I need help..something is really wrong..

[WhiteDevil]

What you're saying makes more sense (to me anyway). If this is true ..... Pokageek shouldn't have to worry .... right? Can't he just tune it with the TwECCer to accept the 19# MAF & 24# injectors?

Yeah! I have a 19# calibrated MAF and 24# injectors and it works great with the tweecer, ill probably get it recalibrated to 30#ers soon because im pegging the 19# calibration.

My question is to Pokageek, why even by the Tweecer if ur not gonna use it?

 

[Pokageek]

I use the tweecer for numerous basic settings and the idea that it can grow when my needs get there. I don't have a lot of time to play around with it other than that right now. I use it for the fans, smog delete, egr delete, speed limiter removal, timing tables, rev limiter, rpm limiter (for when or if it goes in the shop or is driven by anyone else). That's it right now.

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

oK it looks like your not understanding me...
This is what i'm saying, if he's got 24# injectors he should be putting a maf with the #24 calibration, if he had the stockers he would be able to use the maf for the #19, but since he has #24 injectors the maf for #19 will make the car run funky... But if you read the rest of my post I was asking him if he tuned his car himself, then he can just dial in the calibration for the one he has... I know that can be done the cobras had #24 injectors with a maf calibrated for#19 so it can be done... hope that cleared it up for ya guys...
Cheers.

What the F? I have never heard this before. In fact, I thought was the whole point behind getting a MAF calibrated to your injectors - it communicates the correct information to the computer for your injectors, and no further computer tuning is required. You only need to use a programmer to adjust for injectors when you are using a MAF that is not calibrated to match the injectors.

In fact, I'm nearly sure this is right. So would someone please speak up if I am off?

 

[Pokageek]

Ok, so let's say I want to try to tune my car with the 19# maf b4 the 24# maf arrives at my house to see if the car actually runs right...

Can anyone tell me what to change using my tweecer to do this? I have asked the question but the only people who respond say use the search. I use the search and can't find what I am looking for. Anyone willing to give me a 1,2,3 step to give this a try? What's the big deal of saying here, change this, this and this..? I know some of you have done it.

BTW the granatelli from summit is on the way and the incorrect pro-m is going back for a refund from brothers..I have spent hours of head banging because of their mistake.

 

[SeventyMach1]

Now I got ya'. The last part of that post sort of "subliminally" told me your thinking was different (where you told him to send it back ..... indicating it would not work).


He just needs to TwEEC it!

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

I'm no good with the tweeker but yes he should be able to tune it. However If the wrong thing was sent to me "I" would send it back for what I ordered. And that is because I dont know how to tweek it. lol. the whole home tuning thing I havent tackled yet..

 

[GRGT1994]

Thanks for the clarification Tony. I think it was the following statement that got me turned upside down.

the computer calibration should be the same as the maf calibration

You only need to calibrate the 'puter to the MAF when you are attempting to use a MAF that is not calibrated to the injectors. But I read your statement to mean you always need to calibrate the 'puter to the MAF even when the MAF matches the injectors.

Now I can sleep at night.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

Ok, so let's say I want to try to tune my car with the 19# maf b4 the 24# maf arrives at my house to see if the car actually runs right...

Can anyone tell me what to change using my tweecer to do this? I have asked the question but the only people who respond say use the search. I use the search and can't find what I am looking for. Anyone willing to give me a 1,2,3 step to give this a try? What's the big deal of saying here, change this, this and this..? I know some of you have done it.

BTW the granatelli from summit is on the way and the incorrect pro-m is going back for a refund from brothers..I have spent hours of head banging because of their mistake.

load the MAF transfer for your meter in the functions tab and change the scalar for injector slope high to 24.8397 and injector slope low to 24.8397. that is it. there is no need for a refund.if it is an improperly calibrated meter, this will correct the problem straight away. doesnt your meter tell you what the calibration is on the sensor itself? at any rate, i had my stock MAF meter and 42's running on the car flawlessly (except for pegging the meter under boost) with the changes in the tweecer. so change those things and let us know how it goes.

 

[Pokageek]

Ok, I am going to take a go at it.. I see 2 columns. Volts and kg/hr, I guess kg/hr is straight forward from the table I have. I don't know what 1-10 is for but I will just put the "actual flow number " in at the top and go down...it is 742.92. Hmm, they only gave me 9 numbers on the flow sheet...what do I put in for number 1?

I also do not know what to do with the "90 pt avg volts" numbers and how that applies to convert to 30pts or the rich lean settings.. anyone?

 

[Green 94 5.0]

just to see if that will solve the problem, go to the LOAD MAF button and load the PROM_19.MAF file. after that change your injector slopes to 24.8397 and write it to the tweecer. if the problem is a miscalibrated MAF (19lb instead of 24lb) this should get the car running again. you can worry about using the actual flow sheet that came with the meter later.

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

And this is exactly why I would have sent it back for what I ordered... This seems like alot of work just to make a maf work, especially when I ordered the correct one..
Here's what i'm saying guys, take me for instance, I dont have a home tuning device, if they sent me this maf I would be up s**t creek without a paddle, or go to my tuner and get it tuned for an additional $100.00!!! I just spent 200 - 250 dollars for a correctly calibrated maf and I got the wrong one!!!!! You cant let them get away with giving you the wrong thing; The less people that call when theres a problem the more they get away from customer service.... Sorry for the rant but everyone seems to sound like it's no big deal just tune it yourself, sure you can but it dosnt skirt the fact they sent you the wrong thing, and that would make me very angry.... Rant over.
Tony

 

[a50sn95]

Ok, so let's say I want to try to tune my car with the 19# maf b4 the 24# maf arrives at my house to see if the car actually runs right...

