I need input on these parts (Ive waited 3 years, please help)

With your help, i should have everything i need to get my car done soon... i have alot of questions, but i appreciate the answers more than you know.


This is what i am putting on my 1991 LX (questions at the bottom)



-Block Bored and honed to 306
-Resized rods
-Trickflow 10:1 forged pistons
-Polished crank
-All new bearings
-Trickflow Track Heat Heads
-Trickflow 6.700 pushrods
-Trickflow Track Heat upper & lower intake
-Trickflow 1" phenolic intake spacer
-Trickflow stage II cam ( duration 224*/232* lift .542"/.563")
-BBK 75mm throttle body
-Edelbrock 75mm EGR spacer
-BBK Adjustable FPR
-BBK liquid filled fuel pressure gauge
-Melling high volume oil pump
-Milodon 7qt oil pan
-FMS aluminum driveshaft
-MSD 6AL
-FMS lifters

Here are my questions:

-Can i reuse my stock harmonic balancer?
-Should i go with the MSD Blaster 2 coil (if not, which one)?
-Does MSD make a wiring kit for the 6AL for plug and play into a fox body?
-What brand and size (1.6 or 1.7) rockers should i use?
-What brand headers should i use? (im thinkin 1 5/8 ceramic full length)
-If i decide to dump the exhaust, which flowmaster series wont make me tone deaf? (im thinkin 40 series 3 chambers)

Thanks to anyone with input, i want this thing running very soon.
 
why would you spend all the money on this stuff and skimp out on the balancer? spend the bucks and get a new one. but to answer the q, yes you can still use it. a regular coil is fine, the MSD blaster TFI will suffice or others of the like. yes there are plug harnesses to hook up a ign box. rockers, i recomend harland sharp, comp, or scorpions. dont use a HV pump, a stock replacement will do fine.
 
jerryD said:
why would you spend all the money on this stuff and skimp out on the balancer? spend the bucks and get a new one. but to answer the q, yes you can still use it. a regular coil is fine, the MSD blaster TFI will suffice or others of the like. yes there are plug harnesses to hook up a ign box. rockers, i recomend harland sharp, comp, or scorpions. dont use a HV pump, a stock replacement will do fine.


I guess i just dont know enough about balancers to choose from them... i got the HV pump because im using a 7qt pan.. wouldnt i need a higher volume pump for that much oil? if not, i have a HV pump for sale. and ill get a standard oil pan instead of the 248.00 jobbie.
 
just cause you have/plan to have a 7qt pan, doesn't instantly mean you have to run a HV pump. i have a 7qt pan, and only use a stock pump(race version though). one of the reasons to run a HV pump is cause of loose bearing tolerances. i got mine from www.precisionoilpumps.com with mine being the race version, i bet i could have got away with his basic stock one. this thing puts out a lot of pressure, kinda too much for me. on my next oil change i'm gonna try 5 qts and see what happens.

for balancers, romac/powerbond/pioneer will do fine. also look into inovators west, they have good stuff too.

go here and take a look at some of the brandsof stuff i, and my buddy are using. http://weekendwarriorz.com/Rides.html
 
BBk 1 5/8 LT's, 1.6 rr b/c 1.7's might put u over the limits of the track heat heads which i think are 600'' lift, as far as the balancer go w/ aftermarket. If u dont want to spend to much go to 50 resto and buy a PP race one for cheap.
 
Jo_885o said:
BBk 1 5/8 LT's, 1.6 rr b/c 1.7's might put u over the limits of the track heat heads which i think are 600'' lift, as far as the balancer go w/ aftermarket. If u dont want to spend to much go to 50 resto and buy a PP race one for cheap.

Thanks for that info on the rockers. im about to take my short block apart and clean everything again (its been sitting for a year and a half) and start calling to order this stuff.

ive heard good and bad about the BBK headers, do you have these, and are you happy with them?

is there anything i should know when ordering the balancer? i see some that are liquid filled and all that mess, and the rattler ones, im just gonna have to look around and see what i can find.
 
just get a basic steel/steel balancer. prob 50oz(depending what your crank will be could be 28oz) with a 4 bolt pulley pattern. stick with the brands i mentioned and you will be fine. the SFI balancers normally fit on the crank tight! mine, i had to heat up with mapp gas to help get it on.
 
jerryD said:
just get a basic steel/steel balancer. prob 50oz(depending what your crank will be could be 28oz) with a 4 bolt pulley pattern. stick with the brands i mentioned and you will be fine. the SFI balancers normally fit on the crank tight! mine, i had to heat up with mapp gas to help get it on.


Its the stock crank, just polished, didnt need turned really.... thanks for the info... im going to probably get a stock pan and a standard volume pump now that ive been told that i dont need the high volume one. unless someone thinks differently
 
stock crank is 50oz. as long as the shop didn't turn your crank 10/10, just polished, then you should be fine. since you are just using stock size bearings, then a basic pump will be more than adaquet for your setup. i didn't bring it up earlier, but why are your rods getting resized? on the balancer, my buddy is using a SFI profesional prods one, and his just slid on no prblem.

go ahead and get a new balancer bolt too. $20 for one. i got the ARP bolt that you can use just a 1/2 drive extension on without a socket. it is pretty nice not having to know what size it takes, just put the rachet in there.
 
jerryD said:
mine, i had to heat up with mapp gas to help get it on.

I'm confused. Doesn't heat make things expand?

Anyway, I agree that the HV pump is overkill. The reason I went with the Canton 7qt pan is that the pickup will actually be located lower. The deeper pan allows the oil to sit farther from the crank, which helps eliminate windage losses. Most people will say that you can actually run 5qt in a 7qt pan and not have any problems. My advice is to fill the pan with water before you bolt the motor together. This will allow you to see where the oil level will be, and how the baffles will help. This way you can compare the oil level of 5qt to 7qt.

For the money you will have in the motor, you will want a new damper.
My only other bit of advice is to make sure the motor is balanced. I didn't, and while the motor ran fine (it won't damage anything), there was always a violent shake between 3800-4300rpm. $200 would have solved this problem.
 
yes heat does make things expand. the balancer was a very tight fit. so i took the mapp gas to it to help open a little so it would slide on easier. still a booger to get on, but i got it on pretty far, then put the bolt in and took it until the motor turned over. for me that was 45 ft lbs. when i got it in the car anhad the tranny hooked up, i torqued it down.
 
jerry beach said:
I would go with a standard volume pump too. Get a hardened oil pump shaft. The stockers have been known to wring off. Very important component, I am suprised it wasnt metioned.

I second that. Very cheap, and worth twice as much.

To jerryD: Sorry dude but I think it would have gone on better if you had stuck it in the freezer.

By the way, what is mapp gas?
 
wouldn't freezing do the oppisite and shrink the componet? if so it would have made the balancer go on harder i think. anyways it is on and the motor is doing fine so far, about 300-400 miles on it.

mapp gas is the next stepp up from propane. gets alot hotter quicker. walmart carries it(well around here they do) got a torch that does propane and mapp with it. my dad also has a mapp/oxygen setup too. that will heat stuff up too. it is just short of having oxy/acell.
 
yes heat WILL expand the balancer and freezing wont expand metal(if that was the case my fridge would be huge).The molecules in the metal have already been cooled down and settled, heat wakes them up and expands them. Oh ya and get a hardened oil pump shaft ive seen a few twist and seize the engines.