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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

I need alot of help boys

  • Thread starter Thread starter Troy55
  • Start date Start date Oct 12, 2006
T

Troy55

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
3
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Texas
Oct 12, 2006
#1
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #1
Well alright guys, I bought a 99 SVT converty in april from a guy who got his car taken away cuz of some credit card problems haha....to cut it short I got the bitch for a steal. paid nothing for it really. I have BBK longtubes, BBK X-pip, Mac Catback, 4.10's, I R S , T-56, Stage 3 clutch, aluminum Drive Shaft, UPR suspension, Light Bar, Aluminium Fly Wheel, and some other stuff, but NO ENGINE WORK! He had a Pro Charger on it, but sold it before i took the car. He said he messed up a piston or a rod after I took the car from his Grandmother. Well this July I was cruising and decided to head out to the lake and I was goin about 80 shifting into 3 or 4 not going to hard on it, and a rod punctured the oil pan. So it died. I knew problems were coming cuz when i would get on it, white smoke would come out. But to cut it short. I got some serious cash, and i'm ready to get the party started.

I have about 15 or 16 Grand to play with, but I dont know what the hell I should do to be flawless with the motor. I think my rearend might be bent to so that should be replaced. I have an 8.8 solid, I think a 9 would be better. But let me know guys what to do. I wanna spend about 13 grand on the car and then spend the remainder on a 03 bumper and a badass hood with a new paintjob.

Let me know

T r o y
 

Dusstbuster

I love meat more than anything! I just have a spec
May 31, 2004
1,462
33
64
Moorhead, Minnesota
Oct 12, 2006
#2
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #2
Uhh......get a completely forged 4v and slap on either a whipple or KB if you go the blower route, otherwise put 2 snails on it and wave byebye to everyone as you pass by. I do believe a solid 8.8" rearend will be plenty too, plus it'll get rid of the wheel hop that the IRS is notorious for.
I suppose a link would probably help...

for the block....http://vtengines.com/low_engines_longblocks.htm
at the bottom you will find the 4v longblocks, choose whichever your heart desires
If you're starting with $13,000 then after the engine you will have around $4000 - $6000 left depending on the engine you purchase to spend on whatever type of forced induction you'd like.
 

BooWFO

New Member
May 10, 2005
991
0
0
Louisville, KY
Oct 12, 2006
#3
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #3
First off are you mechanical inclined?
If not shop around and find a reputable shop to do the work and go with what they suggest.

An 8.8 will handle what you throw at it, but I'd fix the IRS keep the handling if it was me. Which brings another question why do you think it's "Bent"?

Also if the block isn't damaged might want to check into rebuilding it with some good forged internals, low CR pistons, and pouring the boost to it.

For boost that's your call, personally I'd look into turbo's. But if that is outta the price range prolly a novi 2000.
 
T

Troy55

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
3
0
0
Texas
Oct 12, 2006
#4
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #4
What makes me feel the rear is slightly bent is because when i'm running down the road, I hear a hum. the person who had it before me would drag it here and there, so my first guess is yeah, the rear is bent by the humming. Not to sure thought. I was thinking about a Vortech or a KB blower. Not sure tho. I'm going to find out if the block is cracked next week when it goes in. I dont think the block is cracked though. I still have all my water in the radiator which is a good sign it might be just fine, but i'll find out I guess.
 
T

Troy55

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
3
0
0
Texas
Oct 12, 2006
#5
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #5
Most likely I'm going to go to Mike Murillo Motorsports. For the San Antonio area, I hear he is the best. I'm just looking for some good oppinions on here.
 

fastangboi

My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.
Jul 26, 2006
274
0
0
Slowville
Oct 12, 2006
#6
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #6
If you want an engine now or just a project is also a big question. For a good project start with a Mark 8 or a 96-98 cobra alluminum block. They can handle +1500hp and weigh 70lbs. Then go with a steel 03-04 cobra crank, good for 1200hp, weighs 43lbs. then for rings-Total Seal. bolts-ARP. Forged pistons and rods of your choice.
This way if you can tune it,you can run it. the bottom end will hold 1000hp torture all day long. and it comes at a price tag of about $4000 or less if you do some good shopping.
 

BooWFO

New Member
May 10, 2005
991
0
0
Louisville, KY
Oct 12, 2006
#7
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #7
The hummming may not be a "bent" rearend. Some common items that can cause it.
1. Improper gear setup.
2. Bearings going bad.
3. Since it's a IRS might want to check the boots and assorted parts back there. I know on FWD a torn CV boot will let moisture in and take out bearings and make a hmmmmm sound.
4. Tires Some tires do hum at speed.

Murillo I hear only good things about that shop. Good luck.
 
K

Kilgore Trout

Fried or Broiled ?
10 Year Member
Mar 30, 2005
4,749
95
134
Oct 12, 2006
#8
  • Oct 12, 2006
  • #8
Just take it to a good speed shop and tell them to let you know when it is done...
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Oct 13, 2006
#9
  • Oct 13, 2006
  • #9
humming from the rear end is usually pinion bearings.

pinion bearing noise will be more noticeable during throttle tip in at speeds above 40 mph.
 
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