Engine I'm gonna fix this thing if it kills me!

The O'Reilly distributor you mention, did it happen to be a re-branded rebuilt? It wouldn't be the first one I've heard has been bad out of the box. Since the PIP doesn't act up unless hot and tests just fine, the rebuilder changes a few bushings, cleans it up, slaps a new cap & rotor on it along with their sticker, and puts it on sale. Just waiting to piss-off the next guy who winds up with it. You're best off replacing the PIP yourself with a decent quality new part, it's not hard to do for someone mechanically inclined.

The next time it acts up, check the fuel pressure at that exact moment to make sure it's within range (about 32psi at idle, 39psi with the vacuum line disconnected from the regulator). The nose-dive at wide-open-throttle often indicates a fueling problem - your foot and the throttle body give it more air, but the injectors don't keep up with the fuel it then needs.

Also check if you have spark. If you don't have spark, it's very possible the PIP again and I'd toss the distributor back at O'Reilly for replacement #2. You could also throw a bag of ice on the distributor to cool it off faster and see if it starts sooner.

On a 25 year old car it could be lots of electrical gremlins or corroded wires that heat up and lose connection but the most common in our cars remain the TFI and PIP.

Yeah, cars rarely do us the favor of breaking down right on the driveway. A fuel pressure gauge can be rented from AutoZone or O'Reilly's and it's about as hard as checking the tire pressure - at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. And checking for spark is as easy as carrying an old spark plug with you. Both of those items are small & portable and I'd carry them with me at all times with a car that's been acting stupid. If you can determine which is missing - fuel or spark - it'll be easier to determine where to focus. Plus while it's cooling off to restart you'll have some time on your hands to diagnose as long as you have a few tools with you. Not suggesting you rebuild the engine at the side of the road, just pick up a little data to keep it from happening again.

One thing for sure is it's not the MAF - the car will run with that even completely disconnected, just in open-loop. Try disconnecting it next time if you want, but I wouldn't keep replacing it (that gets expensive). If it turns out to be fuel pressure, change the fuel filter and consider changing the pump. If it turns out to be spark, replace the distributor again and consider a replacement ignition coil (especially if the car has an MSD or the original coil).

While it's an annoying and sporadic, it's not hard to diagnose, and should be easy enough to repair once you've diagnosed it. If it's truly heat-related, which it sounds like it is, you can probably get it to act up just letting it idle on the driveway for an hour or two if you prefer to work at home. When my PIP was bad I could easily get it to stall out and refuse to restart just idling for 15-20 minutes.