Ignition tumbler?????

Hey all. I'm new to the site, so I hope this will post in the right section. This morning my 83 5.0 would not start. I cannot even get the ignition tumbler to turn. It is acting like I have the wrong set of keys (I don't). I just drove the car yesterday without problems. I tried the "key jiggle", my other set of keys, and pushing the key release button on the bottom of the steering column while attempting to turn the key. Any ideas how to fix it without peeling the entire column apart? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!:shrug:
 
:bang: Maybe I am thinking about this all wrong - Is there a switch on the clutch pedal that needs to sense that the clutch is pushed in before it will let the ignition switch turn??? I always push in the cluch to start, so I don't even know if the car would have started without it being pushed in. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
suburbanfireman said:
:bang: Maybe I am thinking about this all wrong - Is there a switch on the clutch pedal that needs to sense that the clutch is pushed in before it will let the ignition switch turn??? I always push in the cluch to start, so I don't even know if the car would have started without it being pushed in. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
That clutch pedal switch is electrical - it keeps the crank signal from reaching the starter solenoid if you dont press the pedal. You should be able to turn the ignition lock without pushing the clutch pedal.
 
OK - Thanks. I needed to narrow down my options. I guess I will try to call a locksmith tomorrow. I'm hoping that he can get the ignition to turn to RUN - then I can replace the whole thing. According to the Chilton Manual I will need to pull the steering wheel, drill out some rivets, and then break a pin to remove the tumbler if I can't get the key to turn to the RUN position.
 
That's just weird that it's so stuck. I know on my 88, I sometimes have to turn the wheel pretty hard in the opposite direction of the lock (when the wheel it locked) to disengage the wheel lock and be able to turn the key. If your column has any slop in it, lift up, down and side to side while trying to turn the key (this applies more if you have tilt, but isnt a bad idea for any car).

If I had to drill it out, I'd probably punch the lock and get it to the run position and just remove the cylinder like normal (pushing the set-pin in with a drift, as we normally do). It'd save some locksmith time - I dont know what it costs for one to come out and fix a situation like that.

Good luck.
 
It looks like most of the steering column internals are pop metal. Do you mean pounding a flat screwdriver into the cylinder and twisting it? I was never a car thief, so I'm not sure what you mean. Will I end up breaking a bunch of non-replacement lock cylinder parts? Sorry to be a pain about all the questions, but I really want to drive this car while the weather is nice!
 
suburbanfireman said:
It looks like most of the steering column internals are pop metal. Do you mean pounding a flat screwdriver into the cylinder and twisting it? I was never a car thief, so I'm not sure what you mean. Will I end up breaking a bunch of non-replacement lock cylinder parts? Sorry to be a pain about all the questions, but I really want to drive this car while the weather is nice!
It sounds like the locksmith will be your best bet with the least chance of breaking anything.

Good luck.
 
I just went through this the other day. Take roughly a 1/4" drill bit and start drilling where the key would go. Keep an eye on the hole. You will just barely drill past the deepest part where the key would slide into. There will be a slot left at the back of the hole you just drilled where a standard screwdriver will fit. Put the screw driver in and turn. If you are on a budget just leave it this way or at least it will get you to the dealership where you won't have to pay for a service trip.