• Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-

*#$@&ing Control Arm Bolts!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Shiroelex
  • Start date Start date Feb 12, 2009
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
Founding Member
Aug 23, 2001
728
1
27
Westland, MI
Feb 12, 2009
#1
  • Feb 12, 2009
  • #1
I cannot for the life of me get the lower control arm bolts out! I have everything removed but those! I've bashed them with my BFH for an hour and haven't even gotten a millimeter of movement out of them. What in god's name do I have to do to get these bastards out? I really don't want to have to start cutting stuff, so if anyone has any other secrets or ideas, please let me know before I lose my mind!
 
D

Dragstr05

New Member
Dec 21, 2004
643
1
0
Stafford VA
Feb 12, 2009
#2
  • Feb 12, 2009
  • #2
Are they loose and you are trying to get them to slide out of the hole? You didnt specify front or rear, but is there any weight/push/pull on the control arm? If so, try moving it around to take any pressure off the bolt. If you have done everything and it just wont move, you'll need to heat it up with a torch.
 

mustang50v8

Member
Feb 4, 2003
548
3
18
847 Chicago Burbs
Feb 13, 2009
#3
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #3
righty tighty lefty loosey?


i only say it cause i was dumb enough to do that once.
 

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
Founding Member
Aug 23, 2001
728
1
27
Westland, MI
Feb 13, 2009
#4
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #4
Sorry, I forgot to specify in my rage last night. These are the rear lowers, and I have the nuts off of them already. The bolts just won't slide out of the arms themselves.
 

paintballpyro1

Active Member
Jan 6, 2004
118
1
29
Michigan
Feb 13, 2009
#5
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #5
Good luck, i spent 2 days trying to get mine off. I used a impact gun and just zip the bolt back and forth hoping the would snag on something and then spraying the crap outta the bolt from every angle possible and even between the rubber to get to the metal sleeve that most likely rusted. Then i just kept beating the bolt back and forth for a couple hours, hit the bolt like 10-15times on one side and then 10-15 on the other side and just keep going back and forth and at some point it will start moving hopefully, just takes ALOT of time. Again good luck it is not fun at all

o yea make sure you buy new bolts afterwards.
 

Flghtmstr1

Member
Mar 31, 2005
572
4
19
Springfield, PA
Feb 13, 2009
#6
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #6
I remember these were a PITA when I did my control arms, but there are two tricks that make the job a lot easier. One is to make sure the bolt doesn't have any shear stresses that would make hang up on anything. In other words, use a jack to take pressure off that joint so that the bolt can move around more easily. The second trick is to rotate the bolt with a ratchet as you hammer it out. It's not really that hard, now that I think about it. The first bolt I tried took an hour, but once I figured out the tricks, the second bolt only took 5 minutes or so. Good luck!
 

paintballpyro1

Active Member
Jan 6, 2004
118
1
29
Michigan
Feb 13, 2009
#7
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #7
Thing is he is from michigan like i am and with how they salt the roads and everything they get pretty rusted. When you finally get them off make sure you use some anti-seize on the sleeve so hopefully it doesnt happen again.

Actually i could have given you hand since im going to be somewhat in the area this weekend except im kinda busy this weekend with some stuff going on.
 

96SCstang

New Member
Jul 22, 2006
228
0
0
novi, MI
Feb 13, 2009
#8
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #8
yea living in the salt belt sucks!! i have to deal with that kind of crap every day at my shop.
 
D

darkside03gt

Member
Feb 19, 2007
851
8
18
Sacramento CA
Feb 13, 2009
#9
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #9
Try using a big c-clamp and maybe a spring compressor, I say that because you want to make sure you dont have any shear pressure on the bolt. Get yourself 1 either a deep well socket that is larger then the bolt head or a piece of metal pipe. Use the c-clamp to press the bolt out. I recomend you get one that has a squared off end where the handle is so you can use a wrench on it since the handles that come with most clamps will bend over time. Once you get it moving it should come right out. If the clamp bottoms out before the bolt is willing to come out on its own use a 3/8 or 1/2in 3in long extension to push it the rest of the way out. Pressing out bolts usually results in less damage then beating the crap out of a bolt with a hammer.
 

Flghtmstr1

Member
Mar 31, 2005
572
4
19
Springfield, PA
Feb 13, 2009
#10
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #10
I live in the rust belt too...our winters are just as bad as yours.
 

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
Founding Member
Aug 23, 2001
728
1
27
Westland, MI
Feb 13, 2009
#11
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #11
So I gave it another crack tonight....

