IDLE PROBLEM...SOLVED...SORTA!

[MysticKeith50]

Ok, so i got my hands on one of those fancy expensive, snap-on diagnostic tools to troubleshot and run codes. The one (major) one was Low voltage TPS. I guess when i hooked it back up, I did not have the little flat blade of the tb in there right, and it was reading 0.01 . Now it is 0.98 at idle. My only question now is about the IAC. Do these things stick sometimes? I cleaned mine out with carb spray, but it works sometimes and not others. They make you turn on a/c, turn wheel, and you can watch as the iac% compensates to keep an idle. My question is, does anyone know the exact % it should run at idle?, or is it a turn kind of thing?

 

[bill302]

i believe on our stangs(95) either the iac is on or off either it works or not but to test iac you turn ign. switch off disengage wire harness at iac using an ohmmeter measure resistance between terminals of the iac valve if resistance is not 7-13 ohms, iac is bad and replace..the air adjustment is made with the idle air screw which is on top of throttle body under the rubber cap my idle air screw is set at 1&1/12 turns up from bottomed out. when i set mine i turned screw right until bottomed out and turned left and found smoothest idle between 1/2/ turn and 2 turns. i have heard the proper adjustment for this screw is between 1/2 min. turn to 2 max. turns from bottom in between 1/2&2 turns you should achieve a smooth idle.

 

[R.J.]

Setting it like this usually works:

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

 

[BlackVert]

the iac is usually at about 20-25% duty cycle at idle.

yes they can stick. mine was stuck open (carbon deposits) then i cleaned it and it was ok for a couple of weeks then it started sticking either open or closed. that was when i got a new one.

 

[MysticKeith50]

Hey thanks...I am thinking about replacing mine too..it was acting funny. We also had it set at 50%, but hen it was 13%, that is why i think it is sticking sometimes.