I need some serious help or something..

89RedFoxGT

New Member
Nov 2, 2006
62
0
0
jackson, TN
I put my motor back together and got it runing (like ****) and its smokin like crap and i drained the oil out of it which i know i didnt get all the milky oil out and put in new oil and filter just to flush it out and the oil in there now is milkyyyyy i dunno if its from mixing with the other oil that didnt drain out or what. its revvin high and takes a 5 or so seconds to idle back down? what would cause that? also what would cause it to smoke white smoke so bad? when i put the heads back on i took some oil and put a little around the cylidners were they were trying to rust from the water being in the cylinders. any help would be great! thanks!

well, it was runnin good for a few mins, i let it run the smoke pretty much stoped. then i said well im gonna put some water in it and just let it run and ugh yeah i did and right then it died and i cracked it up and its barley runnin missin like hell so, i guess the blocks cracked!!!
 
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i just had the heads checked and new head gaskets intake gaskets new plugs. what else could it be? the guy said a lifter went down, he drove it a while without replacing it and finally decied to and when he put it all back together he cracked it up and it started smokin white smoke and he chedkt eh oil and it was milky. he said it might have just been the intake gasket but i know i put all the gasets on there right, so what else could it be? im just about totally frustrated with this freakin car!

what else could it be other than a cracked block? alot are all the 302 blocks the same? my uncle has a 302 block out of a truck its a 90 same as my car, could i go and have it bored/honed and put the crank,rods pistons, cam, heads on the other block, it dosent have to be a HO block does it? the motor in my car is bored .040 over whatever caus4e its a rebuilt motor from autozone, the guy who tested m y heads said he could bored/hone the thing out and get it ready to put back together for 200$ what do yall think?? and thanks for the help guys!
 
I doubt the block is cracked. If the engine wasn't burning coolant/oil before it was taken apart, then there shouldn't be any reason why the block is cracked. I'd take a look at the intake gaskets/head gaskets first, and be sure that your head bolts were torqed down properly and with the proper sequence before deciding to throw a whole other block in the car.

Also on those lower intake bolts, the manual says to torque the bolts down in 3 steps, it was more like 6 or 7 times for me until I got the specified torque spec on all the bolts. Some tend to loosen as you are going through the sequence.

Good Luck!
 
yeah, well thats just what he TOLD me, I've known him for a while, hes in his late 40s dont see why He would lie to me about it running. and i just replaced the head gaskets, intake gaskets and its doing the same thing.
 
The EGR spacer has coolant lines going to it, and if it's leaking that can be a source of the white smoke, but I don't see how that could contaminate the oil unless it lays in the cylinders for a very long time and leaks past the rings...Have you checked the bolts on your water pump to your timing cover to make sure they are tight? That will contaminate the oil also if those water ports are leaking. Damn...I dont know you've got me curious now...lol...I'm going to try and think of some other things it could be...lol

Check the head gaskets by doing a compression test and see if the cylinders hold compression. If you have a leaky head gasket then the cylinder(s) wont hold compression...by the way did you put teflon tape/pipe dope or silicone on the lower head bolts when you reinstalled them? I dunno just an idea...lol
 
nope just put loctite and put them on torqued em down like i was supost to. could the block be warped were the head sits on the block? and how could it crack the block without messin up the cam if it did something to the block? i dunno, have no ideal but its driving me crazy! im looking for a nakled block now to built and just sit it back down in there.
 
If you didn't use teflon tape on the lower head bolts then this is your problem. The lower row of head bolts go into the water jacket and without the teflon tape you get a coolant leak. I can almost guarantee this is your problem. You might be able to get way with pulling the lower head bolts 1 at a time and puting some tape on them and then put it back. To do it right you should take the heads back off probably. Good Luck.
 
So I could pull them out 1 at a time and put taflon tape on them? would it be worth trying? I dont wanna spend no more money on it than I have to. and Hows the best way to drain a motor of milky oil? thanks yall!
 
Yes pull the lower bolts out one at a time, starting with the center one and working out. I was bolting my heads on when I realized that I forgot to put thread tape/pipe dope on the lower bolts, and didnt realize this until after I torqued them down to spec. :bang: Wasn't no big deal though I hadn't run the engine yet, and it was still torn down to the heads yet, so I took them out one at a time, and I used a LOT and I mean a LOT of blue permatex silicone on the bolts. Someone on here reccomended that to me, and to use ultra black permatex, but the blue worked fine for me. But yeah, when you go to put the bolts back in, torque them right to spec; no need to do it in steps. It would be a good idea to go over all the bolts again in the proper sequence just to be sure that they are all torqued to spec. If you go with silicone, just be sure to use lots of it and let it dry some before you start the engine.
You can do what you want though, teflon thread tape or silicone.

As for the oil, I have heard of people running a little bit of kerosene with some fresh oil to clean out everything. Not a lot though. I filled my oil pan with kerosene when I took the timing cover off, so that any old small pieces of gasket material that fell in the pan would wash out. Some kerosene acutally layed in there and after I filled the car up with fresh oil again I could smell it in my oil. And when I drained my oil after my first startup, the pitch black oil that came out looked like something I could pave my driveway with only after running it about 30-45 minutes...lol...so I guess it cleans very well. Another alternative is to just drain the old oil the best you can, fill it with fresh oil and let the car run for a little bit, let that drain out real good and refill it again, then you are good to go.

Good Luck!
 
man, thanks alot! I'll use alot of teflon tape and pipe dope on them and drain the oil out and i got some diesel around back ill run in it with new oil to see if its still mixing. also, for the smartones, could a lifter breaking or being down cause the block or cylinder to crack? wouldnt it break the cam lobe off before it busted or did anything to the freaking block? also, the heads had felpro gaskets on it but i dont know if they were on there cause of its a rebuilt motor from autozone or if someone pulled the heads off cents hes had the motor in the car. any imput would be appreciated(sp?) guys!!