I need a new project! (Turbo?)
- Thread starter 1slow95
- Start date
Black Stampede
Founding Member
I want the 33 Hot Rod from Factory Five!
'33 Hot Rod
What I would do is take my combo out of #77 could you imagine 650RWHP and 2000lbs???
Then I would build a new World products Aluminum block stroker than can be up to 460CI and the block weighs only 108lbs! Throw on some of their big port heads and a Vortech YSi supercharger and a 6 speed into the Saleen!!
MAN O'WAR Aluminum Small Block Ford Engine Blocks
That SEMA '33 is HOT. I love that car.
What did you decide Mike? I decided to throw high flow cats on and a smaller cam. Slower - no. Based on my predictions I will still have a boatload of TQ and still come out over 400rwhp. It should actually be faster or rather quicker and more friendly in my driveability range. 
And it won't cost me an arm and a leg to enjoy my car!
And it won't cost me an arm and a leg to enjoy my car!
MysteryMachine
Active Member
He mentioned to me about borrowing my tweecer so I think he wants to try to tune it and see what happens
Mike 
You need a tune
Check that ... You need a G O O D tune :Word:
I only have a perspective of
One who does it himself
I had to work on my tune (the drivability part) a good bit to get it
all squared away
I think if you found a tuner who understood your concerns for
NON WOT issues
You'd be suprised how civil your current setup could be
I'd wanna be sure he had some kind of reasonable condition in place
for a return to work out any drivability issues he might have missed
on his first attempt to tune out the gremlins.
Actually ... My first & favorite method ... TUNE IT YOURSELF
Grady
You need a tune
Check that ... You need a G O O D tune :Word:
I only have a perspective of
One who does it himself
I had to work on my tune (the drivability part) a good bit to get it
all squared away
I think if you found a tuner who understood your concerns for
NON WOT issues
You'd be suprised how civil your current setup could be
I'd wanna be sure he had some kind of reasonable condition in place
for a return to work out any drivability issues he might have missed
on his first attempt to tune out the gremlins.
Actually ... My first & favorite method ... TUNE IT YOURSELF
Grady
The guy I had tune the car does good work, I just don't think he tunes many 94-95's. And I'm sure he would have helped me work out any problems with the tune, but the problem is he's over 2 hours away from me. I don't like driving my car that far, which is something I want to fix.
Right now I'm debating between building a Daytona kit car or turbo'ing my car. I like the Daytona because it's a big project that will keep me busy for a while, it's unique, it weighs in around 2200 pounds, and I'm sure handling and braking are much better than the Mustang. The problem is it's expensive and I would have to sell my Mustang.
Type 65 Coupe
I'm still researching the turbo project. My main concerns with it is that I will need a big expensive fuel system. And if I need an aftermarket ECU to make it run right that's another huge expense. The low compression short block will be kind of expensive too, but I can offset that cost by selling my old short block. Selling my old headers and exhaust should give me enough to cash to build most of the turbo kit, minus the turbo. If I do this, what I would do is replace the short block and cam and run it NA for a year or two while I round up the rest of the parts.
Also, Jinx said he might let me borrow his tweecer since he's not using it right now. If I can get my car running perfect with it I might just decide to keep it the way it is.
Right now I'm debating between building a Daytona kit car or turbo'ing my car. I like the Daytona because it's a big project that will keep me busy for a while, it's unique, it weighs in around 2200 pounds, and I'm sure handling and braking are much better than the Mustang. The problem is it's expensive and I would have to sell my Mustang.
Type 65 Coupe
I'm still researching the turbo project. My main concerns with it is that I will need a big expensive fuel system. And if I need an aftermarket ECU to make it run right that's another huge expense. The low compression short block will be kind of expensive too, but I can offset that cost by selling my old short block. Selling my old headers and exhaust should give me enough to cash to build most of the turbo kit, minus the turbo. If I do this, what I would do is replace the short block and cam and run it NA for a year or two while I round up the rest of the parts.
Also, Jinx said he might let me borrow his tweecer since he's not using it right now. If I can get my car running perfect with it I might just decide to keep it the way it is.
