srothfuss said:
Burnt fluid can mean:
1) Improper maintanance
2) Clutch material breaking up and being carried around in the fluid
Either case obviously is not good. If your trans fluid has been like that for a while, changing the fluid might do more harm than good. Sometimes if you swap out the fluid carrying the clutch material you can induce slippage and the end of your slushbox. That being said, there is only one way to find out if the fluid was just old.
Remove all of the pan bolts except for 2 or 3 at the front of the pan. Most likely the pan will be stuck to the bottom of the trans so you will need to tap on it or pry it open with a screwdriver. You'll need a very large (diameter) catch can, because the fluid will go everywhere!
Once you have some of the fluid drained out of the pan, hold it in place while you undo the remaining bolts. Lower the pan, drain the fluid and then clean the bottom of that thing out at best you can. Mineral spirits work great. There is probably a bolt holding the filter in place. Locate it and then remove and reinstall the trans filter.
No sealer needs to be used on the new trans gasket. Just reinstall and secure with the bolts you removed before hand. Refill through the trans dip stick tube.
Yeah, if the fluid is too bad, adding new could cause slipping as the detergents in the new fluid eat off the varnish that has built up over time.
There are 3 bolts holding the filter to the valvebody. 2 in the front at one at the rear. Make sure that when you remove the filter, the small rectangle gasket comes off and that the new one goes on. Do not over tighten the bolts, the VB is aluminum and could strip easily.
Now would be a good time to upgrade to an aftermarket pan or at the minimum, install a drain plug. They run about 6.00 at the parts store and require you to drill a 1/2 hole in the pan. This way, next time, you can reduce the amount of fluid you wear.
As stated above, do not use any sealant on the gasket surface, although I have heard of people using a light coat of vasoline to hold the gasket flat. Just put 2 bolts through the pan and gasket to hold it in place and tighten it by hand until you get them all started.
Another option is getting a set of pan studs, makes it easier to get them all started and keep the gasket stratight. You can get them here.
http://www.mmsacc-stainless.com/html/ford_trans.htm
When tightening the pan, snug it em up using a cross pattern, when you tighten them, the should only be snugged good, I beleive the spec is 8-10 ft lbs. The pan is stamped steel and can warp easily.
Fill the pan with 3qts of fluid thru the dipstick hole and with the car level, start it up. You will probably need to add another Qt right away. Run it through the gears, hold each for a few seconds, the check the level again. Drive it for 15 - 20 min and check it again at idle and top it off.
Sometimes people complain after a fluid change about the trans sticking in gears, drive it for a while and see if it clears up after warm. Most of the time its a valve sticking and will clear up when the fluid heats up.
Just keep in mind that you are only changing a small amount of fluid at the pan, You may be able to drain the converter also if you remove the dust cover and look for a small drain plug on the converter. If you drain this, your total fluid needs will jump to 11 - 12 qts.
Finally, you could just take it to a tranz shop and have them perform the service where they suck all the fluid out with a machine and replace it all. This only leaves the filter that would need changing.
Thats all I can think of for now.
If it is auto make sure to change the filter and wipe down the pan while its dropped. I had a lot of sludge build up around the magnet.
