Im so excited!!!!!!!!!!!!

88stangmangt · Jul 19, 2004

After what seemed like years (months actually) i am takeing my motor to a machine shop within the next week to get it cleaned(me and my father are then gonna put it back together).................i have heard some people say they can hot tank it????????????????? what do they do????? i need my rods cleaned as well as the piston heads.............. do you guys think i should get a set of arp rod studs too.?????????? they are only like 80 dollars but anyway what kinda things should i have the shop do while they have it? i cant wait hopefully by next spring these kids around here with just flows and a mid-pipe will see what a real stang is. also should i paint the block with engine paint???????? does it last? fade out??? my car is maroon red........... so i wanted ford production blue for the block....and i plan to eventually get afr 185cc alum heads but for now i will go with thumpers ported heads since i can use them with my custom cam.

p.s. bbks new intake has hit the street's and it looks pretty sweet for 500 with nice big rails and everything..................i might look more into that for my combo as well.

donkey_punch · Jul 19, 2004

and you just can't hide it.

sorry i had to do that.

88stangmangt · Jul 19, 2004

donkey_punch said:
and you just can't hide it.

sorry i had to do that.

HELL NO!!!!!!!!!

RustyFox · Jul 19, 2004

Get it balanced if it is not already. New rod bolts would be a good idea, but you will want to have the big ends of the rods resized, to make sure everything is aligned properly. Speaking of aligned, have it align bored or honed (some shops do both, some only one or the other) to free up some friction in the mains.
Hot tanking consists of dunking your stuff in caustic soda. Basically, it removes most of the dirt, oil, grime, lead, etc. from all the nooks and crannies. MMMM, nooks an crannies. Sorry, lost my focus. Main studs are usually a good idea. If main studs are installed, you almost have to have it align bored or honed. You would be foolish not to. If you have I beam rods, it's a good thing to grind the parting cast smooth to remove possible stress risers and a tiny bit of weight. Do this before the rods are balanced, please. All this work ain't cheap, but blowing up a motor is even more expensive. I had all of the above done to my old race motor, and never had a problem, even when I over-revved the piss out of it.

88stangmangt · Jul 19, 2004

well i dont want to dump tons of $$$ into the rebuilt stock lower i was just gonna get them to clean up the rods/piston heads and block then put it together in my back yard with my father............ once i put it together they can balance it right? i wasnt gonna get it honed since i am only re-useing my stock rods/crank with a standard rebuild kit. but i know it needs to be honed.

RustyFox · Jul 19, 2004

88stangmangt said:
well i dont want to dump tons of $$$ into the rebuilt stock lower i was just gonna get them to clean up the rods/piston heads and block then put it together in my back yard with my father............ once i put it together they can balance it right? i wasnt gonna get it honed since i am only re-useing my stock rods/crank with a standard rebuild kit. but i know it needs to be honed.

"once i put it together they can balance it right?"

no.

If you expect to push 500 hp through this engine, then you darn well better have some of this done, or it won't last long.

Ray III · Jul 19, 2004

get some DupliColor engine enamel paint, Ford Blue (not Old Ford Blue though I guess it don't matter). It is really drippy but just get it on there, you MUST have the block/heads completely free of oil, and you can chase after all the drips with your finger after each coat. It'll look great. 3 coats. Probably need 2 or 3 cans

Ray III · Jul 19, 2004

and your engine should be alright for about 400 horse if you just reassemble the stock bottom end, BUT a hone is necessary fr rings to seat and you must be CLEAN.

battyice · Jul 19, 2004

Be aware that if you have the block "hot tanked" you'll need to replace the cam bearings. Unless you happen to have the tool required to do this, have the machine shop do it.

89CopCoupe · Jul 20, 2004

donkey_punch said:
and you just can't hide it.

sorry i had to do that.

Just don't show the cops what a real Mustang is

5.0 HOtrain · Jul 20, 2004

88stangmangt said:
well i dont want to dump tons of $$$ into the rebuilt stock lower

But you expect to push 550hp through it

88stangmangt · Jul 20, 2004

5.0 HOtrain said:
But you expect to push 550hp through it

i meant the stock bottom end and i have seen tons of articles with people running 10's at 500 hp with a stock long block never outta the frame from ford so all that fancy $hit isnt needed.just a great re-build....and a strong foundation.(plus i dont plan to keep the stock 302 bottom for very long anyway........... so if it goes it goes....)

cjman15 · Jul 20, 2004

donkey_punch said:
and you just can't hide it.

sorry i had to do that.

I was just abotu to do that too. lol

5.0 HOtrain · Jul 21, 2004

88stangmangt said:
i meant the stock bottom

So did I

88stangmangt said:
so all that fancy $hit isnt needed.

Man, why did I waste my money

88stangmangt said:
just a great re-build....and a strong foundation

Same thing as the top quote. Bottom end is the foundation to ANY motor. I dont care how much power it makes. If the rotating assembly or block itself cant handle it then big deal, I dont care how hizoot you're top end or blower are. They are sweet with a broken crank or split block.

Dont get me wrong, sbf's make that power all the time with a blower, just dont expect them to last (wich you dont I gather from you're last post). I'm just a fan of doing it right, and doing it once. Cheaper in the long run. Good luck.
mike.

88stangmangt · Jul 23, 2004

ooh ya i agree but as soon as this short block goes in im building a 331 or 347 with forged internals so just a little use on the track and street is all it will be for.

Im so excited!!!!!!!!!!!!

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