Idle Probs, Yeah Ive done everything the search engine suggested, still need help

[fawcett]

Im having a b*tch of a time with this car. almost ready to sell it. I havnt had it all summer.

it was dying on me at the beginning of the summer, thought it was a bad ignition module-replaced it, then thought it was a bad coil- got a new one along with new autolite plugs, and wires. got a new distributer, unhooked my ignition box, hooked it up, have it unhooked again... the car wont idle, the last time i drove it it shuttered missed and had a bad shake. idle held steady at a fuel concious 3600rpm... i did the maf/iac/tb cleaning. someone had a thread with like 5 steps from musclemustangsandfastfords.com or something, went through all of that stuff. its not like i havnt read every thread on this crap, i just cant get this thing to work and the season is almost over here in Ma. I need to race this thing. anyone who can help me out will be my best friend. im almost ready to say f-it pull the motor, wiring, and computer and start over....

maybe my computer got shorted out?
oh and there are no codes comming up either and no vacuum leaks.

save me from going insane/postal
-fawcett

1995 gts, frpp 340bhp 302, track heat, 65mmfrpp tb, pro m 80, all mallory ignition components, hifire digital ignition box, distributer, plugs, coil. d&d t56, alum d/s, 3.73's brembos all around and more....

 

[final5-0]

Have you always had these issues?

A little more history with details would help.

Don't know what that motor in the sig means as far as cam or inj size so a little more detail would help also.

Grady

 

[donkey_punch]

are you sure that you had the motor on top dead center, on the correct revolution when you installed the new distributor? when i swapped mine out, i had it on TDC but on the wrong revolution and it would sputter, shake, and was a bitch to keep at idle.
i put it back at what i thought was TDC, pulled the dizzy, turned the motor by hand one complete revolution back to the correct TDC, put the dizzy back in and was good as gold.

 

[R.J.]

If the car is idleing at 3600, the IAC that you cleaned might need to be replaced but if it is not bad, try mechanically adjusting your idle. Like this:
'94-'95

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

 

[fawcett]

guys thanks for the quick reply. i have an e-cam with gt40x heads, 24lb injectors.... im trying to remember things that i have that i might have missed... aeromotive fpr set at around 38-40psi, full exhaust-unequal length shorties, o/r h-pipe, delta flows. i also have march pulleys but those mean nothing... i guess the dizzy could be off. i had to get a different gear for the bottom of the thing. it came with one that was for a non-hydrolic (solid) cam. from what i heard the thing would get chewed up and ruin my motor (not sure how true that is if anyone knows please chime in).

after i replaced the coil, wires, plugs, unhooked-rehooked-and unhooked my ignition box and replaced my ignition module i caved and gave it to a local speed shop. they have several race cars that they race at the New England Dragway in Epping. they were the ones who installed the dizzy and replaced the gear at the bottom of it. i would hope that they could install it correctly, could my aftermarket cam throw them off? ill bring this up to my mechanic tomorrow but what the hell else could be causing me such problems? maybe my computer got zapped but i have no idea how that could have happened, what effect would bad o2's have? they may have oil on them from a leak i had a while back but that was before i had any of the problems that i have now.

like i said i havnt had my stang all summer and the racing season is almost over, wheres my new best friend?

-fawcett

 

[HoofnIt]

It really sounds to me like your problem is with the distributor. After my HCI it took me several times to finally get that stupid thing in there right. I know this may sound redundant but I would check all of your electrical connections. I also found out after much frustration that my MAF was not making a good connection.

 

[fawcett]

i gave my mechanic all of these posts plus a print out of those 5 steps for a better idle that i talked about above.

this is definatly not the way i envisioned my car going when i first started to modify it.
i guess i have a case of the "modification blues"
damn that speed bug....

if anyone else out there in stangnet.com land has any further advice im all ears baby.

-fawcett

 

[fawcett]

just talked to my mechanic, he said hes got the thing running, but it still has hesitation from off the line. i guess they are soaked in gas so he is going to change the plugs (again) tomorrow and hopefully that will solve my cars problems. i told him to try to get the idle set around 1000rpm. the march pulleys seem to reduce my alternaters voltage output at low (read idle) rpm's which in turn causes my car to be more prone to stalling with say the a/c heat on or when i turn my steering wheel.

what a pain in the ass, i want an 05-06 GT. too bad its not in the budget, either way its still much cheaper to hook my 95 up than it is to buy and accessorize a new car - not to mention that my insurance has to be about $600 cheaper.

looks like my next mods will be black corbeau cr1 seats and belts, a black carpet, and a pms. then its on to the suspension!
(that is unless other problems arise first)

-fawcett

 

[fawcett]

btw, i just got a new iac, will it just bolt up to any t/b? im thinking of getting rid of my sn95 intake set up and going with a fox style intake set up. the reason for this of course is so that i can buy a new 75mm tb from accufab and get rid of my 65mm frpp tb.