I drowned the thing in PB'laster for a while, then torched it until it was glowing red. I bashed at it with a 12lb sledge hammer for a while, and got about a quarter of an inch out of it. About fed up with smashing on it, I went up to Harbor Freight and bought a reciprocating saw and a pack of extra blades. 5 blades later, I have a chopped up bolt, and no progress. I ended up gashing the hell out of my hand and giving up. This is really starting to piss me off. I haven't even got one end of one arm off yet! I'm really worried, since the front bolts on the body have like no room to mess with.

There's no tension on the arms at all, because the springs are out, the shocks are off, and the axle is on a big jack. I'm quickly approaching my wit's end...
 

deftsound

Please ask me how much my supercharger cost
Apr 6, 2004
945
1
39
Texas City TX
Feb 13, 2009
#12
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #12
oh its nice living in texas
 

evil281

New Member
Jan 6, 2008
276
0
0
Arizona
Feb 13, 2009
#13
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #13
no salt here no rust either, just a harsh 70 degree chill in the winter, oh to be rust free
 

superstang01

Active Member
Oct 11, 2006
448
9
29
Kingston, On, Canada
Feb 13, 2009
#14
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #14
i had this same prblm while doing my friends....i ended up just getting a screw driver and hit the **** out of it until it pushed the bolt through......use lots of wd40 lol
 
M

mijo_latino

Active Member
Apr 16, 2004
179
1
29
Canton, Michigan
Feb 13, 2009
#15
  • Feb 13, 2009
  • #15
cut-off wheels are your friend. I had to cut my struts off because the nut was seized. My front control arms had to be cut off too for the same problem your having, the bolt just bonds with that dumb sleeve. Michigan sucks for cars.
 

paintballpyro1

Active Member
Jan 6, 2004
118
1
29
Michigan
Feb 14, 2009
#16
  • Feb 14, 2009
  • #16
I wouldnt have cut the bolt, yea you only got 1/4in but you just keep working it back and forth for awhile and it would start to break free. Try getting a longer saw blade and cutting between the frame and the control arm and just cut the bolt off there if you can.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
3,501
28
119
Motor City
Feb 16, 2009
#17
  • Feb 16, 2009
  • #17
I have gotten really really lucky with that last few Mustangs I've had. They came right out. I feel your pain though. I've had parts cars, that I could NOT get them out of. So, I just cut the upper and lowers to get the axles out.
 

squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,258
360
164
Joplin, Missouri
Feb 16, 2009
#18
  • Feb 16, 2009
  • #18
I had to cut the bolts off in my 92. It was horrible. Took us 2 days to get the susp installed in the rear b/c we couldn't get the old chit uninstalled. Take ur time and they will come out. If u get ticked, walk away for a bit.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,186
17,888
224
Massachusetts
Feb 16, 2009
#19
  • Feb 16, 2009
  • #19
I'm dealing with that right now. I took the rear axle out of my car but couldn't get these two bolts out. The bolts are rusted inside the sleeve solid. I've bashed it with a 10-pound sledge and soaked it in PB and nothing. The axle is out of the car so i have room to work.

I'm replacing the control arms so i'm just gonna hack them off. Thing is, the sleeve is HARD to cut. I've already burned through a pack of blades and haven't gotten them off.

Next is the grinder. If i were to be reusing these arms i'd need new bushings as i've trashed them and they are still attached to the axle.

BTW, bashing it with a 10pound slede only proceeded to start to distort the metal on the housing, so i stopped.


PS. I'm doing this on my '88. 21 years of rusting sucks!
 

squeak93

15 Year Member
Jun 2, 2005
2,258
360
164
Joplin, Missouri
Feb 16, 2009
#20
  • Feb 16, 2009
  • #20
Mine were rusted weird. They would spin, but not come out. We basked on them for a long time till we resorted to cutting. I too went through two things of blade, (12 each) So yea... Good luck.
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Can makes noises when driving poping
  • Creomod
  • Oct 14, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
17
Views
539
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Oct 19, 2025
Creomod
C
1965 Mustang Lower Control Arm Question.
  • chopper1876
  • Nov 9, 2024
  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
Replies
19
Views
830
1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- Dec 7, 2024
GOvert
G
Drivetrain Rear end clunk
  • seanmahoney
  • Oct 13, 2025
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
3
Views
391
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Oct 13, 2025
nickyb
R
Door Ajar issue
  • ryjack70ss
  • Jul 25, 2025
  • 2010 - 2014 Specific Tech
Replies
3
Views
234
2010 - 2014 Specific Tech Jul 25, 2025
Noobz347
Still need an Alignment?
  • from6to8
  • Jun 1, 2025
  • 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech
Replies
3
Views
268
1994 - 1995 Specific Tech Jun 2, 2025
AeroCoupe
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?