Engine Engine Swap - lots of upgrades, not running quite right

79pace

something stupid will fall out of my mouth
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Jul 21, 2000
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I dont have the factory valve covers on it. I have composite aftermarket valve covers and I dont keep changing things. This is how it has been since I fired it up and I even provided pictures of how it is set up.

I replaced the lower intake gaskets. I had the entire intake off. I just said that. I put brand new gaskets on and I looked over the ones that came off and found on signs that it had a leak. And if i leave the battery connected it will drain the battery. Again I stated this above. This has been a problem for years on this car and is unrelated. It has a drain probably from an old alarm. Its on the list of things I need to track down.

Also read above. yes I have a vacuum gauge and its pulling about 12lbs.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Like I said, this has gone on long enough to be confusing. Over 80 posts. And I went back to the pic and zoomed in to see the edelbrock breather. that pulls un metered air into the engine.
You can try removing the line from the breather to the tb and cap the nipple at the tb and remove the filter from the maf and see how it acts, this will eliminate the turbulance that the filter may be causing and stop the un metered air into the engine.
Just observations.
 

79pace

something stupid will fall out of my mouth
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Ok, As I said above, i will try to remove that and cap it and see what happens. Will be tomorrow before I can get out there and try it though.
 
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jrichker

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I dont have the factory valve covers on it. I have composite aftermarket valve covers and I dont keep changing things. This is how it has been since I fired it up and I even provided pictures of how it is set up.

I replaced the lower intake gaskets. I had the entire intake off. I just said that. I put brand new gaskets on and I looked over the ones that came off and found on signs that it had a leak. And if i leave the battery connected it will drain the battery. Again I stated this above. This has been a problem for years on this car and is unrelated. It has a drain probably from an old alarm. Its on the list of things I need to track down.

Also read above. yes I have a vacuum gauge and its pulling about 12lbs.
Your vacuum is low for a healthy engine - at 650 RPM you should see 16.5-18 inches of vacuum. Run the engine up to 1000 RPM and you should see 18-20 inches of vacuum.
 

08GT500

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Jul 12, 2018
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Hi,
Vacuum measurement was taken at 1,000RPM’s, has new, unseated rings where it was 12 & we’d both thought it still seemed low. Is low- I wonder where it’d be at 700RPM’s...
Can you please elaborate on the TPS voltage drop comment you’d made... if my dull brain is processing this right...
you’re showing a voltage drop from the (Org./Wht.) IACV 5VDC reference wire when the Car’s sitting key on versus engine running? No, I don’t believe it’s normal for reference voltage to change KO, versus KOER.
Electronically, I’d believe TPS ref should be consistent (within tolerances) being fed by a regulated 5VDC power supply sitting inside the EEC. :shrug: Grounds...connections..wire chafed to ground.
Even at lower input voltages, a regulation board will trade current for voltage to maintain within tolerance. When input’s too low to make 5V, a Zener diode or similar will generally shut it down.
Voltage good at battery, sitting..how about running? (Tender removed).
How were the salt & pepper shaker’s connections, if you got into them yet(?).
Just so I was certain I’d done it, I’d clean, add an anti corrosive (anti-Ox) electric paste to solidify all your grounds. Battery to block, block to chassis, battery to EEC, O2 sensors ground, Dizzy chassis solidly grounded to block.(This has occurred before). All grounds for 5V sensors. Pull connectors, clean them.
IACV self Resistance parameters (pin to pin) is 10.5-13.8 Ohms. Red wire supplies regulated 12VDC to it, (same 12V source for injectors). Blue/Wht is the EEC’s supplied, pulsed ground.
The IAC Plug removed, did engine RPM drop, stay running- better/worse?
I’d use the EEC’s capabilities to help, it’s not Obd-2, but very useful.
We’re you able to get an “I’m good” 11 from your EEC, then 4 where it increases RPM’s & runs the car through the EGR test, clear for diagnostics?
Could also run a cylinder balance test...
A compression, and leak down test, may catch if a valve’s not seating, give you a status on your rings, internal engine health.
Was pressure testing performed after porting & reassembling the E-7 heads? Grind too deep or hit a porous casting & well..I know you read me..lol.
Running a new/old balancer? Remember they are 2 pc & the rubber rots causing Separation, timing marks may become erroneous.
I’d suggest Staying the course, holding up well, maybe throw a tool here or there to vent, lol..
Know you’re not new to this. Hard to convey how thoughts are intended via text. Helpful quick references if required:
TPS’s being simple variable resistors, excellent application, but are sacrificial & do wear out. As if you were going to set the TPS voltage again, engine warm, KO & meter connected, cycle the butterfly very slowly through to WOT, watch your VOM, if voltage isn’t linear, dives or jumps, there are dead spots, replace.
You can also disconnect & test it on the Ohmmeter setting on your VOM.
KOEO, check voltage, snap the throttle closed from WOT & see if it repeats.
Some vehicles do work better at lower idle voltage, some higher(between 0.5-0.99DCV.). Opening up the TPS mounting holes will give you more tweaking space.
May also wish to consider upsizing your chassis ground with the 3G alternator upgrade.
Hope blocking the breather has a positive effect.
Best of luck!
-John
 

