idle prolbem. already searched

I have read the past posts and cannot find the answer. the past posts talk about the iac, tbs, collant tems sensor, timing and base idle. the tbs, iac ant the coolant temp sensor have been replaced, along with the base idle and the timing being adjusted. the car still dies when I start it after it has sat for around 5 hours. If it sits for anyamout of time after that it will not die and stay running. I think that the "memory" in the computer is being deleted after some time, but it is not my battiery because my radio always has the same setting and the car cranks with no prolbems. also anyone got any ideas or thoughts on how to fix my idle prolbem?


Also, what shoud my idle speed be set at? I did the idle like this article says.(http://www.muscularmustangs.com/idlereset.html)
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
 
Vac leaks can cause all types of idle problems, and can be a real pain in the A** to find..I suggest pull codes first, then check EVERY vac line. I found mine after about 20x it was in the passenger fender by the shock tower, after that she idled like a champ...even with the H/C/I.
 
no mods to the engine yet. I want to fix what is wrong befor I start modding. I have shot b12 all over the entire engine and found no vac leaks. I will try the code tomorrow, or maybe later today if I feel like it. also how do I know what 2 flashes then 3 flashes then 2 flashes means? would it be a code 232?
 
notsoswwuyd said:
no mods to the engine yet. I want to fix what is wrong befor I start modding. I have shot b12 all over the entire engine and found no vac leaks. I will try the code tomorrow, or maybe later today if I feel like it. also how do I know what 2 flashes then 3 flashes then 2 flashes means? would it be a code 232?
i think JR's links will provide you with the necessary info. pay attention to all codes, esp EGR codes, ACT and ECT codes.

foxes use 2 digit codes; SN's 3 digit codes.

good luck.