Awesome, unfortunately I wasn’t able to find a 195 replacement. I think motorcraft discontinued them and now you can only get the 197 ones.The stock 192-195* thermostat works great in Texas. It's been 100-108* every day here for the last few weeks. You'll be fine.
Just a disclosure, my Mustang isn't running but my 1992 F-150 w/ same engine, same thermostat is. My Mustang has never overheated from the stock thermostat either.
I would move ahead. You should be fine. Monitor closely for the first couple of weeks.Awesome, unfortunately I wasn’t able to find a 195 replacement. I think motorcraft discontinued them and now you can only get the 197 ones.
Stock,these cars are designed to run 195+ and that's optimal for the computer and stuff.So I pulled out my thermostat and it’s a 160 degree. That explains why I’m running so cold now that I upgraded my radiator and fan clutch. Now I’m thinking my car might run too hot with this motorcraft 197 thermostat I’m putting in. @General karthief I remember you live in Florida like me, do you run a stock thermostat and does it work for you in this FL heat?
Check ALL of your hose clamps and hoses in that area, clean it up good, and run it a few times checking for wetness as it cools before you take anything back apart.Well… it was almost a clean job fellas. It’s two weeks later and I noticed a puddle of coolant under the tsat. See the pic below.
I’ll go through how I installed it and if you guys could lmk what I should do different this time I’d appreciate it.
I took off the T stat, scraped both mating surfaces clean, hit them with brake cleaner and dried them, then I put a thin layer of blue rtv on both sides of the gasket… I didn’t do any single bead just a thin layer I spread with my finger, then I put everything together and hand tightened the bolts which I put thread sealer on, then I let the rtv cure and after that I snugged the bolts with a wrench.
Any ideas?
So I couldn’t find for sure the leak but I do know that the hoses are all dry so it’s gotta be the tstat. I’m going to be more liberal with the rtv this time. Last time I put a thin layer just so it’d stick but it probably wasn’t enough to do any sealing.Check ALL of your hose clamps and hoses in that area, clean it up good, and run it a few times checking for wetness as it cools before you take anything back apart.
Try to determine the exact source of the leak.
Great! I’ll try this tomorrowI missed the first go-around but maybe I've caught you in-time for this one...
With the housing removed, flip it upside-down and place the T-stat with correct orientation, into the housing.
--Hold it in place with two small dots of Super Glue and let it dry--
Install as normal with whatever combination of gasket/RTV you prefer. It's impossible for rim of the t-stat to make its way [into the damned way].
Ok, I’ve got my game plan to tackle this issue thanks to your guys’ suggestions. First of all I’m against the clock as I’ve got a guy picking up my car to get painted any day now so I’m kind of rushing.This is the thermostat housing on both of my cars:
Be sure to seal the pipe plug with some thread sealer to make sure it does not leak. I cannot remember if the ones I got had it or not but I know I used it as you can see the white sealer. A good one is Permatex 59235 high temperature thread sealant.
Awesome, unfortunately I wasn’t able to find a 195 replacement. I think motorcraft discontinued them and now you can only get the 197 ones.
Just did the sandpaper test. The housing shined up on all the holes and slightly around the Tstat. See the pic below. Lmk if that needs replacing. I’d assume the whole thing should’ve shined?Another way to hold the tstat in the housing is to loop a rubber band around one of the bars of the tstat and bring them through the housing so that the tension holds the tstat in place. I use a pen or pencil or whatever and feed that through the ends of the rubber band so that holds against the end the hose goes on. Haven’t had an issue as long as the housing is flat.
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