79pace

something stupid will fall out of my mouth
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Ok, Plugged up the PCV tube on the side of the TB and am now idling just over 1000. If I get it below that it gets iffy but only because I have messed with everything else to resolve this so now I need to go back over everything and I am going to order a new TPS. I dont trust it. If I put a probe in and a volt meter I get voltage for a second but then I get nothing as if the probe is no longer hitting wires however I can move it and I get nothing still. Then it will come back at some point. But if I have it slightly loose and move it when the engine is running the idle changes. The throttle body does have provision to move the TPS pretty far and re bolt it down. I also need to verify fuel pressure again and go through the idle reset. Its I also still hear rockers ticking a little which annoys me so valve covers are coming back off at some point after I get this figured out. But I do have 16 pounds of vacuum at idle now and its more steady. It still seems like it hangs a little when you push the throttle like the computer wants to hold it but I have other issues to sort now. I tested voltage and the brand new alternator is putting out 11.2 so it is going to have to get returned. Love it when brand new stuff is crap. I will attach the video of it running in a second if I can get it off my phone.
 

08GT500

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Jul 12, 2018
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File is too large. I will figure out where I can upload it tomorrow and attach it.
Hi,
Wow, much improved Vac., from 12 to 16, a 25% gain in vacuum :nice: TPS replacement makes perfect sense. Sucks about the alternator, better caught than not, it’ll only help things. Not a bad idea to have your battery load tested, too. Stick a pin through wire insulation for easier VOM measurements. One at a time, right...
Best!
-John
PM sent; Video
 
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79pace

something stupid will fall out of my mouth
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Copied it into google drive. I will move the 93 into the garage as soon as I get this new edge out of it and do some tune up work. I got the alternator off amazon and with them shutting down shipments I am not positive how long before I will get a replacement.

93 Running Video
 

79pace

something stupid will fall out of my mouth
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I really want to go drive it. Have not driven this car in a month or so. Just dont want to hurt it. I dont like the rpm hang in it. I know efi cars do that a little more than a carb car that I am use to but still think its more than it should be.
 

08GT500

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Hope the Alternator, TPS nails this. This thread is a great “how to” example without needlessly throwing parts at problem(s).
Don’t believe a drive will hurt anything, plenty of oil, pressure, fuel volume, T-5 right? Could take it for a small toot, May give you more clues, help the eec relearn.
Car does have to be driven under a load to see if there’s no hiccups, piston rings are longing for a load, lol
 

79pace

something stupid will fall out of my mouth
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Yea it has good oil pressure. Need to top off the radiator. I noticed the top hose is full of nothing but air right now but the radiator does get up to temp and i was able to set the fans to come on where I want. Its a Tremec 3550 but it does hvae fluid. I do need to break in this motor though so may take it out this weekend if its nice. I am almost done putting a new engine in my girlfriends sons 2000 GT sitting in the garage. I want to get mine in and finish it up. Not much fuel in it. i was trying to burn it off before I started this project because I have a brand new fuel pump for it as well. The stocker is sounding pretty loud and it wont go above 38-39 with vacuum off the FPR so i am sure its at its limits. Also have rear control arms to put on this thing as well.
 
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08GT500

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Was going to ask you how old your fuel was, fresh 91 or 93 will not hurt it for sure. Trans, just meant manual Trans- Driving- worst case, Clutch in- kill the motor. Helper spring on the throttle linkage(?)
So, New parts, fuel Filter, pump, TPS, Alt, 91/93 Oct Fuel all coming up.
Curious...
Try clocking the OE MAF?
EGR line connected to the EEC controlled vacuum switch(zero EGR vac at idle)?
Maybe a FP gauge on the rail...while you’re doing this, helpful, worthwhile.
Best!
-John
 

79pace

something stupid will fall out of my mouth
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Jul 21, 2000
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New fuel filter, gas was fresh a month ago or so, non ethenal, 89 octane I am not sure what you mean by clocking the MAF, I have it mounted in the stock location and bolted to the bracket how Pro M instructed. The EGR stuff is basically gone. I have the sensor plugged in bu tit has been removed from the metal housing and its laying back behind the intake somewhere. I also have a FP gauge on the FPR regulator so I can see active pressure.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Important note: make necessary repairs to things that need it ie: alternator needs to be charging correctly, fuel pump needs to be functioning correctly.
Do not attempt any changes till this is done. Any changes after necessary repairs that do not make the situation better needs to be reversed (put back the way it was) if not it may make resolving the issues harder or impossible