If you have done a PI intake swap (NIP heads) pleeeeze help me!!!!!!!!

[COramprat]

Oh...one other little problem. The coolent nipple from the waterpump resevoir to the coolent tube. I first tapped on it thinking it would pop right out. I ended up flaring the end before I realized I should have put the socket over the end and whacked on it. I then was able to knock it loose but had to get a Sawsall from my neighbor to cut the flare off. Still not too bad but it did set me back about 30 minutes.

 

[1992 2.3LX]

any numbers yet? i sure would really like to do this. just need a little bit of money.

 

[COramprat]

any numbers yet? i sure would really like to do this. just need a little bit of money.

I didn't dyno mine with the old intake manifold but I had 15 runs at the track. My best was a 14.7 (twice) a 14.8 a 14.9 and some 15.0 and 15.1's. So on the average I had a 14.85 car before the swap. I'm going to run next Wednesday so I'll be sure to post my results.

 

[mr. jones1]

I only have about ten sets left. That will be the end of adapter plates.
For those that had to tap the coolant crossover I found a place you can order a tap on the internet $7.50 + shipping. I will add this to my site.

I did buy a used vortech supercharger that will be installed on the mustang. I needed a few parts to complete the kit. Then I will tune and dyno the car again, should be a nice addition.

 

[AirWolf87]

I only have about ten sets left. That will be the end of adapter plates.
For those that had to tap the coolant crossover I found a place you can order a tap on the internet $7.50 + shipping. I will add this to my site.

I did buy a used vortech supercharger that will be installed on the mustang. I needed a few parts to complete the kit. Then I will tune and dyno the car again, should be a nice addition.

your plates have a smooth transition from the manifold to the heads right?
that way im sure boost isnt a problem, but just the PI manifold bolted to the NPI heads i could see air building up pressure where the ports meet and blowing the gasket.

 

[mr. jones1]

I don't expect a problem. I was just listing the next mod.
I know some were interested in how plates would work with pressure.
The plates are made of t6 alum., it is one of the strongest. I did not want the plate to flex between the gaskets. It was layed out in a CAD file then you download that file into a "waterjet cutter" This machine cuts with high pressure water. Each plate is exactly the same. The hand blending is a manual task, A little time consuming. thats why I don't list all of the plates for sale at the same time.

My goal all along was to keep this car reliable and still have a little power. This car is my son's. (I get to play mechanic) He needs a car that will last four years thru college.
The manifold swap has been trouble free. We looked at head and cam swap but I was not looking forward to the work. We looked into a replacement motors- crate dohc and used dohc. He bought the vortech after a lot of research. this looked like the best power added for his situation. If you stay out of the boost you don't really effect the motor. We will have a conservative setup 6-8lb boost.

You see we have a in house rival ford verse chevrolet

 

[1992 2.3LX]

I only have about ten sets left. That will be the end of adapter plates.
For those that had to tap the coolant crossover I found a place you can order a tap on the internet $7.50 + shipping. I will add this to my site.

I did buy a used vortech supercharger that will be installed on the mustang. I needed a few parts to complete the kit. Then I will tune and dyno the car again, should be a nice addition.

damn! they are all sure to be gone by the time i get back from Italy

 

[COramprat]

Question...how do I know if I'm running rich or lean without an A/F meter? Would I throw a lean code from the computer? I have driven it about 100 miles since the swap and have got on it pretty good but no pinging so thats a good thing right? Also though I'm drinking gas now. I'm at 1/2 tank at 100 miles. I'm hoping this is just the computer learning new settings and will fix itself after a few hundred miles.

 

[AirWolf87]

Question...how do I know if I'm running rich or lean without an A/F meter? Would I throw a lean code from the computer? I have driven it about 100 miles since the swap and have got on it pretty good but no pinging so thats a good thing right? Also though I'm drinking gas now. I'm at 1/2 tank at 100 miles. I'm hoping this is just the computer learning new settings and will fix itself after a few hundred miles.

thats a good question im also worried about leaning out. no pinging at all here either when i took it for a drive today so i guess thats good....just gatta keep an eye on the plugs i guess.

