If 10 degrees BTDC is standard timing, what is advance?

[JJFIVEOH]

the open loop mode only uses certain sensors such as tps,etc. when a certain temp is achieved the closed loop begins and all sensor inputs are used to tune air/fuel mixture.

I'm really glad that you mentioned that because you just proved my theory. I had heard about this in the past so about a year and a half ago whenever I pulled the car off the trailer to warm it up, I would let the motor get up to about 200-205 degrees before I turn the fan on. Ever since then it has been much more consistent. I have 1 quick question though. If I do lock down the timing, don't I need an "empty" or dummy spout to put into the connector to at least close the circuit? Or do I just leave it empty? Sorry, I am very familiar with everything else except for trying to figure out the factory computer. I have made the car extremely consistent for bracket racing, but we all know how it goes. If you get some spare time to change things, we're gonna, lol.

 

[troyGT03]

as far as my knowledge, you just leave the spout disconnected. it is just a "jumper" or wire to complete that circuit. the connector closes the circuit allowing the computer to control timing advance and leaving it out opens the circuit relying on base timing as the factor to use. if i am not totally correct somebody will let me know.

 

[nosmatt]

well, you need to also remember, whatever you run initial, the computer is going to add it's timing to it.........then, you need to really start worrying about your total timing. at WOT, the computer is not in closed loop.

i dont care what any sensors sans the maf, and tps are doing, you dont need any others at wide open throttle....


so, say you have an al9, that adds areound 26* on the top, you run stock intial of 10*, thats 36* total timing.

now, run 20* initial, if you have no way to tune the eec, and remove some top end timing, your going to be running 46* of total timing, which is not good on any combo i have ever seen.

the 20* may help you in the low and mid range, but at the top end, that extra 10* is costing power.
no two ways about it.


the eec tuner, and tweecer are your freind..........

fwiw, i ran 17# of boost on a 89 with 9.85:1 compression, on 91 octane cali pump gas, and it did NOT ping ever. (tfs heads)

i also ran 17* initial timing on that motor......but, i ran 15* TOTAL timing, and i ran NO boost retard device.

 

[slow5poh]

hissin, i don't know what a piezo sensor is, i have never heard of one.
And im a parts dude so i know my sensors. what is it?

 

[HISSIN50]

hissin, i don't know what a piezo sensor is, i have never heard of one.
And im a parts dude so i know my sensors. what is it?

It is a knock sensor.

 

[JJFIVEOH]

well, you need to also remember, whatever you run initial, the computer is going to add it's timing to it.........then, you need to really start worrying about your total timing. at WOT, the computer is not in closed loop.

i dont care what any sensors sans the maf, and tps are doing, you dont need any others at wide open throttle....


so, say you have an al9, that adds areound 26* on the top, you run stock intial of 10*, thats 36* total timing.

now, run 20* initial, if you have no way to tune the eec, and remove some top end timing, your going to be running 46* of total timing, which is not good on any combo i have ever seen.

the 20* may help you in the low and mid range, but at the top end, that extra 10* is costing power.
no two ways about it.


the eec tuner, and tweecer are your freind..........

fwiw, i ran 17# of boost on a 89 with 9.85:1 compression, on 91 octane cali pump gas, and it did NOT ping ever. (tfs heads)

i also ran 17* initial timing on that motor......but, i ran 15* TOTAL timing, and i ran NO boost retard device.

So what advantages, if any, is there to locking down the timing? I know a couple of guys that have done it without any problems. I was under the impression that if I locked it down that it would keep the computer from making any small changes that it wanted to over the course of a run based on the sensor inputs. I know it might be minimal, but .01 or .02 seconds makes a big difference. Also, if I locked it down, you're saying that I will not be able to run 20 degress initial anymore and I'd have to set it to a happy medium like 15 correct? Again, sorry for all the questions, but I hear different stories from different people and trying to figure the EEC has never been an exact science to most people, lol.

 

[HISSIN50]

With locked timing, you find a happy middle ground (like 27-30*, for example) since the puter wont be adding anything at any time. Some forced induction guys do this but with handhelds being more common, that number is falling.

So now you would have total timing of say 27-30* (at all times). If you used the computer control (SPOUT in, timing set at 15*), you would see numbers ranging from ~20 to 40*

Good luck.