Can anyone tell me what to change using my tweecer to do this? I have asked the question but the only people who respond say use the search. I use the search and can't find what I am looking for. Anyone willing to give me a 1,2,3 step to give this a try? What's the big deal of saying here, change this, this and this..? I know some of you have done it.

BTW the granatelli from summit is on the way and the incorrect pro-m is going back for a refund from brothers..I have spent hours of head banging because of their mistake.

If it were me, I'd put the stock MAF back on, and use the stock MAF Transfer. T4M0 and J4J1 already have this information so you won't have to change a thing with the maf.
If you use J4J1, it also has 24 lb injectors, so you won't have to change that either. So:

1. Put stock MAF back in.
2. Load J4J1 tune.
3. Start car.

Or, if you want to use the Pro-M for 19's

1. Open your tune.
2. Go to Maf Transfer
3. Enter the information off the flow sheet.
4. Go to scalars
5. Enter Injector information (If you are using T4M0. J4J1 alreay has 24's.)
6. Start Car.

BTW, Granetelli's are NOT Pro-M's. They use Hitachi meters now. They used to be WAY BACK , but that is old information. There was a post here or on the Corral by Granetelli himself about this. Back when Pro-M went under...

 

[a50sn95]

I'd send it back too. If it's calibrated for 19's, it's gonna be too small someday. Besides, whats the point of an aftermarket MAF calibrated for 19's. Seems pointless to me.
If you have a Tweecer, the only advantage to getting the MAF calibrated for your injectors, is that if the Tweecer takes a dump, the maf will still be right and the car should run.
Otherwise, I'd get one calibrated for 96 lb injectors.
That way, I'll never have to worry about pegging it.
Just enter the RIGHT information in CalEdit and let the computer do it's job.
Look at my sig, you can see I'm running a 36# cal with 42's. And it's a bit rich.
I'm also not near pegging it yet, but I haven't turned up the boost yet.

 

[Pokageek]

I am not sure where to post all this and sorry for all the threads. I will continue to post here so I am not hogging the board.

I think my problem is even WORSE than the wrong MAF. This REALLY sucks. My cousin checked #1 cylinder for valve clearance using the 6.750 push-rods. he said there was no problems on #1 without the head gasket which means that ALL the cylinders will clear the valves fine...

All I can tell you guys is that I removed the spark plugfs and tried to crank by hand to see if anything was stuck and when the rockers move on number 3 cylinder on one side and then move on 7 on the other side, my wrench will not turn as if the motor gets stuck right there.. It turned yesterday so I don't know what is wrong..here I go again, gotta tear the whole engine down because something is wrong.

Any ideas?? He checked the clearance so I can't imagine what is wrong but it sure is acting like something is stuck somewhere!

 

[Pokageek]

And this is exactly why I would have sent it back for what I ordered... This seems like alot of work just to make a maf work, especially when I ordered the correct one..
Here's what i'm saying guys, take me for instance, I dont have a home tuning device, if they sent me this maf I would be up s**t creek without a paddle, or go to my tuner and get it tuned for an additional $100.00!!! I just spent 200 - 250 dollars for a correctly calibrated maf and I got the wrong one!!!!! You cant let them get away with giving you the wrong thing; The less people that call when theres a problem the more they get away from customer service.... Sorry for the rant but everyone seems to sound like it's no big deal just tune it yourself, sure you can but it dosnt skirt the fact they sent you the wrong thing, and that would make me very angry.... Rant over.
Tony

Yes, I see your point Tony. I agree with you. In the meantime I have to tear down this engine and figure out WTH is wrong..

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

Wow sorry to hear that, first things first, check to see that your crank bearings are cool.. We had a similar problem with my buddys motor, took it all the way back down, only to find out he put his bearings in wrong; we only turned the crank on full time but he forced it at one point, ground into the crank and killed the bearings... hope you have better luck than that..

Tony

 

[Pokageek]

The engine is the same one that has been running now for months so I am doubting it is any problem with that.

The only thing we really changed was the heads. I called trick flow and they say a .480 lift b cam is no way gonna hit a valve. He thinks it is in the assembly (block) but I say no way because the assembly has been working fine for months..I think a head malfunctioned..

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

Its time to check valves then, wow I dont know where to begin.... Are your valves adjusted correctly? Rockers? heads dont just malfunction something happened with the timing events... well looks like you have some work in front of ya... keep us posted, through the process.

 

[a50sn95]

Back out all the rockers, and turn it by hand. if it still happens, it's not the valves. It's not unheard of for something to make it's way into the engine. (Bolt, nut, wrench, etc....)
Good luck!..

 

[urban96]

has the motor been running fine with the new heads and just recently started this?

did you prime the motor before the initial start?



when your turning the motor over by hand it is in neutral right?


definatly run a comp test before you go ripping into the motor, costs like $20 for the kit and dosent take long to do