Black Stampede
Founding Member
No offense but I think it would be ridiculous to not just make it right as is and go from there. You have a very nice motor that makes lots of power already in your car and it just needs a few bugs worked out. DO IT!! Nuff said.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
get a daytona = get another car. and you said in an earlier post that you have room for only 1 car, so .... are you talking about getting rid of the stang and putting down 30-40 grand for this? cause that is what it sounds like to me.
i have drooled over those FF cars for years now. they are definately the $hit as far as i am concerned.
dude, i think you should dump the longtubes, get a good tune, and make the stang a car you love to drive. take the 30 grand for the daytona and buy some stock in a company whose stock has taken a beating in this market. in a year or 2, that 30 grand will be more like 50 grand. then cash in and go shopping.
i have drooled over those FF cars for years now. they are definately the $hit as far as i am concerned.
dude, i think you should dump the longtubes, get a good tune, and make the stang a car you love to drive. take the 30 grand for the daytona and buy some stock in a company whose stock has taken a beating in this market. in a year or 2, that 30 grand will be more like 50 grand. then cash in and go shopping.
Yes I would have to sell the stang to fund a daytona project. I first read that 30 or 40 grand line and thought there's no way I'll have close to 30 grand in it.... Then I started doing some math and it looks like to build the car the way I want to it'll run between 20 to 25 grand easily. If I manage to get 10k out of my stang and some other stuff, I'll still need an additional 10-15k at least. I don't quite think I can afford that yet. 
So **** it, I'll keep the stang for a little while longer. I really want to do a turbo build though, so I'll keep looking into that.
My boss suggested buying stock in Ford right now since they're around $1 a share. I'm thinking about putting a couple hundred toward that.
So **** it, I'll keep the stang for a little while longer.
I really want to do a turbo build though, so I'll keep looking into that. My boss suggested buying stock in Ford right now since they're around $1 a share. I'm thinking about putting a couple hundred toward that.
BlackVert
15 Year Member
good, now you're thinking. looking at it myself looks like this. the base kit is $15K. add $5K for a motor, another $2K for the donor car and other parts, $7K for a paint job, and you are already at $30K. and you know how there are so many other expenses that add up rally fast. i really doubt you'd get out of it for under $35K.
anyway here is what i'm thinking: ford is at $1.42 right now. the last 2 years, it has been averaging about $8 and had a high of $9.45.
so, putting $1000 into ford stock now buys about 700 shares. when it recovers back to about $8, it will sell for $5600. that is a nice $4600 profit.
the same deal for GM turns $1,000 into $8,000 for a nice $7,000. GM's 2 year average is $25 ($41 high) and it is at $3.15 now.
of course, this assumes they make it and rebound back to their average price of the last 2 years. i really doubt they will go under, and i also think it is a pretty safe bet that they will return to their pre-crash average price.
i have some CDs coming due in a few days, i think i might just put a grand into each and see what happens.
anyway here is what i'm thinking: ford is at $1.42 right now. the last 2 years, it has been averaging about $8 and had a high of $9.45.
so, putting $1000 into ford stock now buys about 700 shares. when it recovers back to about $8, it will sell for $5600. that is a nice $4600 profit.
the same deal for GM turns $1,000 into $8,000 for a nice $7,000. GM's 2 year average is $25 ($41 high) and it is at $3.15 now.
of course, this assumes they make it and rebound back to their average price of the last 2 years. i really doubt they will go under, and i also think it is a pretty safe bet that they will return to their pre-crash average price.
i have some CDs coming due in a few days, i think i might just put a grand into each and see what happens.
I would use my current motor and fix the issues I have with it. I can use my TKO 600 as well. Put a stock drivetrain in my stang and sell it for $6-8k. I can paint it myself, but the paint and stuff can get expensive. I figure no more than $2500 for paint. The only thing I would really need is the donor car. Of course I would want to upgrade some parts like brakes, rear end, rims/tires, etc. I could see me getting it running with stock or used parts and unpainted for $20k if I can find a cheap donor car.
I can't afford to put $1000 into stocks right now. Well, I COULD afford it, but I like to have a little padding in the savings account. I could probably do $500 though. At $1.42 I think it's a pretty safe bet it'll go up at some point. What happens to their stock if they file bankruptcy?
