iIdling problem after procharger installation

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derekbollan

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#1

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Idling problem after procharger installation

Idling problem after procharger installaion After installing a procharger and intercooler on my 2002 mustang Gt, my car would start and run just as long as u keep on the throttle. The second u left off the gas it would not idle it would just die. I adjusted the idle up and it will idle at 600 rpms but every once in awhile it wants to idle up to like 1,500 rpms. the charger has only been on for 2 days. Does anyone know what the problem might be r why it is doing that?

 

Dan_Soprano

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#2

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• #2

derekbollan said:

Idling problem after procharger installaion After installing a procharger and intercooler on my 2002 mustang Gt, my car would start and run just as long as u keep on the throttle. The second u left off the gas it would not idle it would just die. I adjusted the idle up and it will idle at 600 rpms but every once in awhile it wants to idle up to like 1,500 rpms. the charger has only been on for 2 days. Does anyone know what the problem might be r why it is doing that?

Click to expand...

Did you change TB's or mess with the Throttle Position Sensor??

 

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showstopper2

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Aug 29, 2005

#3

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what injectors, MAF, and tune are you running? also what plugs and gap?

 

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dhg1667

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#4

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blim blim blim blah blah DJ boy is on a roll

 

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derekbollan

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I did not do anything with the throttle body or position sensor. I am running 42 lb injectors, svt focus pump, NGK-TR6 plugs gapped at .035, pro-m blow through MAF.

 

Dan_Soprano

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humm, some sort of vacuum leak somewhere maybe?

 

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derekbollan

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Yea i had vaccum problems, but i spent awhile fixing them. i can almost swear i have all of them fixed, but i did find a hose yesterday that was being sucked flat, so i had to put a hard line in its place.

 

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derekbollan

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#8

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I had a guy tell me that it may just take my computer a few days or few hundred miles to get used to the setup. when it gets used to it then it will idle.

 

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showstopper2

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#9

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don't count on it... you will most likely need a custom chip not just for the idle but for the AFR before you stomp the loud pedal. blowers can't just be slapped on and go... be nice if it were that easy.

 

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derekbollan

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#10

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The chip has had a custom tune on a car identical to mine from the guy i bought the charger from. The AFR is alright by my gauge

 

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showstopper2

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#11

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what gauge are you using for AFR? please don't say the autometer rich lean one....is the chip your using from the same year and computer code as yours? you need to understand that blow through meters are just not as accurate and Procharger cars tend to have surging issues until they warm up especially. I would recommend a custom tune and chip on the dyno for your car specifically. this is the only way to truely attempt to fix driveability and idle issues specific to your car and combo.

 

forpit2000gt

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#12

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I'll bet you take it to a tuner and with a few keystrokes it idles fine. there is more than just a/f in play here.

 

ProCharger GT

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#13

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i would be willing to bet your MAF is the problem - I had the exact problem you described, only my car wouldn't even turn over with the Pro-M Univer. I ran the stock MAF until SCT came out with theirs, I haven't run it on the new setup but I would try putting the old MAF back on and see if it will work. I have heard nothing but horror stories from Univer MAF's. Go SCT

 

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derekbollan

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#14

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I am taking it to a dyno shop next week sometime, so i am sure i will find something out then. If the tune don't do it (which i am sure it will) than i am goin to check my MAF.

 

ProCharger GT

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#15

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oh are you running the chip that procharger included with the package? that chip is garbage.

 

CTGrey02

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#16

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A. Get a custom tune for YOUR car, every car's different, getting to the dyno is imperative, dont beat on it till your tuned.

B. Get rid of the TR-6's. They're not threaded properly for our heads and suffer from spark blow out when used with them. NGK BR7EF's gapped at 30 are the plugs you want to use.

C. Although it'd have little to do with idle quality at this point, have you changed out your fuel pump yet?

D. Clean off your computers connectors better where the chip contacts. The chip should at least get you to the dyno shop with out many problems, I wouldnt beat on it with that chip, but it's at least a baseline tune to make the car driveable. With out a clean surface to mate it to the ECU however, your going to have stalling and idle quality issues. Clean it off with alcohol and a light sand paper to get all the crap off the connectors.

 

forpit2000gt

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CTGrey02 said:

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B. Get rid of the TR-6's. They're not threaded properly for our heads and suffer from spark blow out when used with them. NGK BR7EF's gapped at 30 are the plugs you want to use.


can you explain the thread thing please??

Click to expand...

 

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derekbollan

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#18

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Yes i have the SVT focus pump and i believe the computer is cleaned adequately. The car is idling better today , but still not as good as it should. I will see what the tune shop can do. Thanks so much for the info.
I will keep yall posted.

 

CTGrey02

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#19

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If I remember correctly they're threaded deeper than the BR7EF's. While they have the same thread pattern, the thread length wasnt correct. Do a couple searches on the various mustang sites involving TR-6's. Respected tuners like Tim Barth usually recommend the BR7EF's or thier Autolite equivalents for FI applications.

 

forpit2000gt

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#20

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doesn't matter about the thread depth, they will bottom out the same. their may be something about spark blowout, but I would think it could get worse with the
BR7EF's. they are two steps colder is probably why used for FI as opposed to one step colder TR6's. I would be interested to read why BR7ef's over the TR6 if not just because it is a colder plug.