The part I failed was the, NO(PPM) portion. At 15mph, the MAX is 785 amd I got 1328 and at 25mph the MAX is 724 and I got 730. All of my other numbers where just fine. So what does this mean? The guy at the test only center said it could possibly be my O2 Sensors. Should I go ahead and change them out and try again? I am running the MAC High Flow 2 Cat H-pipe. Should I just put on the Stocker 4 Cat H-pipe and try again? What can anyone recommend that I do? Thanks in advance for all replies!
I failed Ca smog today, need help!
- Thread starter 92greenlx
- Start date
Mavrick
Founding Member
in mass. which is almost as strict as ca. they make you spend up to $250. to fix the prob. if that does'nt do you can get a waiver.look into it,spend the dough on the stuff you'll need anyway,see what happens. if you dont pass get a waiver. friends with *****boxes here have done it (these are cars they just need to drive to get around ,not a 5.0,no offence to your car). as long as its not blowing tons of smoke out the rear and emissions stuff is in place it might work out there.
timewarped1972
Member
yes make sure your timing is at 10, run the 87 octane as mentioned, also, i dont know if they sell it in ca but there's this stuff called guarenteed to pass that you put in your tank thats suppoed to help. i've used it in sevral vehicles and it helped. also, make sure your plugs, oil, and air filer and pvc valve are all clean, that stuff can make a big difference. id think if you have high flow cats those would work as well or better than old stockers. make sure the cars warmed up good before the test thats what makes the cats work.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
No offense to anyone (seriously), but if you dont live in CA or havent recently smogged a car here, your advice doesnt really apply. Throwing money and parts at the problem also isnt a guarantee a fix. There are no limits on repair cost. There are options of you cant afford them, but if you can then you're SOL if it fails a second time. Then it is labeled a gross polluting vehicle. That is really bad.
Anyway, check out the EGR system to make sure it all is working correctly. Its sole purpose is to reduce nitrogen oxides in the exhaust. I suppose it could be running a hair rich and getting the cats hot, but then there is usually a high HC reading too.
I have heard great horror stories and UFO-type sighting of them, but never actually saw one. Well, last week I saw a roadside smog inspection setup for the first time. I almost drove my car that day.....with no cats and that punk kid hotrod sound. I would have been flagged soooo fast...
Anyway, check out the EGR system to make sure it all is working correctly. Its sole purpose is to reduce nitrogen oxides in the exhaust. I suppose it could be running a hair rich and getting the cats hot, but then there is usually a high HC reading too.
I have heard great horror stories and UFO-type sighting of them, but never actually saw one. Well, last week I saw a roadside smog inspection setup for the first time. I almost drove my car that day.....with no cats and that punk kid hotrod sound. I would have been flagged soooo fast...
Thanks for the info 72Bronko. I installed them to work with heads and a cam which I hope to have purchased and installed by the end of the year.
My HC(PPM) Max at 15mph is 114 and i got 51. The Max at 25mph is 88 and I got 14. I think I am just gonna go ahead and install my New O2 Sensors and buy a New EGR Valve and install that as well. I have a New Cap and Rotor on, New Plug Wires on, New Plugs in and I recently Cleaned my K&N Filter. Oh and I recently installed a New IAC Valve. Yesterday after failing I bought that guaranteed to pass stuf and poured it in. I have to use up all of the gas then fill it back up and test again. My timing is at 12deg now, so I should put it back to 10deg? The drive to this place is like 5-7 minutes from my house. I started the car up and went straight there. I am wondering if maybe my cats didnt get hot enough? Thanks for all of the info and help everybody!
My HC(PPM) Max at 15mph is 114 and i got 51. The Max at 25mph is 88 and I got 14. I think I am just gonna go ahead and install my New O2 Sensors and buy a New EGR Valve and install that as well. I have a New Cap and Rotor on, New Plug Wires on, New Plugs in and I recently Cleaned my K&N Filter. Oh and I recently installed a New IAC Valve. Yesterday after failing I bought that guaranteed to pass stuf and poured it in. I have to use up all of the gas then fill it back up and test again. My timing is at 12deg now, so I should put it back to 10deg? The drive to this place is like 5-7 minutes from my house. I started the car up and went straight there. I am wondering if maybe my cats didnt get hot enough? Thanks for all of the info and help everybody!
Step one...
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Step two...
Fix what the computer spits out for codes.
No codes - doubtful, since many owners delight in disconnecting the smog equipment, wrongly thinking it will make more power.
High NO figures are the result of high combustion temps. Some gasahol or ethyl alcohol added to the fuel may help reduce combustion temps, along with retarding the timing.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Step two...
Fix what the computer spits out for codes.
No codes - doubtful, since many owners delight in disconnecting the smog equipment, wrongly thinking it will make more power.
High NO figures are the result of high combustion temps. Some gasahol or ethyl alcohol added to the fuel may help reduce combustion temps, along with retarding the timing.
bln92cpe
New Member
Hey, I am from CA too and took my LX to get smogged last week..I passed emissions flying colors, my score was like as low as an electric vehicle, however I failed the visual because my mechanic didn't install the PCV valve and 4 or 5 vacuum hoses were missing..The smog dude said fix the hoses and he will give me my certificates.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
High combustion temperatures contribute to higher NOx - so your changes should be aimed at reducing combustion temps; but be careful, because as you lower the temps, CO and HC will increase. Bring the timing back to stock 8 or 10 degrees btdc. If you have a 192/5 t'stat in it, a 180 might help. If you have electric fans and can reduce the temp that they come on down towards the t'stat temp that should help. As other said, a well functioning egr system is designed specifically to reduce NOx - pull the codes and see if it's working. If the air pumps not on the car - you may need to put it back on. Excess oxygen in the exhaust system is needed to complete the chemical reactions that reduce NOx, CO, and HC. Lastly, are you certain the high flow cats you put on are 3-way cats? Some cats treat for all 3 controlled emissions; some don't. If the cats you have don't treat the NOx - you could have a problem reaching the lower limit.
runningmole
Founding Member
Will the computer show codes even if the CE light doesn't come on? We fail automatically if the CE light is on. You should pass w/ the Guaranteed to pass you poured in. Don't ask me how I know 
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Well, I installed a New EGR Valve earlier. I still need to install my O2 Sensors. Once I install them I am gonna Set my Timing back to 10deg. I already have a 180deg T-Stat in. There's a shop close to me that will do a pre test smog. So that's where I will go 1st before I go back to the TEST ONLY place.
MustangMulch
New Member
Man i'm sorry to hear about your bad luck with smog. You're scaring me since I have to get smogged a few months down the road. I got my car tested when I bought the car about a year and a half ago and it passed with flying colors, so i think i'll be ok.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
YellowLightning
New Member
Try that Guaranteed To Pass additive. If it doesn't work, they will give you double your money back.
I live in CA and failed pretty bad once. I gave it a full tune up, replacing the PCV and changed the oil. Got an adjustable FPR and leaned out out. Still drivable, but not a lot of power, and turned the timing to 9* I think in CA you are allowed to be within 2 degrees. also, if you can adjust your idle, you can go to 1000 rpm before you get in trouble, bump it up to 800 or 900. Idle, if you have a pref. cam, is where there will be the HC. I have heard the most NOx comes from the EGR and through burning oil. Does your car consume oil? But like a previous post said, if you don't have the right CATS, your hosed. We need SMOG control in CA, try jogging on a summer day in the valey or in the LA area and you will understand. Nothing quite like seeing the brown layer blanketing the city...
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