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Idle drops and dies when stopping

  • Thread starter Thread starter yogibear357
  • Start date Start date Oct 28, 2007
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yogibear357

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#21
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #21
yogibear357 said:
I did it still does it
Click to expand...

It only does it with clutch petal in
 

yogibear357

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#22
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #22
Up date. I put another Vss switch in and I cleaned the sensor on the passenger fender don't what it's called has something to do with EGR it was full of dust dirt. Re checked all my ground. Disconnected the battery again. Took a twenty minute ride seems to be better but not perfect. I have to recheck somethings. I ran out of time. Why doesn't it give codes if these sensors are bad?
 

HISSIN50

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#23
  • Nov 4, 2007
  • #23
yogibear357 said:
Why doesn't it give codes if these sensors are bad?
Click to expand...

The computer (primitive in these cars, compared to today's puters) doesn't always have a feedback loop. In other words, the puter doesnt know that the sensor is bad. Add to that, a miscalibrated sensor is often still within absolute specs (no code).
 

yogibear357

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#24
  • Nov 5, 2007
  • #24
Thanks for all the Info and help. I hope the rest is just the tune now
 

ninety15.0

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#25
  • Nov 6, 2007
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Its in the tune man...im telling you. This isnt a sensor problem...its software.

Your 347 has different requirements...and with all the changes made to the car...the computer needs to be up to date with everything. Obviously who ever tuned the car isnt very good at it. This is a simple problem to fix. Refer to my above post...print it out and bring it to your tuner. This WILL fix your problem.
 

yogibear357

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#26
  • Nov 8, 2007
  • #26
ninety15.0 said:
Its in the tune man...im telling you. This isnt a sensor problem...its software.

Your 347 has different requirements...and with all the changes made to the car...the computer needs to be up to date with everything. Obviously who ever tuned the car isnt very good at it. This is a simple problem to fix. Refer to my above post...print it out and bring it to your tuner. This WILL fix your problem.
Click to expand...

I'll be visting him next week. I seem to be having a hard time finding a good tuner in my area. This is my second one
 

yogibear357

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#27
  • Nov 25, 2007
  • #27
I had my chip settings changed to hold the idle up and doesn't help. So I pull the chip out and starting over going through my check list again. I found a lose ground on my motor to the battery. I replace my VSS again. I broke it checking it my fault. My idle is 900 to 1000 and does not drop until I drive it for 10 minutes or so. Then It drops 500 and wants to die only with the clutch in when slowing down or stopping
The Ignition Module on the column could it be the problem I have repaced the Key lock but not the module. Just an Idea!

Thanks again Jeff
 

yogibear357

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#28
  • Nov 26, 2007
  • #28
anyone
 

yogibear357

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#29
  • Nov 27, 2007
  • #29
The Ignition Module on the column could it be the problem ?
how do check it?
 

jrichker

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Did you suceed in setting the base mechanical idle using the "Surging Idle Checklist proceedure? You should be able to get a steady 600 RPM idle on an engine with a mild cam and no mechanical problems.
 

fox racer

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#31
  • Nov 28, 2007
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What the hell is an ISC Dashpot? A TSP? And where is the VSS located? lol Sorry for all the questions.
 

yogibear357

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#32
  • Nov 28, 2007
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Checklist procedure

jrichker said:
Did you succeed in setting the base mechanical idle using the "Surging Idle Checklist procedure? You should be able to get a steady 600 RPM idle on an engine with a mild cam and no mechanical problems.
Click to expand...

I have got it ti idle at 900 to 1000 it runs best there. It runs good Idles great after driving for 10 or 20 minutes it drops when coming to a stop with clutch in. I got home I sat in the drive way pushing the clutch in and out as the idle went from 500 to 900 RPM. So I turn the car off and restart it stops doing it no problems idles fine. I have gone threw the idle check list. I have replaced my key switch but not the ignition module. I am puzzled
 

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yogibear357 said:
I have got it ti idle at 900 to 1000 it runs best there. It runs good Idles great after driving for 10 or 20 minutes it drops when coming to a stop with clutch in. I got home I sat in the drive way pushing the clutch in and out as the idle went from 500 to 900 RPM. So I turn the car off and restart it stops doing it no problems idles fine. I have gone threw the idle check list. I have replaced my key switch but not the ignition module. I am puzzled
Click to expand...

If it won't idle at 600 RPM with a stock or mild camshaft, you have other problems. Vacuum leaks are high on the list of suspect causes.
 

yogibear357

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#34
  • Nov 28, 2007
  • #34
jrichker said:
If it won't idle at 600 RPM with a stock or mild camshaft, you have other problems. Vacuum leaks are high on the list of suspect causes.
Click to expand...

My cam is not mild but is not rat eirther it's a comp XE282HR I have checked for vacuum leaks I wish it was that it would be easy to fix
 

yogibear357

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#35
  • Nov 29, 2007
  • #35
jrichker said:
If it won't idle at 600 RPM with a stock or mild camshaft, you have other problems. Vacuum leaks are high on the list of suspect causes.
Click to expand...

Maybe I am not clear on what it happening here. My Idle drops to 500 with the clutch petal in and when I let it out it goes back up to 900.

900 is what my base Idle is set at

I don't see how this would be a Vacuum leak
 

yogibear357

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#36
  • Nov 29, 2007
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fox racer said:
What the hell is an ISC Dash pot? A TSP? And where is the VSS located? lol Sorry for all the questions.
Click to expand...

the ISC dash pot is a control in the Chip for drive ability

TSP is chemical for cleaning walls and stuff, TPS is Throttle position switch

VSS is Vehicle Speed sensor located on the speedo cable into the Transmission

I believe this correct
 

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If you have a vacuum leak, you will not be able to get the idle speed to stabilize at 600 RPM. The extra air from the vacuum leak will prevent you from getting the idle down that far.
 

yogibear357

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#38
  • Nov 29, 2007
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jrichker said:
If you have a vacuum leak, you will not be able to get the idle speed to stabilize at 600 RPM. The extra air from the vacuum leak will prevent you from getting the idle down that far.
Click to expand...

Not with my set up too low. How would pushing the clutch petal in make a vacuum leak?
 

jrichker

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yogibear357 said:
Not with my set up too low. How would pushing the clutch petal in make a vacuum leak?
Click to expand...

The vacuum leak was there all the time. Pushing the pedal places a load on the engine that causes the computer to try and raise the idle. When the computer cannot control the idle speed because it expects to see 650-725 RPM, it does the surge and die routine.

While you are at it make sure that you don't get a code 67 when you dump the codes. Joel50 has proven that this may cause idle problems too.
 

yogibear357

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#40
  • Nov 30, 2007
  • #40
jrichker said:
The vacuum leak was there all the time. Pushing the pedal places a load on the engine that causes the computer to try and raise the idle. When the computer cannot control the idle speed because it expects to see 650-725 RPM, it does the surge and die routine.

While you are at it make sure that you don't get a code 67 when you dump the codes. Joel50 has proven that this may cause idle problems too.
Click to expand...

The idle drops when pushing the clutch petal down

Why does it not do it all the time?

Why does it stop when I turn the key off and re start the car?

My intake has been milled to fit with new intake gaskets just recently

I have sprayed all around the intake and does not raise idle it stays steady

Vacuum is steady 12 to 14 I pretty sure almost 100% there is no vacuum leaks

It started doing this after I had my Trans fix

I appreciate your in put I going to check again tomorrow thanks Jeff
 
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