yup gotta disconnect IAC AND SPOUT in order to do it correctly but the majority of internet "base idle reset" won't tell you that.
ideally you'd watch IPSIBR if you had a way to log it (quarterhorse, tweecer, binary editor, tunerpro, etc) but you don't have that so don't worry about it.
600-650 rpm at a HOT idle is about correct with the iac and spout disconnected. Once you get to that point, shut the key off, disconnect battery (which clears the KAM) and then reconnect spout and iac. Reconnect battery and go for a drive to let everything relearn. I had to learn that the hard way on a 4 cylinder...fought with it for YEARS until someone smarter'n me guided me the right way.
0.99v on the tps is chasing your tail, anything from about 0.50 and 1.19 is fine and 0.99 makes no difference in the long run. The ecu watches the lowest voltage that it sees from the tps (aka TP) called RATCH--which it then determines as closed throttle (CT). Once the throttle voltage increases .04v over RATCH, it then considers it "part throttle" (AKA, APT)