I ordered my BBK shorty equal lengths today yay!

V8302stangs · Aug 9, 2005

I actually do have gears, 3.73s as well as a few little things mainly including the usual flowmasters and off road h pipe, an MSD 6al, and upgraded to a 255lph when my old pump went out. Everything throttle body down is staying stock until I am ready to rebuild the entire motor, I don't see much purpose in messing with internals on a motor with 161k on it, but seeing as though I wouldnt want to drop in a new long block without headers, it's something external I can do without putting much work on the motor. I'm not worried about having the car out for a few days (something I planned) since I have a restricted license at the moment anyways (due to unrelated circumstances) and figured now is the time to get things like this done, plus the fact that I will have to swap my h pipe off and back on to get smog done next week anyways.

DFG 5OH · Aug 9, 2005

your motor will be fine. Go ahead and throw some heads on it

wytstang · Aug 9, 2005

Here wrench away
http://www.centuryperformance.com/jbaheaders/install15.htm

VibrantRedGT · Aug 10, 2005

I had equal lengths for years with the smog crap on. It pretty much sucked on the install and sucked on spark plug changes. Honestly they won't make but 1HP if that over unequals. Not worth the time in effort in my opinion. Not my car do what you want, just my two cents. I also had them in chrome. They will be blue in a few hours.

I'm doing Bernie MAC cermamic Long tubes this time around. I learned my lesson with chrome.

Black95GTS · Aug 10, 2005

Grn92LX said:
yay you just bought a part that won't make a lick of difference on a bolt on car Can you cancel your order to save the cash? Not trying to flame, its just that shorty headers are such a waste of cash on a bolt on level.

You are so right its not even funny. I can't tell you how many times I wish I had spent the 400 bucks on 4.10 gears then on these crappy (but nice looking) headers.

Make sure to use the Stage 8s, and plenty of Mr. Wrench on the old bolts, mine were a PITA to get loose.

igotyofire · Aug 10, 2005

Grn92LX said:
Wasn't meant to be harsh, hence the " " Stock headers are perfectly fine at a bolt on level. Not that I know what i'm talking about

i think that with an offroad pipe the headers become a bottle neck...atleast on the iron gt40 heads anyways, not too familer with E7s

94opalgt · Aug 10, 2005

stock headers are garbage,they are not fine for a bolt on motor.heck they arent even fine for a stock motor they're junk.get them off and get the new ones on,no matter if they are equal or not they will be 100% better than the stock crap thats on it.

mo_dingo · Aug 10, 2005

94opalgt said:
stock headers are garbage,they are not fine for a bolt on motor.heck they arent even fine for a stock motor they're junk.get them off and get the new ones on,no matter if they are equal or not they will be 100% better than the stock crap thats on it.

But the stock h-pipe is 75% of the restriction in the stock exhaust system. Ditching that is what matters most.
Scott

94GTLaserRC · Aug 11, 2005

mo_dingo said:
But the stock h-pipe is 75% of the restriction in the stock exhaust system. Ditching that is what matters most.
Scott

Especially if you get ones without cats.
RC

The NJ Exile · Aug 11, 2005

What all this crap about taking a whole weekend..B.S. You can have you headers on in one day.

1. unplug battery ( while under hood, spray down all the header bolt with WD40, Mr. Wrench, Break free..What ever)
2. Jack up car, and support on Jackstands.
3. Drop the H-pipe ( make sure to unplug the O2's)
4. Pull off the intake track, Plugs and wires
5. unbolt old headers.
6. scrape all the old gasket crap off the head.
7. bolt new headers in ( The drives side is a PITA, passange side drops right in).
Don't forget to check for leaks. Start the car, let it run for 5 mins. and then let it cool, retighted all bolts.. You done.

I did mine on a Saturday, I started @ 7:30am was done by 2:00pm..

JJ95GTID · Aug 11, 2005

The driver's side goes in from underneath. Unbolt the steering shaft to make things easier to install the new header.

To get the passenger side header in I had to unbolt that side of the engine's motor mount and lift the engine a little bit. I put a piece of wood between the oil pan and floorjack and raised it slowly about 2". Then you can slide it into place from up top between the engine and strut tower.

BUT, now that I have done a head swap this is what I wished I had done on the passenger side. Remove the serpintine belt. Remove the belt tensioner assembly. Then remove the bracket holding the alternator and air pump(smog) as a unit. Belt tensioner has to come off first because it covers one of the bolts that hold the bracket onto the head. With all that out of the way you can easily install the passenger side header without lifting the engine.

