My MAF is for a NA engine, I gapped the plugs at .035, set the fuel pressure at 45lbs warm idle with vacuum off, only got a slight misfire then it cleared up, probably due to the 87 octane thats in the tank, its only got 1/8th of a tank left, i'll fill it up with 92 in the morning and hopefully i'll be set
Installed BD11 powerdyne, runs like trash... help!
- Thread starter 1993SSP
- Start date
tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
1993SSP said:
Unless I'm missing something about the Prochargers .. how can you run a N/A MAF with a blower? My setup ran like crap until I got a MAF calibrated for a supercharger.
Nutzy19
Member
Only Pro-M has a different tune for S/C or N/A and they are only slightly different. C&L has the same meter for both. Its should still run well even with the N/A tune just not to full potential. I know I just started an argument by mentioning C&L and Pro-M in the same thread soo.....FLAME AWAY!!tunedin302 said:
While Im at it
3.55 , 3.73 , 4.10's are all the BEST
Typhoon = Junk not junk.....
AND FINALLY... COWL HOODS ( how big is too big )
there.. covered them all.
Paul Perreca
New Member
- Mar 30, 2005
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tunedin302
I AM the law!!!
Hrmmm Can you give me more insight on changing the disks in the FMU? I swapping to the FMS 24lb injectors and getting rid of the 99 model cobra injectors i have. Ive got the fuel pressure a 45lbs warm idle with no vaccuum, plugs gapped at .035, still feels like the car is loading up or something and always backfires on the driver side, also i ran the car for about 10 min, the drivers side header heated up to a different color than the pass side. Fuel starvation ont he driver side causing lean condition?? Would a disk for 19 lb injectors cause me not to get enough fuel to the driver side?? Im wanting to get this fixed as close to being perfect before i go in for a dynotune. The backfiring is very minimal now and the car pulls like a MOFO, but im not taking any chances on damaging my motor tilll I get it right
If the order was placed for 19lb injectors, then the disc in the fmu should be for 19lbers as well. The disc is designed for fuel return pressure. If you've got the wrong match (injectors and disc) it will affect how the car operates, but to be honest, I can't say how as I've never mismatched the two. Good luck to you, and let us know.
ss93cobra said:
ss93 is on the right track has given some good information but I just wanted to point out that induction efficiency, amount of boost, and engine combination also need to be taken into consideration when selecting the correct ratio for the FMU. If you're not planning a custom tune then you should at the very least have a wideband 02 meter to get a good look at your Air Fuel Ratio. A 10:1 ratio FMU for car A with 19 lb injectors may or may not be the correct ratio for car B with 19 lb injectors. Knowing what your AFR is across the power band will save you a LOT of guesswork and allow you to tune correctly for your particular combo.
It's a great starting point... If they're not able to trim your fuel curves correctly with the disk you've chosen then they should be able to reccomend the correct ratio for you. Have you considered ditching the FMU all together in favor of a set of 42s along with the tune? These days, 42s can be had rather cheaply.
sounds like an excellent idea daggar, im on a budget right now, in reality i just need to know whats gonna get me a close tune as to not cause any damage to my engine,, the other stuff i will definitely keep in mind later on when i have more money o spend
Hmmm... the budget may be a problem... a custom dyno tune can cost you as much as $600 for chip and tune. Subsequent tunes (once you own the chip) will be at around the $100 range. That of course, is ontop of what you spend on injectors etc. It seems a shame to plop money down on a set of 24s and end up having to replace them again for your next mod.