-fawcett

 

[a50sn95]

I have a 75mm SN-95 TB on my Street Heat and Trick Flow Elbow....
I certainly wouldn't switch just for that.
Your stalling issues are because of the mods, not the low voltage at idle.
You can tune it out, once you get some way to tune it.
Mine idles at 750, with the Cobra R Alternator pulley. (BIG, and also low voltage at idle.)

 

[xr8d302]

Good luck on this one man, let us know how it goes

 

[fawcett]

a50sn95: the reason im thinking of switching to a fox style intake system is because ive read several times about companies like accufab who dont even bother making an after market t/b for us 94-95gt's simply because of the elbow. i dont remember off the top of my head but they didnt (continue to) produce t/b's for 94-95's because they didnt make any more power. i simply dont like the way the air is comming in my engine, it starts out at my pro m 80 maf, through my wide air intake tubing purchased through pro m (from the lower part of my fender) through a skinny 65mm t/b to a wide (90mm i believe) intake opening. im thinking that straightening the air way will promote smother power and result in both a higher average and peak hp gains. honestly i dont expect the gains to be too much but what im looking for is better drivablility.

these are just some of my thoughts, if someone can prove me wrong i'd appreciate it b/c then i wouldnt have to spend the time and money to re-mod something i already modded. i'd be interested in any 75mm t/b but bbk's, i think that they make sub par products and i wouldnt spend my money on them.

-fawcett

 

[fawcett]

UPDATE: I printed out all of the things i could find on my idle situation and gave them to my mechanic in a big packet. he went through some of the things he thought were wrong or needed adjustment/cleaning. today he said that it was running but it still had a bit of lag on the lower rpms. he said the new plugs were ruined-totally soaked in gas. he changed them out and things are looking pretty good for me and my mustang now. im not sure if my ignition box is hooked up or not, id like it to be but if it runs i guess i dont care. i may send it back to mallory to have them check it out if its not hooked up. if it checks out ok i may either hook it up again or just sell it and get a new (read better) one.
thanks for the help guys, ill send out a post when i get the damn thing back and you can bet your lives that ill have some new and better times.
New England Dragway Here I Come- Watch Out 12's!

-Fawcett

 

[a50sn95]

a50sn95: the reason im thinking of switching to a fox style intake system is because ive read several times about companies like accufab who dont even bother making an after market t/b for us 94-95gt's simply because of the elbow. i dont remember off the top of my head but they didnt (continue to) produce t/b's for 94-95's because they didnt make any more power. i simply dont like the way the air is comming in my engine, it starts out at my pro m 80 maf, through my wide air intake tubing purchased through pro m (from the lower part of my fender) through a skinny 65mm t/b to a wide (90mm i believe) intake opening. im thinking that straightening the air way will promote smother power and result in both a higher average and peak hp gains. honestly i dont expect the gains to be too much but what im looking for is better drivablility.

these are just some of my thoughts, if someone can prove me wrong i'd appreciate it b/c then i wouldnt have to spend the time and money to re-mod something i already modded. i'd be interested in any 75mm t/b but bbk's, i think that they make sub par products and i wouldnt spend my money on them.

-fawcett

I doubt that's the real reason they didn't make them. More likely, they didn't think they would sell enouigh of them to justify the engineering costs (meaing they just wrote us SN95 guys off...). As far as not making more power, yeah, I'd buy that on the stock manifold with it's contortions. Add to it that it also is a big cause of idle issues with our computers, and it can of sound like it might not be worth it. I have the Professional Products, which is a ripoff of the Edelbrock. I actually think it's a nice throttle body. The BBK is actually madeby Edelbrock, so it's likely to be a nice piece too. I also am dissapointed with some of my BBK purchases.
Anyway, it's up to you to do what you think is best. I don't think the TFS intake was 90mm unless you specifically ordered that one from them. The elbow is 75mm if it's fairly recent.

 

[fawcett]

a50sn95: youre right, the track heat has a 75mm inlet. either way, i dont like the way air gets into my engine. 80mm mass air, same width intake tubing (also from pro m), 65mm frpp tb, 75mm trick flow elbow and 75mm track heat intake opening (with spacer). i would bet that the pinch on my intake charge hurts my cars performance. its ultimatly my bad for not going big enough so i gotta eat up the losses.

as soon as i pay these guys, im driving to NH, Street Night B*tches!!!
(thats as long as things go as i hope, which never happens with this car)

anyone have 60ft tips for a kid with 3.73's, a 6-speed trany, around 285rwhp, and 10.5in cobra r's w/ dry weather only kumhos and a staging lane w/ h20 all over it b/c no one knows how to burn out/stage???

-Fawcett