I think i just blew up my car with my new mongoose kit....

#21
Don't bother trying to take the bypass apart - you need circlip pliers first off so that's something else you would have to buy, plus if you damage the diaphragm you're out a bypass valve lol...

Watching the vid in your other thread, nothing sounds "broken." My vote is still a bad coupler and some sorta massive leak. Seems just like what my was doing when I blew the couplers off the pipes.
 
#22
Coupler blew off a pipe. It seems the bend going up into the fender well doesnt have much of a straight section to clamp onto. A buddy of mine (the same guy that had to grab his 30' race trailer to tow me home last night) looked at it and told me to take the dremel tool and go around the outside of the pipe with it to rough it up. With the pipe the way it was, you could pull the coupler off even though the clamp was tight... after the dremel work, you no long could- it was good and tight. How do you guys keep your pipes on? Do you have these problems? I am thinking about ordering longer silicon couplers and maybe doing two clamps to help out. I need this thing as reliable as I can get it.

So hopefully this stays! I got on it pretty hard and it didnt pop off. I am now concearned with my AF ratio. it is ALL OVER the place. When at WOT it dips down into the 11s and climbs up but at some point (hard to watch the road AND look at the guage) it pegs out all the way lean and stays that way even though I am letting off. So I am wondering about the gauge itself now.

I am going to datalog some stuff and send it to tim, hopefully I can get this thing running right. I have 35 hours invested in this project over my Thanksgiving break.... and now I feel like I need another break!
 
#24
SilverBullet00 said:
Coupler blew off a pipe. It seems the bend going up into the fender well doesnt have much of a straight section to clamp onto. A buddy of mine (the same guy that had to grab his 30' race trailer to tow me home last night) looked at it and told me to take the dremel tool and go around the outside of the pipe with it to rough it up. With the pipe the way it was, you could pull the coupler off even though the clamp was tight... after the dremel work, you no long could- it was good and tight. How do you guys keep your pipes on? Do you have these problems? I am thinking about ordering longer silicon couplers and maybe doing two clamps to help out. I need this thing as reliable as I can get it.

So hopefully this stays! I got on it pretty hard and it didnt pop off. I am now concearned with my AF ratio. it is ALL OVER the place. When at WOT it dips down into the 11s and climbs up but at some point (hard to watch the road AND look at the guage) it pegs out all the way lean and stays that way even though I am letting off. So I am wondering about the gauge itself now.

I am going to datalog some stuff and send it to tim, hopefully I can get this thing running right. I have 35 hours invested in this project over my Thanksgiving break.... and now I feel like I need another break!
Click to expand...

Thats good thats what I figured happened.

It never really happened to me when I was making stock boost but when I started upping the boost it was happening quite a bit. I just sent my blower into Votech to upgrade it to a T-Trim so Im putting on all T-Clamps on to get rid of the problem.

I remember the first time I blew off my IC pipe, I thought the same thing you did that I blew my engine. I remeber getting up on it and hearing a woosh sound and then my exhuast was just smoking and the car was surging, I some how made it to a frineds house where it died and I lost all steering and drove into his yard. LOL Every thing looked fine so that really scared me and out off the corner of my eye I saw the IC pipe off. I fixed it and drove it home and the same pipe blew off the next day because I didn't tighten the clamp enough so I cranked it tight and that pipe never blew off since.

I would get the car on a dyno ASAP and see whats going on with it. One thing too, I remeber you saying something about the MAF wires being to short, BECAREFUL with that. I had a shop (that I no longer go to because of this) put an SCT MAF on for me and when they did this they tried streching my wires so tight that the ended up rubbing on a sharp opening. It eventually wore through and cut the wires and was screwing up my MAF readings and shorting out my MAF which was blowing PCM fuses right and left.
 
