Ignition switch wiring & nss voltage should be?

Just wondering.I have a car and the cars not running anymore . I’m looking the ignition wires because I was going to do a ignition wire connector fix from lmr but I’m noticed wires aren’t where they should go on the connector. Question is does it make a difference? Would it work any different if connected in wrong areas?Another question. How ones the nss have voltage? With key on? Ground? No wires have light with test light the blue and yellow or the 3 blue red wires. I not have them connected they are hanging should there be voltage to them without them being connected? I took tif to have t3st3 it passed pip I believe works I have noid light, 12 v to coil both sides also I have 12v on the red green wire at the switch that why I’m asking to check for open circuit open fuse link from coil red green to ignition red green but it’s not in the position it should be like the diagram shows. It’s across the way opiste side any info greatly appreciated. O nss connector is bypassed with som3 metal thing in there but not sure if any connectors were connected at nss would car start without them being connected?

Mustang5L5 said:

What year is this car?

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Sorry late response it’s a 92 gt

jrichker said:

Recall on Ford Ignition switches:

Revised 7-June-2014 to add Torx bit picture and source. Also added replacement ignition switch wiring pigtail picture, part numbers and sources.

Some of the symptoms of ignition switch problems are things that don’t work or are intermittent like radio, turn signals, wipers or heater.

There was a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. They overheat and sometimes catch fire. That burns up the steering column and sometimes the car interior. Since this is very old information, you may not be able to get the switch replaced for free anymore. The auto parts stores sell the switches for $13-$15.

While you are working on the switch, check the wiring and connector closely. A replacement connector with new wiring pigtails is available from most auto parts stores

AutoZone and Advanced Auto Parts have the same Part Number: 434 - may have to order, not always in stock

Advanced Auto Parts alternate part number: PT5534

Saleen0679 was nice enough to dig this up for us awhile back: How to replace ignition switch on 1979-1993 Mustangs.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/5657/


Torx bit set from Advance Auto Parts

Autocraft torx bit set – have small hole in tip for tamper proof screws.
Part No. AC571/W1386 Cost approx. $12 +tax

Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Ignition switch wiring


Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

O2 sensor wiring harness
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangO2Harness.gif

Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

HVAC vacuum diagram
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Mustang_AC_heat_vacuum_controls.gif

TFI module differences & pin out
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif

Fuse box layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

87-92 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif

93 power window wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif

Visual comparison of the Ford Fuel Injectors, picture by TMoss:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg

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Ive replaced everything new from lmr with exception of changing fuse links and sending ecu to have checked. I have crank, and so confused changing everything from my running daily fox to this other fox. I do have the white pink stripe wire not connected thou. Someone ran a blue wire from where the pink white wire goes on ignition connector straight to starter solonid middle screw. It cranks no start. I connected the pink white wire in its place where it should be on the ignition connector and found the red blue stripped wire by solonid on the harness. Connected that wire the way it should be ran and I got no crank this time . Also the nss red blue wire connector has a clip in there and both connectors at the nss (blue yellow) not connected but the car was running this way! How should I be running these wires. There was a alarm in there. Honestly I’m not sure if I messed with anything in this area other then the ignition wires. Car was running fine I needed new alternator bought one 2 weeks ago new dynomod distributor have pip signal I have a noid light,have spark I could see it in the spark checker, had tfi tested at auto zone 2 days ago. Bought new battery,terminals,coil, starter solonid,act ,etc, sensor tps set steady under a bolt at .97,added new starter last week. Using the 92 original starter wire on a mini starter cut off the rings at the solonids, ran trigger wire to neg other think wire on neg I believe,new fuel relay wot realy, new fuel pump,filter. Good working fuel injectors,can was running fine I bought it from someone was a daily for them I decide to change things to my linking.So what do you think could the car run without the pink white wire connected? Why do you think they ran a wire straight from the spot where pink white wire on the ignition connector to the starter solonid?

I’m on compression stroke using tsp indicator stabbing distributor like in the pic close to Tdc marker on pulley. Fuel pressure on gauge shows 40 steady will drop to 20 after few min and so on after. Checking over and over stabbing over and over cranking over and over. Changed iac from working car still crank no start.Fireing order inspected,verified. I have 12 volt both sides coil. 12 volts at red green wire ignition. Have 12 volts any injector and I have injector pulse. Turn key on with test light have light at 3rd wire from bottom on tfi I believe it’s the same green red coil wire. In trunk I do hear pump come on. I even put test light it comes on both sides of switch. Actually mo switch ran both wires toghter butt connected good.Ran codes code 67 85 10 11 nothing to me. 85 I’m running egr delete. The 67 ? The car does crank without depressing the clutch or pressing the clutch both ways. Just turn the key.I opened the Ecu while back and the capacitors look ok. Well not bloated(I’m no exert to know if they might be getting bloated so they could be) they aren’t leaking.I ran a da1 it cranks no start. When I did this I did use a bap sensor with the vacuum line behind manifold and disconnected the maf connector. No start.O new fuel pressure regulator. Disconnected vacuum line there no gas.Please guys any help is appreciated I’ve been working on this car every weekend past 2 months I don’t have time during the week. I was out there till 2 am last night past 2 nights and getting on it at 7 am and going to junkyard to look at a 92 they have there but it’s a mess.Nothing left but wires on it so I keep going.Where is the start?Yes I read that cranking too much washes away cylinder walls and leaves gas if I have been doing this does this mean I have lowered my compression below 90 and that’s why it won’t start? Reason I ask is because it says squirt oil in spark plug hole to raise compression so I was thinking maybe I washed my compression away with gas and now don’t have enough to start! Sorry sounds stupid but I think I’m right to a certain extent. Maybe? I honestly don’t think it’s a fuse link because I could see them and they look ok. Not burned.Unless one is blown open any way to check for open fuse links? That’s why I was just going to replace them.

Nss does it supposed to have 12v on those blue red wires? What a lot the blue yellow wires on the other connector from the nss switch? Is the 12v come on with key on stay on or does it come on 2 3 sec like the fuel pump?Hanging not connected am I supposed to have voltage key on or off if so how long will it be there?