installed UPR boostmaster pipe, engine runs rough, loads up, pops etc.

[Foxfan88]

ok car drove perfect on the way to where i was working on it, i took all the dryer hose and vortech air box out.

opened the hole in the fender and got the power pipe installed.

got everything buttoned up and the car didnt run well. wouldnt idle. acted like the thottle screw wasnt holding the TB open enough. i had the battery unplugged so i took it for a short drive to see if the ECU needed to learn, i duno. car didnt get any better. would stutter and hesitate while driving, and occasionally pop when taking off.

took it back and figured the MAF wasnt working, i had to extend the harness some so maybe my wiring didnt work. i checked it an even re wired it and tested it the MAF is working.

i then got the car to idle. i had to turn the idle screw way up, its really holding the TB open its way past what it should be. i got it to idle pretty smooth, tryed rotating the MAF is changed some but it didnt help at all really.

the car smells SUPER RICH at idle. loading up harcore

i got it to idle well and took it for a drive. still stutters and pops and runs bad. a give it more pedal or WOT it wouldnt stutter.

we also noticed the car doesnt make ANY vacuum at idle, NONE, as soon as a push the clutch in to slow to a stop, once the engine idles down vacuum goes to zero, brakes get hard and engine wants to die.

we pulled over and checked vac lines, couldnt really look close but it felt like everything was plugged in, couldnt hear any hissing.

drove it back and we decided to take the vortech inlet tube out, take my MAF and filter and run the old dryerhose tube to the TB, to run the engine N/A totally bypassing the SC, to eliminate anything if it was related to the new pipe or something.

the engine N/A ran the same, still pulled no vacuum, ran rich and would rather die and stuggles to run, but there are no audible leaks, all the lines were plugged in. figured maybe a bad intake gasket but nothing happened for it to go bad.

one more thing, the vortech vent tube they have you run, from the filler neck though a filter into the airbox, since i dont have a box i let it hang down over by the fender with the filter still on so it would still vent the same.
we noticed that it pulled a slight vacumm through the tube, didnt seem right

it drove perfectly fine, when i went to start it up after the powerpipe installed and it started all this, never messed with and vac lines.

mechanically the engine is running fine, no cooling issues just runs pig rich and hesitates and mis fires under acceleration. and had to adjust my TB screw ALL the way out pretty much to get it to hold an idle and it still doesnt want to idle well.

my car never made much vacuum anyways. would pull 10 inches at idle. my cam is advanced so i duno if that would affect it at all. maybe the intake gasket was leaking and finally went real bad

just seeing if anyone had something to reccomend.

 

[Mike92GT]

When I had a 73mm MAF I had a lot of very similar drivability problems. I switched to a Pro-M 80mm MAF and it's run great ever since. The Vortech / C&L meters just don't work that great with a cam and / or blower.

 

[Foxfan88]

the maf has worked just fine for my cam and blower. all i did was add the intake tubing then this started. there are no bends before the maf just the filter i dont see how it could be getting jumbled or anything

 

[Foxfan88]

worked on it some earlier today.

some of my fittings on the back of my upper intake were loose, i tightened them up and replaced all the vac lines back there.

also ran a tube from the valve cover filler neck over into the power pipe (drilled a hole and put a big brass nipple in, its after the MAF but before the SC

got the car started, it will idle on its own alot better and actually pulls some vacuum, most of the time its 5 inches and under, but will flucuate up to around 10. its better than it was, pulling 0 inches at idle yesterday.

but the throttle screw is still adjusted WAY TOO FAR out to get it to idle.

we took some carb cleaner and started spraying. around the lines and lower intake gaskets, nothing seemed to do anything, but when i sprayed my fittings on the back of the upper plenum it kicked the idle up a tad bit.

so i am going to unhook the lines and take the fittings back out and put some silicone on them and put them back in, see if it will seal up.

but still you cant hear anything, and i dont think it barely leaking past the fittings would cause it to pull next to no vacuum at all. before it was pulling around 10 at idle which seems pretty low IMO, but the car ran great.

its nothing to due with the powerpipe i am pretty sure, i just cant think what could have went wrong seeing how i never touched any of those vac lines or messed with anything.

worse case i will pull the lower or something off and replace the gasket if i cant find it.

i also cleaned my MAF and IAC

any more ideas?

 

[Foxfan88]

worked on it again tonight, siliconed up the fittings on my typhoon and got all the lines on good and tight, every critical line is NEW and GOOD.

started the engine, it continued to run decent and would hold an idle. i sprayed the carb cleaner around again and there was no leaks it seemed like, but the engine still ran bad.

i took the K&N filter off to see if the filter was dirty or something, the engine ran ALOT better the idle kicked up to like 1500, i had the idle screw out really far to keep it running before.

pulled more vacuum at idle, about the same as it did before. i took it for a quick spin around the block with no filter., still hesitated and bucked when you went to drive it but the idle was good.

came back and put some more FP in it, was around 34-35, i put it at 40 or so. put another filter on i had and took it for a drive.

ALOT better, ran like it did before, ran abou perfect no stumbles. went out and romped on it, pulled reall good and ran fast. but the cheapie ebay filter i had on there came apart for some reason and was sitting just right where it was restricting the MAF for air. so it ran bad. i pulled part of the filter out and it ran good on the way back home.

its a cheap filter, i'll try to use it again, i jb welded the filter back together.

but would and crinkled up cone filter cause problems.

the powerpipe is SO CLOSE to the headlight we sort of mangled the K&N up getting it in there. its all smashed in a bit and twisted, not too bad.
maybe its just in a weird spot, its right behind the headlight up in the corner, could be starving for air or something.

but i am going to try some small things, try a difference MAF sensor see if it doesn anything. and buy a rubber 45* coupler to angle it down to a more open area where it can get more air and i can get the filter on easier without smashing it.