I've been trying to find out why my car keeps eating Optimas... so far 2 in the past 2 weeks, the last one without getting out of my driveway. I tried tracing back the wiring, here's what I found out.
With the battery out, I ohmed each wire at the solonoid . Three wires ohmed out to having continuity with ground. 2 are about 10-12ga, one black and one dark blue/green/off black. The other is a small, 18ga red one.
The wiring diagram I have lists one wire going from the solnoid back to a junction where is splits off into a black/yellow for the fuse box, a yellow for the ignition switch, and a non-color-listed to the headlight switch (later discovered to be black/red).
My car is wired with the two large wires going back to a junction, where it is joined by two wires, the yellow and the black/yellow. All wires have continuity to each other, which means when i ohm them they all have continuity to ground. Also, the headlight power is not to be found on this set of wires... so it is (N/A) on the diagram.
I ohmed my switch, and I'm getting continuity between ground and the yellow power wire with the switch off. My dad said this seems to be the cause of my problem with the switch shorting out and draining the batt in that there shouldn't be any continuity between ground and the power. And I'm not sure it's the fuse box or wouldn't I be blowing fuses all of the time?
I can elaborate on my wiring if needed. Right now I have a later model PMGR starter (on diagram) and a 3G alt (wired to BC Bronco's specs).
Can anyone PLEASE help me out with this, either confirm or deny or give other options. And does anyone know who carries a '70 ignition switch if this is indeed the culprit? No one seems to list prices.... if not, can a 71-72 switch be used instead?
Much thanks and gratitude to anyone who can help me out....
The Swede
With the battery out, I ohmed each wire at the solonoid . Three wires ohmed out to having continuity with ground. 2 are about 10-12ga, one black and one dark blue/green/off black. The other is a small, 18ga red one.
The wiring diagram I have lists one wire going from the solnoid back to a junction where is splits off into a black/yellow for the fuse box, a yellow for the ignition switch, and a non-color-listed to the headlight switch (later discovered to be black/red).
My car is wired with the two large wires going back to a junction, where it is joined by two wires, the yellow and the black/yellow. All wires have continuity to each other, which means when i ohm them they all have continuity to ground. Also, the headlight power is not to be found on this set of wires... so it is (N/A) on the diagram.
I ohmed my switch, and I'm getting continuity between ground and the yellow power wire with the switch off. My dad said this seems to be the cause of my problem with the switch shorting out and draining the batt in that there shouldn't be any continuity between ground and the power. And I'm not sure it's the fuse box or wouldn't I be blowing fuses all of the time?
I can elaborate on my wiring if needed. Right now I have a later model PMGR starter (on diagram) and a 3G alt (wired to BC Bronco's specs).
Can anyone PLEASE help me out with this, either confirm or deny or give other options. And does anyone know who carries a '70 ignition switch if this is indeed the culprit? No one seems to list prices.... if not, can a 71-72 switch be used instead?
Much thanks and gratitude to anyone who can help me out....
The Swede