#25
SilverBullet00 said:
Coupler blew off a pipe. It seems the bend going up into the fender well doesnt have much of a straight section to clamp onto. A buddy of mine (the same guy that had to grab his 30' race trailer to tow me home last night) looked at it and told me to take the dremel tool and go around the outside of the pipe with it to rough it up. With the pipe the way it was, you could pull the coupler off even though the clamp was tight... after the dremel work, you no long could- it was good and tight. How do you guys keep your pipes on? Do you have these problems? I am thinking about ordering longer silicon couplers and maybe doing two clamps to help out. I need this thing as reliable as I can get it.

So hopefully this stays! I got on it pretty hard and it didnt pop off. I am now concearned with my AF ratio. it is ALL OVER the place. When at WOT it dips down into the 11s and climbs up but at some point (hard to watch the road AND look at the guage) it pegs out all the way lean and stays that way even though I am letting off. So I am wondering about the gauge itself now.

I am going to datalog some stuff and send it to tim, hopefully I can get this thing running right. I have 35 hours invested in this project over my Thanksgiving break.... and now I feel like I need another break!
Click to expand...


haha, cool. so you didn't check all the intercooler piping. liar! j/k man. glad it wasn't anything serious.
 
#26
SilverBullet00 said:
Coupler blew off a pipe. It seems the bend going up into the fender well doesnt have much of a straight section to clamp onto. A buddy of mine (the same guy that had to grab his 30' race trailer to tow me home last night) looked at it and told me to take the dremel tool and go around the outside of the pipe with it to rough it up. With the pipe the way it was, you could pull the coupler off even though the clamp was tight... after the dremel work, you no long could- it was good and tight. How do you guys keep your pipes on? Do you have these problems? I am thinking about ordering longer silicon couplers and maybe doing two clamps to help out. I need this thing as reliable as I can get it.

So hopefully this stays! I got on it pretty hard and it didnt pop off. I am now concearned with my AF ratio. it is ALL OVER the place. When at WOT it dips down into the 11s and climbs up but at some point (hard to watch the road AND look at the guage) it pegs out all the way lean and stays that way even though I am letting off. So I am wondering about the gauge itself now.

I am going to datalog some stuff and send it to tim, hopefully I can get this thing running right. I have 35 hours invested in this project over my Thanksgiving break.... and now I feel like I need another break!
Click to expand...

As far as popping pipes off...YES! What I did was buy pipes with flared ends, then on the pieces I had to cut to fit I used some pliers and rolled the end of the pipe out to a conical shape.

I'm not sure about your wideband situation, did you ever figure out if you can recalibrate it, and did you ever do a free-air calibration? Where did you ground it, and what power wire did you use for it? PLEASE don't tell me you used the wires that go to the radio LOL...they have lots of RF interference which will screw with the signal to the wideband and thus give you a false reading. I would checkout AEM's forums for some help.

There is pretty much NO way the tune from Tim is lean right away - my tune was 10.4:1 stock, my buddy with his mongoose'd cobra it was 10.9:1. These tunes are super SUPER conservative, especially right out of the box. 35hrs is a lot, you must take your time :nice:
 
#27
post up some pics of your couplers. they sell some really crappy ones with most IC piping kits. make sure you have some good couplers and get some beads welded on the ends of all the pipes. it should cost less than $50 for all the welding.
 
#28
BennyBlown2v said:
As far as popping pipes off...YES! What I did was buy pipes with flared ends, then on the pieces I had to cut to fit I used some pliers and rolled the end of the pipe out to a conical shape.

I'm not sure about your wideband situation, did you ever figure out if you can recalibrate it, and did you ever do a free-air calibration? Where did you ground it, and what power wire did you use for it? PLEASE don't tell me you used the wires that go to the radio LOL...they have lots of RF interference which will screw with the signal to the wideband and thus give you a false reading. I would checkout AEM's forums for some help.

There is pretty much NO way the tune from Tim is lean right away - my tune was 10.4:1 stock, my buddy with his mongoose'd cobra it was 10.9:1. These tunes are super SUPER conservative, especially right out of the box. 35hrs is a lot, you must take your time :nice:
Click to expand...


