Ignition again ???

[dartvader]

ok here we go again, and yes I have searched, I just wish more people post when they have actually solved there problems .
last time I had a bad PIP in the distributor, changed it and it was fine fore a couple of days , now surging, stalling sometimes it would cut out fore like a split second then go again, and it s hard to start it cranks ok but sometimes it wont fire if you don't step on the gas
now I have good fuel pressure 36 psi at idle, new IAC new ignition module all the grounds seem fine, new plugs, checked the wires fore spark all are good so the only 2 sensor not changed yet are the TPS and the air charge temp sender , but I doubt those can cause these symptoms, but then again I wouldn't now
I also have a chip with the egr and smog pump deleted, the car was idling and running fine before all this crap ,sorry fore the long post :Zip2:

 

[HISSIN50]

More specifics please. The car can run fine, but it will occasionally burp and stall or idle real funky? Sometimes it cranks over for an extended period and won't catch until you press the gas pedal?
I think that's about right.

First thing is pull codes.

When does it cut out? Only at idle or does it happen while cruising along at 2K RPM (for instance) as well?

Also let us know what the PIP fix was last time. A reman'd dizzy or a new PIP sensor.

If the issue is narrowed down a little, it'll be easier for us to make semi-educated or logical guesses (I can think of at least 10 things right now that it could be - posting those would not help).

Good luck.

 

[dartvader]

Hi Hissin I'll try to be more specific, when I start the car it will fire but then shut down right away, then to be able to start it I must help with the throttle, when it starts it surges and idles real rough I must help it with the throttle if I want to go anywhere.
it cuts out more at cruising, like its losing spark fore a splitsecond but then catches on again..
last time we just changed the PIP sensor, same msd distributor...
I know its not the tune cause the car was running and idling fine before this and I just got the chip back with the only change a richer tune and its doing the same thing
so before I send the chip fore reburn it was doing the same thing
I'll see if I can find someone to retrieve codes fore me on monday, Thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

Kenny, talk about a chip is makin me wonder whatcha got going on under that hood.

The IAC is likely for the starting issue where you need to feather the pedal (You know the car has spark and fuel but requires your input to keep it from stalling. That suggests a sensory input or actuation issue). I'd try and clean the IAC up.

The cutting-out at speed sounds like a separate issue. It could be a few things - it would be nice to have code info as I would really just be guessing or shotgunning ideas and systems to check. If you have the ability to view PIDs, that can be helpful (in case your friend who pulls codes can do that). Otherwise, you can pull codes with a cheap reader of a paperclip (or in your case, a fish hook would work. ).

Sorry to not be of much help at this time...........

Good luck.

 

[dartvader]

the IAC has been on the car fore like 3 months less than 200 miles, I still have the old one, I can try it, I'll try to get some codes first thing tommorow, I hope to get this thing running right before they open the track. I'll let you know, thanks

 

[dartvader]

Ok got 3 codes 511, 536, 632, the guy with the scanner told me only the first code 511 is important the other ones are fore testing
I swapped the IAC and it did not make any difference so we can rule that sensor out..
btw I checked the wires around the computer and found the ground wire a little loose, this may be the cutting out problem, doesn't seem to be cutting out anymore, but the surging and stalling are still there, Im leaning towards a sensor TPS ?? cause the car has good power while driving

 

[HISSIN50]

Ok got 3 codes 511, 536, 632, the guy with the scanner told me only the first code 511 is important the other ones are fore testing
I swapped the IAC and it did not make any difference so we can rule that sensor out.. I hope this code can help troubleshoot my problem ......

511 should be because of your chip. If you cleared the codes, pulled the chip and re-ran codes, it would likely go away. I would *not* sweat that code right now.

You have an AODE right? During KOER, it sounds like the person pulling codes did not hit your brake or the OD switch (like they were supposed to).

If that's all so, you likely have no codes.

If it's not possible that the new PIP taking a dump, I'd only be crudely guessing at this point. I'd go around and wiggle test things like the ignition switch and ignition wiring (not the spark or coil wires though) and see if it acts up.

Maybe someone with a similar experience can chime in.

Good luck.

 

[dartvader]

You have an AODE right? During KOER, it sounds like the person pulling codes did not hit your brake or the OD switch (like they were supposed to).

he didn,t he was in a hurry

if it s not possible that the new PIP taking a dump

I was thinking that too , just going to order a new PIP new TPS sensor and new air temperature sensor see if I get lucky, but its going to be like 2 weeks before I get everything down here
but I'll let You know when I fix this, thanks again

 

[dartvader]

well haven't fixed the problem yet but , I got a TPS sensor shipped from another island closebye, but its not the TPS, same problem funny thing is when a friend of mine pulled the spout out the car idled better it actually idled at about 900 without stalling, when the spout was reinstalled the idle went up but it would surge and die
played around with the timing but it made no difference

 

[HISSIN50]

Is your base timing sitting around 20-24* with the SPOUT installed? What does it idle at with the SPOUT installed? If you get a ways above the commanded idle, it can cause surging as the computer tries to lower the idle back to stock.

With more radical combos and chips, that introduces a lot of variables (this is where it's nice to be able to datalog or view PID's).

For your ACT, you can ohm it out (disconnect the sensor and probe across its leads):

at ~50*F, look for ~58K ohms.
at ~70*F, look for ~37.5 ohms.
at ~120*F, look for ~11K ohms.

 

[dartvader]

base timing is set now 15* base without spout, with spout haven't checked will do tommorow, this thing is driving me nutssssssss