Im scared to change my plugs

Jsun3701 · Dec 5, 2006

I have 54K on the stock plugs and after reading all the terrifying posts about changing out plugs I am not sure if I want to do it. I bought 8 of the AGSF 22C (longer threads) plugs from the dealer. What are the safety precautions step by step. I read threads where people say "I am using Teflon tape" and threads where it sounds like everyone did everything right (meaning torqued correctly) but still had a blowout. Id like to hear from some people who have changed out there plugs successfully, and what precautions they took.

Kilgore Trout · Dec 5, 2006

You should be scared a lot of things can go wrong and it could get expensive.

However, you should still attempt it. Just do your research first and take your time.

I am liking your plug choice. You went with copper one step colder than stock with the latest recommended thread type.

Do not apply anything to the plug threads, put them in dry. I used to recommend light coat of copper based anti-seize but now I recommend dry threads.

When you change them here are some tips:
-be very careful not to strip COP retaining bolts
-blow or vacuum out spark plug wells before you pull the plugs
-make sure engine is stone cold
-use a locking 9-12" socket extension to avoid issues with stuff getting stuck in the wells
-post pics of your old plugs so we can read them for you
-gap carefully to .054 using a feeler or wire guage and NOT a coin style
-carefully start the threads on the new plugs with your hand only
-torque to 15 ft/lbs or 1/16th turn past snug
-clean and condition your COP boots with 303 Aerospace Protectant or silicone spray or both
-use a dab of silicone dielectric grease (tune up grease) on the spring end where it connects to the plug

Jsun3701 · Dec 5, 2006

Roger.
Ok so I will use a rag and canned air to clean out the plug wells and threads. hand tighten, and torque to 13 ftlbs on a stone cold engine. Treat the boots with silly cone.

triggz · Dec 5, 2006

Isnt it 15 INCH pounds? You only turn it with the drive a TINY 1/16th turn after youve done what you can with your fingers.

I disagree with teflon tape usage as well. If anything, I put a tiny dab of dielectric grease on the threads, perhaps particularly if you feel grit in the threads while turning them in.

I have always used Autolite 764s and now 103s (1 step colder) for nitrous.

Kilgore Trout · Dec 5, 2006

Its 13-17 foot pounds of torque on the plugs. The torque on the COP retaining bolts is in inch pounds. The exact number is on the Bullitt Archive in the plug change page.

jstreet0204 · Dec 5, 2006

Do not put teflon tape on plugs. I don't know where that came from but it is wrong. Most plugs you by now already have a coating on them, but the coating is only good for one install. If you take them out and put them back in for any reason, you should use a very thin coating of antisieze.

Jsun3701 · Dec 5, 2006

The torque for the COP is 89 inch pounds according to the Bullit Archive, page.

triggz · Dec 5, 2006

I dont know about you guys but my COP bolts take about 30 lb ft to thread in and they squeek like hell.

Kilgore Trout · Dec 5, 2006

I put anti-seize on my GT's COP retaining bolts and it made a huge difference. These bolts seem to tend to be very dry and prone to stripping.

I put anti-seize on almost every bolt...

BurningRubber · Dec 5, 2006

The sad part is this engine is ultra easy to change the plugs on. Its total BS that anyone that does it has to worry about the aftermath.

Kilgore Trout · Dec 5, 2006

BurningRubber said:
The sad part is this engine is ultra easy to change the plugs on. Its total BS that anyone that does it has to worry about the aftermath.

It is easy after you have done it once. There are many mistakes that can be made and many things that can go wrong. IMHO the only here is giving the guy a hard time about his being cautious about the work he is about to perform. No offense...

BennyBlown2v · Dec 5, 2006

It's pretty easy, just take your time. Grab a torque wrench and do the 1/16th turn or 13-17ftlbs WHICHEVER COMES FIRST. It's really that easy, just dont drop anything down in there, and make sure everything is clean BEFORE you pull the plug out or crap might fall in there.

