Ideas for Mods

[DocG]

Well I've got this 92 Fox that I've had for a couple months now and haven't really touched except for fixing a power window switch and swapping a leaky breather.

I need a decent heater for my garage but would like to start doing some things to it. Thing is, I'm not sure where else to go and maybe you guys can give me some ideas. There are a couple things I need to fix and will probably start there: non working fuel gauge, power door locks dont' work, slight oil leak (which could be major or minor problem).

Anyways, here's my current mods, if anyone is bored and wants to help me figure out some more work I could do to improve upon what I have. I'm not looking for massive power so no power adders.

Engine:

-306 Short block built by Excessive Motorsports, not sure what is in it. I have a receipt for the block but no details.
-Holley Systemax heads, cam (506 lift), upper/lower intakes
-24lb injectors
-Mac ram air induction kit
-Crane ignition kit
-smog/AC delete
-battery relocated to hatch

Tranny:

-5sp, Centerforce cluth, Pro 5.0 shifter, FMS aluminum driveshaft, firewall adjuster. As far as I know the tranny itself is stock and don't know about any rebuilds.

Rear:

-3.55 gears, limited slip

Brakes:

SSBC front and rear disc brakes, front are slotted, stainless lines
4 lug

Body:

Fresh paint - May 06, black
All trim/molding fresh
New lights all around, even license plate lights, etc.
Fresh hatch/hood bumpers and all those little pieces

Interior:

New carpet, mats.
New seats front and rear
New door panels
New or painted other panels, etc.
Autometer gauges and pods

Exhaust:

Shorty headers
Mac 2.5 dumps and Prochamber

Suspension:

Full length SBC's
Tubular K member
K member brace
Aluminum rack bushings
FMS lower front a-arms
Poly sway bar links
HR race springs
New KYB shocks
CC plates
F/R strut tower braces
93 Cobra sway bar
MMS panhard bar
MMS torque arm
MMS rear LCA's with adjustable perch
MMS solid steering shaft

Wheels:

95 Cobra R 17" with 245/45 all around
Extra set of brand new 16" Ford Racing chrome pony's with new 225/50 tires.




Sooooo.....where to start?

Thought about a 5 lug swap. Problem is I'm not sure if I want to tackle this yet since all the brake hardware is almost new and would be such a waste to ditch it all for 5 lug. Plus I have two sets of 4 lug wheels. I guess I could sell it all for some funds for new wheels/tires.

What are benefits of 5 lug?

Perhaps some long tubes? If I have to pull the motor to fix the oil leak, LT's for sure!

Other ideas?

 

[stykthyn]

do the NAZ 2JZ swap

 

[DocG]

Ummm.....yeah....great idea


Anyone else.

Maybe I'll just spend some time cleaning up the engine bay and undercarriage.

 

[66sprint6]

Sounds like you got a pretty stout setup as it is...ever consider a power adder?
Matt

 

[bynummustang]

Doc, that is the problem of buying a completed project. I'd just do detailing to it. Clean the bay up nicely, then work on the interior.

 

[DocG]

Sounds like you got a pretty stout setup as it is...ever consider a power adder?
Matt

A buddy of mine that lives across the street and is my mechanic guru wants to put a twin turbo in it. Might be more than I'm looking for.

Doc, that is the problem of buying a completed project. I'd just do detailing to it. Clean the bay up nicely, then work on the interior.

Yeah I know. Maybe I will stick with detailing. If the motor ever comes out then do some longtubes. The bay could use some work.....lots of grime and rusty bolts, brackets, etc.

The interior is actually pretty new looking. Not much to be done there except finish grinding out the hack job the last owner did removing the roll cage.

 

[66sprint6]

A good single turbo would be nice, low boost would make some fantastic numbers, be safe and fun to drive...a good supercharger would be pretty fun too!
Matt

 

[1990Coupe]

Doc you got a niceeee setup already.

IMO i would NOT go 5 lug. There are plenty of nice 4 lug wheel options out there and since all your brake components are new, i'd stick with the 4 lug setup.

I would spend my time right now cleaning up the engine bay, under carriage, repainting necessary items to give it that nice and clean look. Then i would turn my attention to cleaning up the hack job the previous owner did removing the old cage, replacing and cleaning interior components as needed..


But before ALL of that, I vote you fix all known issues. Get the door locks working, Fuel gauge, oil leak etc.

I love your ride!!!!

 

[DocG]

Thanks man.

The oil leak is my first priority obviously. Drives just fine with broken power door switches and fuel gauge. Although I only run 100 miles before filling her up since I have no idea waht type of gas mileage she gets....I'm sure its not good.

The oil only seems to drip after its been run and then shut off.

 

[DocG]

Here's some pics.....I suppose there is plenty to do in terms of detailing and painting and cleaning with a toothbrush and junk like that. Its no show car, that's for sure!

Heck, a lot of it I could probably just mask off and get a rattle can and spray some of the brackets and bolt heads and things like that. Get a wire brush and scrape the rust off the suspension stuff.

 

[Strype]

If you go with a power adder you will need to know what kind of compression you have. You'd probably want to know what kind of pistons, valves, cam, rockers etc are on the car. You'll need to know the combustion chamber size. You'll also need to know what kind of fuel pump you have.