 

[mr. jones1]

I had the x-pipe w-cats on my car before the manifold swap.
so if your car has stock exhaust I don't know if it will be the same as my car.
when I had the car tuned I expected it to be lean. The first run showed that the car was rich. 11-1 air to fuel ratio. thats not what the tuner or I expected. The computer over compensated. I had no codes and over 200 miles on the swap. 11-1 will not hurt the engine. 13-1 would be perfect. after tuning (custom chip) we picked up 6hp and now have a 13-1 ratio.
I would recomend that you pull a plug after 200 miles. You should pull it from a warm engine after a spirited run; not lots of city or idling. note that unleaded gas does not give good plug readings.
A shop could run a wide band o2 sensor and tell you exactly where you stand.

 

[mr. jones1]

well I will post my results. I should install the vortech this weekend.
I don't see how the gaskets could move. the plates are very strong t6 alum.
I did this so there would be no flex in them. The gaskets are reinforced and should not move.

 

[mr. jones1]

supercharger is in. 9 pounds max. @6000rpm
plates and gaskets are holding up. Now its time for more dyno tuning.
I may need new injectors if the 19lb's are maxed out.
car pull strong-feels like a bigger motor.
I will take some pics and post on web site
www.unitedmajority.com and here

 

[COramprat]

So far so good on mine. My SOTP factor has dropped now but it could just be I've gotten used to it. Going to the track tommorow to see waht I can do.

My gas mileage problem I had after the install was I left my MAF sensor dangling into the engine bay. . Now my mileage is actually better than before. I've gained about 1 mile per gallon. Also an overheating problem I had before seems to be gone. On hot days i'd have the temp needle around the A and L on NORMAL at 80mph. Now it stays on the R to M. SO that's a good thing.

 

[mr. jones1]

good to here everything worked out. I would expect about a .2 improvement.
Are you running the stock thermostat ?
I just installed a 180 deg. stat, car ran cool before but a few degrees cooler may allows a few more degrees in the timing.
keep us informed on your track results.

 

[AirWolf87]

Ive had my PI intake in for a few weeks now too. everything worked out fine too. I had a CEL after the instal, but it went away and hasnt returned. SOTP feel was great, but now im used to it, dont remember what it was like before. The reason some of you SOTP feel might be gone is that after a while the comp realizes how much air it is taking in and corrects the fuel curve (usualy overcompensates, making you lose a little bit of power) Im also running a cold air intake and removed the MAF screen, both have been proven to lean you out a little, so i think my code was a lean code, but now that the computer made up for it, im not running as lean as i was, but still more so than normal, so thats good. A tune should make it even better though.
My gas mileage has gone down the crapper tho. I dont think it has anything to do with the manifold though. Im pretty sure its my heavy foot. The car pulls so nicely up top and sounds soooo good above 4000rpm that i tend to stretch gears more often. Oh well, overall, worht the work and every single penny. Besides gears, i think this may be one of the top mods for NPI guys.

 

[mr. jones1]

The cold air filter can be trickie. If its a straight filter alignment removing the screen is probably ok. If its in the fender I think you you should leave the screen.
The screen helps the maf sensor measure the air accurately. The bend in the pipe (fender setup) between the filter and MAF effect air flow.

When you remove the screen the calibration of the MAF is off.
retuning would be required to correct this.

 

[COramprat]

good to here everything worked out. I would expect about a .2 improvement.
Are you running the stock thermostat ?
I just installed a 180 deg. stat, car ran cool before but a few degrees cooler may allows a few more degrees in the timing.
keep us informed on your track results.

I replaced the thermostat last summer when I was trying to run down my overheating problem. But it was with the stock temp rating. Couldn't find one cooler. I may just order one and swap it out. I also put my CAI piece from the MAF to the TB back in but for some reason I think that has hurt. It gets really hot, almost too hot to touch, so I'll probably just put the stock accordian back in for the track.