Dusstbuster · Dec 5, 2006

I too was scared to swap out plugs when I first attempted it, and my plug wells had enough sand and crap in them to make a sand castle with. Just make sure you vacuum them well and then blow tons of compressed air into the wells and then vacuum AGAIN before you take the plugs out, that way the least amount of crap will get in the cylinder. By the time we got done with the manifold install we'd swapped plugs 4x and it was second nature. Just be sure you torque them properly and have everything as clean as possible.

It also wouldn't hurt to recheck them every month to be sure they aren't loosening up at all...a little preventative mantinence and regular checkups will help prevent an expensive malfunction from happening.

It is important to note that you HAVE to make sure the engine is cold before you swap out plugs. Trying to pull them out on a warm engine is a surefire way to strip the threading out and will cost you tons of $$$ to replace possibly. Warm Aluminum = bad.

007 · Dec 5, 2006

I was thinking about this - I bet it would be dead cheap to have ford do the plug swap. Then if something gets stripped etc. they have to deal with it. Plus the ford idiot will have done plugs 100s of times, vs me whos never done it. Then again he might be an idiot and he doesnt give a **** about my car.

I dunno? Think I'll buy the BBK intake and new plugs in the spring. Do it in one shot.

To recheck them every month havent you to disconnect your intake etc? Thats a PITA i don't feel like doing...

streethorse · Dec 5, 2006

Ive owned about 15 different cars and done countless sparkplug changes,
never once have I even used a tourque wrench to tighten them..... not to say
its not a good idea, but I had never heard of sparkplug blowout till I got on
Stangnet. Now I too am parinoid about my next change and will take the
precautions to avoid blowout, I have a tourqe wrench just never use it.
For those of you who dont have a compressor yet like me what I do is get 2 straws from Mcdonalds and put them together to make 1 long straw, stick it down
in the spark plug well, close your eyes and blow, do that a few times and it will
do the job... by the way I want a compressor for christmas.

Dusstbuster · Dec 5, 2006

007 said:
I was thinking about this - I bet it would be dead cheap to have ford do the plug swap. Then if something gets stripped etc. they have to deal with it. Plus the ford idiot will have done plugs 100s of times, vs me whos never done it. Then again he might be an idiot and he doesnt give a **** about my car.

I dunno? Think I'll buy the BBK intake and new plugs in the spring. Do it in one shot.

To recheck them every month havent you to disconnect your intake etc? Thats a PITA i don't feel like doing...

You should be able to do the plugs without removing anything. It might be sort of a tight fit in some of the wells but you should still be able to do it.

hotmustang331 · Dec 5, 2006

meh, I dont use torque specs on anything....well except head bolts, the main bolts, and maybe the cam holders(or whetever they are called). Everything else is by feel, and iv NEVER had any problems. 55,000 miles.

Plug changes are very simple and the biggest thing to worry about is stripping the darn COP bolts heads...those things SUCK. A few of mine are darn near rounded off, so they are not very tight

sgarlic · Dec 5, 2006

I think that's pretty irresponsible to encourage people to not use torque wrenches. If you don't, you have no one to blame but yourself (read: NOT FORD) if something gets ****ed up.

How would you feel if the people who assembled your car didn't bother using torque wrenches, or just "eyeballed" tolerances instead of measuring them? How do you expect your car to stay in one piece if you refuse to follow even the simplest guidelines set forth by the people who BUILT the car?

"I've never used anything but rubber hose for fuel line. There's no difference."

"You don't need to compress the caliper pistons before you install the new pads."

"Oil brand/weight doesn't matter, oil is oil."

"I've never used a torque wrench."

"I've used Fram oil filters forever."

This kind of primative thinking is exactly why automotive help forums are so popular; because people stuck back in the old days of ghetto car maintenance are starting to develop problems on cars that actually require more than a ratchet and some duckbills to maintain.

Good luck to the thread starter in changing your plugs. Just buy a 30 dollar ****ing torque wrench and use it, and you'll be fine. Recheck the torque on the plugs after a few hundred miles.

Jsun3701 · Dec 5, 2006

Thanks for the input guys. Im buying a torque wrench this weekend.

Roxstang · Dec 5, 2006

Jsun3701 said:
Thanks for the input guys. Im buying a torque wrench this weekend.

One of the best investments you can make for your Stang.

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