If you are not driving it daily, and you just want to be picky and waste money (that's what I do when on the 5.0 kick), you might trade the 3.55's out for 4.10's and throw some drag radials on back. You could free up a little with an electric fan, though I've had nothing but problems with blown fuses and relays doing that. I switched mine back to a clutch fan. You could also put a fuel pressure regulator and guage on it if you don't already have one. There's a release valve on the passenger side fuel rail. You'll just need to cut off the fuel relay behind the driver's brake light and run the car until it dies. Then crank a couple of times to make sure. Press in the valve (without a cigarette hanging from your mouth!) and release what's left in the lines. Then you'll remove the valve from the fuel line and replace it with a brass coupling you can buy from home depot. Add the brass coupling and then the guage with teflon tape. Then replace the FPR. The guage and the FPR are both about $50. Then if you decide on a power adder like nitrous you'll be able to adjust your fuel pressure.

 

[DocG]

If you go with a power adder you will need to know what kind of compression you have. You'd probably want to know what kind of pistons, valves, cam, rockers etc are on the car. You'll need to know the combustion chamber size. You'll also need to know what kind of fuel pump you have.


If you are not driving it daily, and you just want to be picky and waste money (that's what I do when on the 5.0 kick), you might trade the 3.55's out for 4.10's and throw some drag radials on back. You could free up a little with an electric fan, though I've had nothing but problems with blown fuses and relays doing that. I switched mine back to a clutch fan. You could also put a fuel pressure regulator and guage on it if you don't already have one.

I figure if I ever go power adder, I would have to strip down the engine to see what I have inside. Either that or just run it until it blows

I'd have to give some thought to gears. I'd like to start doing some auto-cross with it as well since that seems to be how its built. 4.10's might be too steep for that.

Electric fan....hmmm....be nice to free up weight and power, but I think I'd like to keep it a little more reliable and trustworthy if I ever take her on longer trips or something.

I have a fuel pressure gauge, but its not hooked up. There is a small fuel pressure guage under the hood already.

The regulator seems easy enough.


How about a manual cut-off switch? I was just reading that cars with batteries relocated to rear need to have a manual cutoff switch for the track.

 

[Strype]

I figure if I ever go power adder, I would have to strip down the engine to see what I have inside. Either that or just run it until it blows

I'd have to give some thought to gears. I'd like to start doing some auto-cross with it as well since that seems to be how its built. 4.10's might be too steep for that.

Electric fan....hmmm....be nice to free up weight and power, but I think I'd like to keep it a little more reliable and trustworthy if I ever take her on longer trips or something.

I have a fuel pressure gauge, but its not hooked up. There is a small fuel pressure guage under the hood already.

Dammit Doc everything is done!



Replace the vacuum lines? Add streetglows? Put fireflies on the tire valves?

 

[Strype]

The regulator seems easy enough.


How about a manual cut-off switch? I was just reading that cars with batteries relocated to rear need to have a manual cutoff switch for the track.

If you have a guage on the fuel rail then you prolly have an adjustable fuel regulator



Cutoff switch. Never done that. Good idea tho. Most people I know used the fuel pump relay for security.

 

[Strype]

Dude I have it-


You need to make sure the car has either a shield over the bell housing or a bullet proof bell housing. That car is making some power. Wouldn't want you to become an amputee

Go look under the car. Do it. Do it.

 

[DocG]

Dammit Doc everything is done!



Replace the vacuum lines? Add streetglows? Put fireflies on the tire valves?

How about blinking LED's on my rims?

If you have a guage on the fuel rail then you prolly have an adjustable fuel regulator



Cutoff switch. Never done that. Good idea tho. Most people I know used the fuel pump relay for security.

I might, haven't looked closely enough at it. Seriously, I'm not sure what all has already been done. And I don't know enough about 5.0's yet to know exactly what I'm looking at with everything sometimes.

Dude I have it-


You need to make sure the car has either a shield over the bell housing or a bullet proof bell housing. That car is making some power. Wouldn't want you to become an amputee

Go look under the car. Do it. Do it.

Not making that much power ya jackass!

 

[89stang1]

definitely long tubes since im spendin your money dump those heads on e-bay get some Canfield's or even a set of AFR 185s u could probably get away wit them wit a 306, how about some more lift on dat cam like the one i just sold in corral nobody bought it hear for 130 bucks with pushrods .541 valve lift, then some 373s for sure and off u go lol didnt cost me a penny

Screw it put it on da bottle View attachment 279598

 

[DocG]

WTF is wrong with you! You forget the 347 stroker kit!

Heck, this cam is aggressive enough for street driving. Even as it is, it like to buck around on me unless I leave it in a lower gear and keep the rpm's up while cruising. There is no putting it into 4th at 45-50mph if you like a smooth ride unless you're giving it some solid throttle. Usually have to leave it in 3rd and keep the rpm's around 2500-3000 to keep it smooth.

 

[89stang1]

LMAO u leave like dat your gonna have dose winged 4 spark plug demons blowin by u

 

[timeless2]

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