10.4 is rich :scratch:

Man what does that make mine? Im setting on a 10.1 :rlaugh:

But in any case, even if it did get to 12.4, it wouldnt matter TOO much.....tim doesnt put any timing in those tunes from the get go. Just get it verified and then fixed if it is infact a 12.4 (doubt it) as soon as you can :nice: .
 
#29
hotmustang331 said:
10.4 is rich :scratch:

Man what does that make mine? Im setting on a 10.1 :rlaugh:

.
Click to expand...

Pig rich :shrug:
I was looking at twin turbo kits too and really like th HP kit, I hate this question but would you mind telling how much your kit was> The HP kit is like 6500 but comes with tubular k member and a-arms with coil overs.
 
#30
small vid of when I got it running today...
View attachment 345843

here is another picture of the setup. I think they are pretty good couplers, they are multilayer and you can see they fiber inbetween the layers....

DSC01531.webp


I still need to check on calibrating the wideband. Something seems off. Today when I was VERY GENTLY driving it, it was all over the place and then finally it was in the 16-17s.... Is the computer trying to learn what is going on? I will datalog it and send it to tim. I am getting ready to send him an email right now.

Untill them I am not getting into the boost.


Also, where is the best place to pick up some aluminum pipe for intercoolers? I am thinking of getting another piping kit and having my buddy weld it for me so I only use 2-3 couplers.
 

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  • DSC01531.webp
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#31
Datalog STFTs (short term fuel trims) and that will show you if your out of wack. Your EEC is using the front 02s to determine A/F for cruizing....your wideband should be hovering around 14-15 A/F durring normal driving or idling. Your STFTs should be hovering around 1.0 I believe.

Laser, check your Pms in a few minutes :D
 
#32
My A/f is starting to calm down a bit. At idle its now starting to hover right around 14.7 which it didnt do with my previous NA tune.

When I slow down or start to let off it still goes all the way lean, but it has started to jump back rich again instead of staying lean, so I think the comuter is learning.

Where is the cheapest place to get silicon hose? I want to get a 3" X 2' piece, but dont really want to pay $ 60 for it.... Any one know where to get the deals at?
 
#33
hotmustang331 said:
Datalog STFTs (short term fuel trims) and that will show you if your out of wack. Your EEC is using the front 02s to determine A/F for cruizing....your wideband should be hovering around 14-15 A/F durring normal driving or idling. Your STFTs should be hovering around 1.0 I believe.

Laser, check your Pms in a few minutes :D
Click to expand...

Right on! :nice:

SilverBullet00 said:
My A/f is starting to calm down a bit. At idle its now starting to hover right around 14.7 which it didnt do with my previous NA tune.

When I slow down or start to let off it still goes all the way lean, but it has started to jump back rich again instead of staying lean, so I think the comuter is learning.

Where is the cheapest place to get silicon hose? I want to get a 3" X 2' piece, but dont really want to pay $ 60 for it.... Any one know where to get the deals at?
Click to expand...
14.7 is normal - mine bounces between 14 and 15 at idle, so you're right there with me. When you let off the gas, it WILL go lean...as expected...it's fine. Think about it, no throttle opening, injectors pull back, exhaust goes lean...it's to be expected. The most useful number is when you're at WOT.

Hoses? - http://www.turbohoses.com/

Best of luck...I read your story, hoping to God it was a simple fix. I too worry about blowing up my DD. :flag: :nice:
 
#37
Tim will tell you that you need to drive the car around w/o getting hitting full boost for 75-100 miles back when I got my kit. Then he wanted to have a dyno preint out sent to him so he could look things over and adjust if need be. Computer needs time (like you are figuring out) go sort itself out and to get things into check. Drive it enough and you'll soon have fun with it......after you put it on a dyno.
 
#39
01BlkGT said:
Computer needs time (like you are figuring out) go sort itself out and to get things into check.
Click to expand...

That's a common missconception. While this was normal practice for the old OBD I computer in the pre-96 cars, the OBD II doesn't need the extensive "learning curve" in order to function properly. They've learned all they're going to by the time you've reached the end of the street.
 
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