Black95GTS · Aug 11, 2005

94opalgt said:
stock headers are garbage,they are not fine for a bolt on motor.heck they arent even fine for a stock motor they're junk.get them off and get the new ones on,no matter if they are equal or not they will be 100% better than the stock crap thats on it.

Do you have flow numbers or any kind of evidence to support that? Are stock headers an actual bottle neck when coupled with stock heads? I highly doubt it. The stock heads outflow those headers? (They're actually manifolds; I dont think I would actually call them headers).

Summit states that you can make 8-15 hp with the headers. Converted to rwhp via 17% drive train loss you get 6.6 - 12.45. And we know that you're going to be more then likely at the low side due to the weak stock heads / Summit trying to pump up sales.

I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but I've done EXACTLY what you're doing right now, and if I could do over again I would have done it differently. Thats all.

- adam

The NJ Exile · Aug 11, 2005

JJ95GTID said:
The driver's side goes in from underneath. Unbolt the steering shaft to make things easier to install the new header.

To get the passenger side header in I had to unbolt that side of the engine's motor mount and lift the engine a little bit. I put a piece of wood between the oil pan and floorjack and raised it slowly about 2". Then you can slide it into place from up top between the engine and strut tower.

BUT, now that I have done a head swap this is what I wished I had done on the passenger side. Remove the serpintine belt. Remove the belt tensioner assembly. Then remove the bracket holding the alternator and air pump(smog) as a unit. Belt tensioner has to come off first because it covers one of the bolts that hold the bracket onto the head. With all that out of the way you can easily install the passenger side header without lifting the engine.

Damm.. I put both side in from the top.. I didn't even remove the sterering shaft to do it... Hell I didn't even loosen/ jack up the motor...

JJ95GTID · Aug 11, 2005

The NJ Exile said:
Damm.. I put both side in from the top.. I didn't even remove the sterering shaft to do it... Hell I didn't even loosen/ jack up the motor...

Did you install equal lengths or unequal lengths? E/L headers are definately more difficult to fit than U/L headers.

CManT1914 · Aug 11, 2005

Black95GTS said:
The stock heads outflow those headers? (They're actually manifolds; I dont think I would actually call them headers).

Actually they are headers on our cars. The modulars have manifolds.

The NJ Exile · Aug 11, 2005

JJ95GTID said:
Did you install equal lengths or unequal lengths? E/L headers are definately more difficult to fit than U/L headers.

They were equal length (1 5/8 tubes) Chrome BBK shortie. They both went in from the top. The drives side was a real PITA

94MustangGT5.0 · Aug 11, 2005

CManT1914 said:
Actually they are headers on our cars. The modulars have manifolds.

Yeah, are cars definitely have headers, despite how poor of an effort they are, they are not a manifold (cast iron typically). I thought the new '05s have a combination of the two, were they are individual tubes, yet formed like a cast manifold.

Scott_95GT · Aug 11, 2005

-Headers look great under the hood.
-Take a matter of a couple hours to install.
-Can easily be purchased used, as long as the are 1-flange style.
-Can be installed with simple tools you probably already have, and is a good starter project to build confidence on working on your car.
-Will add a couple easy rwhp on a stock motor, a bit more on a modded car.
-No mater what you do to your car, you can still use headers. The needs for other mods such as Intakes, maf's, inj.'s, chips, TB's, can change depending on application (More cubes, power adder, ect.)

IMO the headers are not a bad chioce. Obviously they won't put you in your seat, but they are an all-around nice upgrade.

94GTLaserRC · Aug 11, 2005

Scott_95GT said:
-Headers look great under the hood.
-Take a matter of a couple hours to install.
-Can easily be purchased used, as long as the are 1-flange style.
-Can be installed with simple tools you probably already have, and is a good starter project to build confidence on working on your car.
-Will add a couple easy rwhp on a stock motor, a bit more on a modded car.
-No mater what you do to your car, you can still use headers. The needs for other mods such as Intakes, maf's, inj.'s, chips, TB's, can change depending on application (More cubes, power adder, ect.)

IMO the headers are not a bad chioce. Obviously they won't put you in your seat, but they are an all-around nice upgrade.

And dont forget the sound

V8302stangs · Aug 16, 2005

I decided to stick with the shorty equal lengths. I got them on the car on my own with pretty much average garage tools. It sure was a lot of working and scraping, but otherwise wasn't bad. All I have left now is to put all the externals back on (intake, plug wires, bolt the passenger engine mount, dipstick etc.)

I ordered my BBK shorty equal lengths today yay!

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