2001 V6 evap core, ac compressor, heater core replacement
  • mnky99
  • Sep 5, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
1
Views
522
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Sep 5, 2025
mnky99
M
6
Hey all,I’m putting together a 302 for my 1968 Mustang and wanted to post the combo + some questions to make sure I’m not missing crucial
  • 68_Disgustang
  • Feb 22, 2026
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
923
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Jun 20, 2026
gray owl
G
Place to Avoid: Jamison Auto Group in Gulfport, MS
  • D Durden
  • Oct 20, 2025
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • 2 3
Replies
46
Views
3K
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Jul 16, 2026
Noobz347
Fuel Replacing the Plastic Factory Fuel Line Push on Connectors
  • AeroCoupe
  • Mar 16, 2023
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2
Replies
28
Views
27K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Mar 23, 2023
rednotch
Engine Today I found air leaks on 2 different IAC's which caused erratic idle issues.
  • CAMTWO1070
  • Oct 15, 2022
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
1K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Oct 15, 2022
General karthief
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?